I'm currently planning on getting into the Land Rover world by buying a 2004 Discovery 2.

Could anyone give me some tips on what I should be looking for? (price/mileage/usage/etc.)

A few more questions:
Are there any specific problems to the 2004 that I should keep an eye out for?
Is 2004 a good discovery year, or should I look at another?
What kind of service should I expect to do on it after I get one?
Are there any good, cheap places to get accessories for it? (steel bumper/roof tent/roof rack, I live in America if that helps)
How many miles should I expect to get out of it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Hey there, I will let the other guys fill in the price mileage etc. info. I have my own issues with low mileage trucks (maybe they never ran that much so they were not used) The maintenance info and general condition is a big deal to me. There is a sticky section of the Discovery II line up page that is called how to and must reads. There is a wealth of knowledge that has been compiled. Take a look and take it to heart. It may just save you a headache or three. Good luck in your search.

 

Buying a D2 is insanity. Just browse the first 3-4 pages of this subforum & consider what you are getting yourself into. If you absolutely can't live without 1, I have a solid '03 here in TX I would be happy to sell to you. Buying a D2 from anyone short of OCD-paranoid is a serious gamble

 

Many in this forums have problems with their rovers. Some are no longer active or posting, most probably they dont have their discos already but if you have joined some Facebook groups, youll see more discos that are in good condition and running near or way over 250k miles. Mine has 170K and 154K miles and still in top shape. Maintained by myself already but before I hardly maintain it because it was expensive and I dont know how to do it but never abused.
I have a 2004 and if and runs well but with age and milage, there are plenty stuff that are failing or need to be changed. Head gasket, power steering and lines get corroded. Rear chassis rust, alternator and some few more. But mine is still original and just regular tuneup. Also, drive shaft failure happens often, mine 3rd this year but that with larger tires. The one with original size tires still have original drive shaft for 170K miles. Catalytic converter as well in high milage trucks. O2 sensors and frequent multiple codes, but those can be corrected easily.
Some are just often unlucky replacing parts and not putting them back in properly.
If you are handy and ready for a discovery then its a good truck and capable.

 

This site should have a sticky with this topic...

You can find all you need to know by searching here and on the data suckhole of the www.

People have their preferences but I'd buy an 04 next time. They last a long time if you take OCD care of them. Do as much work as you can, even if you've never done it before... lots of how to DIY videos on the EWE Tube. If you can't wrench then have a fat wallet and and very understanding supportive significant other.

There are a lot of good Rover specific Indy shops out there that do good work for a fair price. These are not complex machines. There are also a lot of shops out there with owners who see you as their next boat/vacation/alimony payment. Educate yourself to avoid the latter.

Get a code reader and take it with you when you shop for your truck.

If you'd rather just get in a drive and not worry about little things, get a Toyota.

 

Purchase an UltraGage. Google it.

'04 is my year of choice. But with any D2 ask for maintenance records. Ask if the head gaskets have been done. And check the front drive shaft. The originals did not have grease zerks on the front u-joints and can and will self-destruct.

These are good and capable trucks that require a lot of maintenance. So, like the others said be ready to work on it yourself or pay someone else to do so.

 

Unless you have a ship the size of the Titanic...and need an anchor...I'd pass...lol.


But, seriously...


If you are mechanically inclined and enjoy working on vehicles in your spare time or in some cases...all the time...this is just the vehicle for you. But, as mentioned...just do your homework and you'll find all the info to keep you moving here.


Brian.

 

You're definitely going to have to work on it. Most you'll have to drop some work into as soon as you buy it. Full service history is a great idea, but sometimes hard to find and you'll pay more for a truck that has that. Depending on condition and your own geographical location you can pay anywhere from $1500 to $4500. The most I would go would be $5000 for a truck in mint condition that comes with full service history.

Best bet on "cheap" aftermarket parts is Lucky 8 or the used section here on the forums. Me myself and I, I was in high school when I got my disco and couldn't afford parts so I bought myself a little welder and learned to get into fabrication. That will cost you the least in the long run.

If you maintain her to a tee she will go hundreds of thousands of miles. You'll put some work into her in that time, but she will last. Luckily the transmissions in these trucks are stout AND cheap. Unless you send your front driveshaft through the side of your trans it will last forever. The only real repeat problem you may have is head gaskets and oil pumps. I would replace my oil pump every 50-75k. As for head gaskets, I've never personally had any repeat issues. Mine were weeping when I got my truck. I replaced them and I've been fine since, and I used the cheapest available on ebay.

That's another thing. For factory replacement parts like coil packs, wheel hubs, and purge valves ebay is going to be your best bet. Those parts are way cheaper and the generic brands work just fine. The only parts I know this isn't true for are the O2 sensors. For those you have to replace with genuine Bosch and Amazon is the best price.

As for gas mileage... ouch. You do have to run premium. I've tried not multiple times, save yourself the trouble. Rough running, down on power, mpgs plummet. Running premium you're going to get 11.5-14. I stick pretty perfectly at 12.5 with little to no budge even when towing. I've tried everything under the sun to increase this number from intake, full exhaust including headders, ported and polished heads and intake, etc. None of it works. The only thing I've ever had change my MPG is larger tires (lost 1mpg exactly) and converting from a mechanical to an electrical radiator fan (gained 1mpg exactly).

If you take the leap, you will love the truck. Some days it will kick your ***. After three days of laying in the snow under the truck trying to replace a single d*mn sensor, without sleeves because your workspace is too tight, breaking the plug, hunting through the harness to find the correct wires to splice into, splicing into said wires, plugging everything back together, and the truck still not running, you will want to sell it. Then you'll replace the fuse box and it wills start right up. You'll take it for a drive and realize you were wrong and you still love your precious. MY precious. I wants it. I NEEDS it. I mean... they're great trucks. That was a crank position sensor by the way.

Anyway, if you have any more questions feel free to ask. I don't have all the answers, but I sure do have a lot of them. If you don't have any automotive work experience, this truck is a great way to learn it. By and large they're pretty simple to work on. When I bought mine I barely knew how to change my oil. Now I can tackle pretty much anything that doesn't involve opening the transmission up.

 

A Land Rover with 250k plus miles? Hilarious.

 

Buy a Land Cruiser.