Help with Buying Discovery 2
Haha not that easily. I'm still looking around the craigslists nearby to see if I want something cheap and beat or more expensive and easier.
The funny thing is for a vehicle that cost $35k and up new, we now quibble over whether paying 3000 for a crappy ride or 5k for a good one is the better deal.
Really, if you are going to own one of these long term, a few thousand dollars is nothing. Unless you do your own work, you should count on spending that much on maintenance every year and consider anything less a bonus to be saved for the future.
Really, if you are going to own one of these long term, a few thousand dollars is nothing. Unless you do your own work, you should count on spending that much on maintenance every year and consider anything less a bonus to be saved for the future.
Last edited by Dave03S; Apr 2, 2017 at 12:37 AM.
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I have owned Rovers for over 45 years, starting with a new 1963 series IIa, eventually another series IIa and later, a series III. Next, I had a Rover 3 litre sedan; much later, I had a 3500 sedan, several Rover 2000 sedans, and 2000TC sedans, and still more 3 litre sedans. Later, I had a 1995 Classic Range Rover all owned right here in the U.S.A. Now I have a 2004 Discovery; love it, though I have loved all my previously owned Rovers too.
Here is the best advice I can give to any potential Rover owner: ROVERS should be owned only by people who know what they are doing, when it comes to Rover mechanical work, and such owners should be willing and able to do all their own maintenance work, OR, they should be wealthy enough to have all such work hired out to people who know what they are doing when it comes to Rover maintenance work. If one doesn't heed this advice, they are in for a wealth of heartache and pain.
I have owned Rovers for over 45 years, starting with a new 1963 series IIa, eventually another series IIa and later, a series III. Next, I had a Rover 3 litre sedan; much later, I had a 3500 sedan, several Rover 2000 sedans, and 2000TC sedans, and still more 3 litre sedans. Later, I had a 1995 Classic Range Rover all owned right here in the U.S.A. Now I have a 2004 Discovery; love it, though I have loved all my previously owned Rovers too.
Here is the best advice I can give to any potential Rover owner: ROVERS should be owned only by people who know what they are doing, when it comes to Rover mechanical work, and such owners should be willing and able to do all their own maintenance work, OR, they should be wealthy enough to have all such work hired out to people who know what they are doing when it comes to Rover maintenance work. If one doesn't heed this advice, they are in for a wealth of heartache and pain.

I've been messing with LR's since I was 15 years old (40 now). I find them a breeze to work on vs other vehicles out there. I also strongly believe in the old saying "you get what you pay for". Sometimes that isn't always the case like my 99 D2 gem that I scored for 1500.0, but for the most part the cheaper D1/D2's out there are either going to be abused inside and out and are held together with duct tape, zip ties, and the cheapest things possible vs someone that was a LR enthusiast, or just someone that truly cares for their vehicles.
If you find one you're interested in locally I'd go look at it, and then ask the seller if it's okay if you setup a time/date to have it inspected. I'd recommend an independent LR shop, or LR Dealer. They'll have the proper scan tools & knowledge on what to look out for vs a typical auto shop.
D2 Weaknesses:
1. Stock cooling system with 190F thermostat (LR Grey 180F makes a HUGE difference) can cause the vehicle to overheat and cause damage to the head gaskets, sleeves, or even the block (the engine will tick loudly once warmed up).
2. Stock Front Driveshaft is known to go out due to no grease fittings & can take out your cats, transmission, or Transfer case if it breaks at highway speeds.
3. 3 Amigos (ABS, TC, and HDC Warning Lights) usually a bad wheel sensor, or issue with the ABS Modulator Solenoids
4. Sunroofs either INOP, clogged or broken drains
5. cracked bumper plastic
6. Depending on your Temp Zone the headliner can sag
That's about it, but also my two cents if you see any D2 with an aftermarket alarm, stereo, or DVD system I'd honestly pass it up in a heartbeat unless the rest of the vehicle is absolutely pristine! Most people that wire in stuff like that DO NOT know what they're tapping into or what it could affect down the line. All they care about is 12v power. I've seen DVD Headrest systems wired into the seat switches, and all sorts of crazy stuff that made other stock devices either go nuts or stop working all together. I've only had one D2 that had a bunch of aftermarket stuff added to it, and the first thing I did was spend an entire day removing all of it 100% and making sure all the original wiring was secured and taped.
I've owned Mitsubishi Gen 1 2DR/4DR Montero's, Jeep Wranglers, and a Jeep Grand Cherokee, but honestly every single LR I've ever owned from my 94 RRC to my 06 LR3 have all been extremely reliable, and they've always got me home no matter what.
The key to any LR treating you well is how you treat it. I know where to save money, or where to improve on the OEM hardware or setup. I never do a duct tape or zip tie fix, and I constantly check all the fluid levels before any long trip (just like a pre-flight check on a jet).
The Scangauge II (found at Auto Zone or online) has been an excellent tool for my D1 & D2's. I mount it below the center dash cup holder (I install the blank plate vs the cup holder), then route the wire to the OBDII port. It can be setup to display live RPM, Coolant Temp, Air Intake Temp, and Alternator Voltage readings, and it will list pending codes, set codes, and it can clear them. It's also small enough that it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb to be stolen or in the way. Most people on here use the Ultra Gauge, but I find it to bulky and I like that I can program the Scangauge II to illuminate green like the dash.
If you find one you're interested in locally I'd go look at it, and then ask the seller if it's okay if you setup a time/date to have it inspected. I'd recommend an independent LR shop, or LR Dealer. They'll have the proper scan tools & knowledge on what to look out for vs a typical auto shop.
D2 Weaknesses:
1. Stock cooling system with 190F thermostat (LR Grey 180F makes a HUGE difference) can cause the vehicle to overheat and cause damage to the head gaskets, sleeves, or even the block (the engine will tick loudly once warmed up).
2. Stock Front Driveshaft is known to go out due to no grease fittings & can take out your cats, transmission, or Transfer case if it breaks at highway speeds.
3. 3 Amigos (ABS, TC, and HDC Warning Lights) usually a bad wheel sensor, or issue with the ABS Modulator Solenoids
4. Sunroofs either INOP, clogged or broken drains
5. cracked bumper plastic
6. Depending on your Temp Zone the headliner can sag
That's about it, but also my two cents if you see any D2 with an aftermarket alarm, stereo, or DVD system I'd honestly pass it up in a heartbeat unless the rest of the vehicle is absolutely pristine! Most people that wire in stuff like that DO NOT know what they're tapping into or what it could affect down the line. All they care about is 12v power. I've seen DVD Headrest systems wired into the seat switches, and all sorts of crazy stuff that made other stock devices either go nuts or stop working all together. I've only had one D2 that had a bunch of aftermarket stuff added to it, and the first thing I did was spend an entire day removing all of it 100% and making sure all the original wiring was secured and taped.
I've owned Mitsubishi Gen 1 2DR/4DR Montero's, Jeep Wranglers, and a Jeep Grand Cherokee, but honestly every single LR I've ever owned from my 94 RRC to my 06 LR3 have all been extremely reliable, and they've always got me home no matter what.
The key to any LR treating you well is how you treat it. I know where to save money, or where to improve on the OEM hardware or setup. I never do a duct tape or zip tie fix, and I constantly check all the fluid levels before any long trip (just like a pre-flight check on a jet).
The Scangauge II (found at Auto Zone or online) has been an excellent tool for my D1 & D2's. I mount it below the center dash cup holder (I install the blank plate vs the cup holder), then route the wire to the OBDII port. It can be setup to display live RPM, Coolant Temp, Air Intake Temp, and Alternator Voltage readings, and it will list pending codes, set codes, and it can clear them. It's also small enough that it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb to be stolen or in the way. Most people on here use the Ultra Gauge, but I find it to bulky and I like that I can program the Scangauge II to illuminate green like the dash.
I've got an 04 and the best advice I got on this forum (which I read for about 4 months before purchasing one) was to go out and drive many and not buy the first one you come across.
In the process of driving them, looking under the hood, listening to the engines, and crawling around under them, it will start to become clear to you which ones were taken care of and which ones not.
Paperwork doesn't always tell the story. And Carfax can also be a great help. If someone is telling you that the vehicle was dealer serviced then it should show up on the Carfax.
Plan on spending your first year doing some maintenance items to the car. Disco Mike's high mileage sticky is a great place to start but really it's only a starting point. An 04 is now 13 years old and parts need replacing. Get used to that fact going into this and you won't be upset when it happens. Better yet be proactive and replace all of the wear and tear parts (battery, alternator, starter, brake pads & rotors, water pump, serpentine belt, front driveshaft, the entire cooling system). That will help to keep you from breaking down on the side of the road.
And really, it's not as bad as it seems if you break it up over the first year of ownership. Download the Rave manual and ask for help on here. You can find most everything you will need to know via the search function.
And if the thought of doing all of this yourself scares you a bit then a Disco isn't for you. Best to be honest with yourself up front or your regret will be large.
Also be careful. Early on it's just a 4x4 like any other in your mind. But somewhere in the first few weeks it hooks you. And then, well then you will be like the rest of us junkies on here. Hooked by the sweet sweet lure of the Disco!
In the process of driving them, looking under the hood, listening to the engines, and crawling around under them, it will start to become clear to you which ones were taken care of and which ones not.
Paperwork doesn't always tell the story. And Carfax can also be a great help. If someone is telling you that the vehicle was dealer serviced then it should show up on the Carfax.
Plan on spending your first year doing some maintenance items to the car. Disco Mike's high mileage sticky is a great place to start but really it's only a starting point. An 04 is now 13 years old and parts need replacing. Get used to that fact going into this and you won't be upset when it happens. Better yet be proactive and replace all of the wear and tear parts (battery, alternator, starter, brake pads & rotors, water pump, serpentine belt, front driveshaft, the entire cooling system). That will help to keep you from breaking down on the side of the road.
And really, it's not as bad as it seems if you break it up over the first year of ownership. Download the Rave manual and ask for help on here. You can find most everything you will need to know via the search function.
And if the thought of doing all of this yourself scares you a bit then a Disco isn't for you. Best to be honest with yourself up front or your regret will be large.
Also be careful. Early on it's just a 4x4 like any other in your mind. But somewhere in the first few weeks it hooks you. And then, well then you will be like the rest of us junkies on here. Hooked by the sweet sweet lure of the Disco!
I do not know what I'm doing with vehicles, which is part of the reason why I want a D2 because from what I've heard they are simple and easy to learn on. My father was a mechanic so I have access to all the tools I need and I'd have a wealth of knowledge on this forum if I ever got stuck.
Sounds as if you have a good attitude, know yourself well, know your abilities and inabilities for doing auto mechanic work, have good tool set, and, I assume, a good facility for doing any needed work. Hell, everybody with such an attitude, willing to learn what needs to be learned, and having what you have, must start sometime, so best of luck to you. However, too bad you didn't hang out around your father more, to have learned from him. That would have given you a big "head start," on what you now are contemplating.
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