One thing I do, if I'm too lazy to pull a plug to check for actual spark is to spray starting fluid into the air cleaner.

IF you have spark, you will at least get the "bumpity-bumpity-bump ... bumpity-bump" on any vehicle, as it actually runs for a minute.
If you don't, it's a real good indicator you have NO spark.

Let us know how it's going!

 

Everyone - thanks for all the feedback, advice, and input. I pulled a plug and verified spark, then reset the inertia fuel cut-off switch. I pulled the fuel pump relay and re-primed the oil in the engine. Put the fuel pump relay back in and she bucked on the second try, stated up and ran smooth on the third try. I think it must have been the inertia fuel cut-off switch.

Everything sounds a lot better post top end rebuild, and I also got rid of exhaust leaks at the manifolds by replacing those gaskets and studs.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

I had exactly the same issue when I had mine apart for head gaskets. In the end I had to take the truck to my rover guy here in Scranton. What the cause was in the end was the little signal wire going from the under hood fuse box to the engine ecu that tells the ecu to run the fuel pump. It must have been inside one of the main engine harnesses and all the moving around of wires harnesses caused a break in that particular wire. Ran new wire and fuel pump lit up, truck started right away. Might be one wire to check.

Rhys L.

 

Thanks again for everyone's help on this. The truck is starting up fine and running - also, sounds extremely smooth compared to before all the work - but I haven't had a chance to drive it much due to chasing down a small, weeping leak in the new oil pan gasket. The gasket wasn't sealing around one of the bolts, so I dropped the pan back off yesterday and used a small amount of RTV to shore things up. I let it set-up overnight and will be checking that tonight when I get home from work. Fingers crossed that it was that small of a fix.

The Service Engine Soon light (SES) came on and I'm also getting the following error codes that were not present before the work: P0130 and P0150. From what I can find, it looks like these might be related to either the O2 sensors, or "Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too High." I've used my Ultragauge to clear the codes and the SES light, and everything comes right back on at the next start up.

Also, my driver's side front window is not working. I had zero issues with it beforehand, but now it doesn't respond at all. That one has me scratching my head?

Any ideas on tracking down the window issue, and if the codes might be caused by the fuel pressure vs. the O2 sensors? I believe that the sensors should be replaced in pairs rather than one at a time, but I'm not 100% sure it that's correct?

 

Hi - O2 Sensors check your harness both upstreams seem to be having issues

Page 18-2-28 or page 485 ish

P0150 - Lambda sensor upstream catalyst bank 2 Drive cycle C:Signal implausible
P0130 - Lambda sensor upstream catalyst bank 1 Drive cycle C:Signal implausible.

As a heads up you can search the RAVE for ODB codes P#### (replace the #### with your code for example 0130) if it is in there the search will find it

 

Thanks, and thanks for the tip for RAVE as well. Didn't think to check there first.

Any ideas on what might have caused the window issue? Any chance disconnecting/reconnecting the battery (no sparks or issues like that) could have caused an easily-fixable gremlin to appear?

 

I would not think battery directly but fuse maybe. I have not had any windows issues so far.

 

You're really getting it good with this one. Keep the chin up, you'll solve.