My wife's 2008 LR3 has developed a morning start issue and I've read several threads but have not homed in on what to check. There are alot of suggestions from fuel pressure, to starter, to cam sensor, to crank sensor, to fuel sending units and gas caps... And beyond. I could find all of these things on my Disco II with a blindfold but though I have replaced some things in the engine bay on the LR3, it still intimidates me.

I replaced the battery last week and that did not solve then issue. This happens even when I externally charge the battery overnight. All subsequent starts that day are normal. No loss of power in any driving conditions except on first start. I'm hoping it isn't a fuel pump because I have already looked at what is involved there and it's a bigger deal than my Disco II for sure.

First start after sitting all night yields a weak start and sometimes the starter gear hangs on the flywheel. Second or third try yields a start but it runs very rough and low for a few seconds then springs to life. All subsequent starts that day are as normal. Wash. spin, repeat the next day with the weak start.

This is a very clean, rust free truck but i am going to start by looking at wiring to the starter and grounds.

I am a little dumb about electrical matters, and have a full on phobia of dropping the gas tank after I did that once on a Nissan Titan, but I'm open to all suggestions and will report all tests and results here.

I don't have a dealership anywhere near me and wouldn't go if I did, and none of the local shops will touch a Land Rover except the one that replaced my transmission (later found out it was the battery, not the transmission--3500 dollar loss). I'm the mechanic. If Momma gets stranded I'm up a creek without a paddle in a flood.

I also regretfully note that when the truck is at a half a tank or less, it often stutters then runs low as though it doesn't have enough fuel.

Please feel free to dispense suggestions!

 

Which engine? I have to assume the 4.4 V8.

A starter issue is very different than a starting issue. But it sounds like maybe you have both? If the starter is bad it will just click, not crank or crank and suddenly stop, then maybe kick back in again. The Denso starters are known for contacts that wear out. During extreme cold conditions I had issue. Replaced my starter a few weeks ago even though in this warmer weather it was never an issue. The starter was a lot easier to replace than expected, first time 1 hour.

But then you describe rough operating when it is running, so it does start. That can be a number of things. Do you have any codes?
• From what you describe, you certainly should have some. Normally I would suggest an PCV valve or vacuum leak, but then it would be operating poorly all the time after cool downs. But the LR3 4.4 is very sensitive to vacuum leaks.
• I would also consider taking a look at the MAF. You can visually inspect it and clean it (do NOT touch the wires with anything, use a spray). Visually the wires should appear clean, if they seem to have a white film or corrosion - replace.
• As for the fuel pump, it could be a fuel related issue but not necessarily the pump itself. As fuel pressure bleeds down over night its starting at low pressure thus on first start, needs to build. Then during they day there is enough residual fuel pressure that the issue is hidden. Maybe a weak fuel pump/clogged filter. You can test this on a morning when there would normally be an issue by cycling the key several times. So turn to start but dont start, wait two seconds for pump to cycle. Turn off. Then repeat that three or four times. If it starts and runs fine, its a fuel related issue resulting in weak pressure. If it starts and still runs rough, get out and smell if the exhaust is rancid with fuel. Being cold, you will smell some gas though. Normally one turn of the key should bring pressure up. And normally pressure should not drop significantly overnight. Bad internal check valve maybe? Fuel leak, etc.

Honestly, without codes its a bit of a guessing game though.

 

You're absolutely right, both about the engine and cides, and I have a GAPIID so that's easy to get. A quick scan showed no low fuel pressure or low voltage conditions. I'll post what I have.

I left the key in "on" for the first start about 15 sexinds and it had the weak, rumbly start. I turned it off and it fired right up. No problem s the rest if the day. I decided to warm up to the engine bay after I couldn't even see the starter from top, so I got a new gas cap, new NGK spark plugs, and fixed the brake light. The plugs in it were OLD. It immediately ran better with new ones. So I detailed the engine and cleaned the wheels, and piddled the rest of the day away until my wife noticed what I'd done.

I'll screen shot all codes and try the steps you gave me above in the morning. We had an SES Amber light about a month ago and the code was for the bank 1 cat; she drives short distances alot so we took it on the highway a few tinws and the code went away. That's why i was focused on the spark plugs.

Thank you for your advice.

 

Perhaps it's the relay for the starter in the fuse box under the hood. Or spark... When I redid mine this past summer it would crank and crank and crank but never go. Good luck I know how frustrating it can be...

 

Everyone - thanks for all the feedback, advice, and input. I pulled a plug and verified spark, then reset the inertia fuel cut-off switch. I pulled the fuel pump relay and re-primed the oil in the engine. Put the fuel pump relay back in and she bucked on the second try, stated up and ran smooth on the third try. I think it must have been the inertia fuel cut-off switch.

Everything sounds a lot better post top end rebuild, and I also got rid of exhaust leaks at the manifolds by replacing those gaskets and studs.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

I did not think the LR3 had an inertia switch.