Help Needed! Preserving/Updating “Option B” ABS Modulator Fix / 3 Amigos
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 27
Likes: 7
From: Seattle, WA
Help Needed! Preserving/Updating “Option B” ABS Modulator Fix / 3 Amigos
Hey everyone,
Like many of you, I’ve had enough visits from the Three Amigos to last a lifetime.Recently, I got frustrated trying to track down clear, complete info about the Option B fix for the ABS modulator on the Discovery 2. The old Land Rover Club V.I. write-up from Josh is a goldmine, but the links are fading, some of the photos are gone, and the information is scattered across different forums and archived sites.
So — I decided to rebuild and preserve that guide before it disappears completely.
I’ve been working on a cleaned-up, modernized version of the full “Option B” Shuttle Valve Bypass Fix, written in plain English (and with a little humor to keep it human). I pulled material from the original LRCVI post, RSW Solutions, Falconworks, Atlantic British, and forum discussions here and elsewhere. I’ve still got to add photos.
That said, I’m not claiming to be--nor do I want to be--an expert on it — I’m just a guy who wants to keep this information alive and easy to follow. I’m about to do the fix myself and will take high-quality photos along the way so we can have a definitive, preserved version for the next generation of owners.
What I Need Help With:
- Technical verification: Are there any changes, corrections, or safety improvements that should be made to the original Option B process?
- Clarification on the “Switch Only” kit:
I bought the SW0500030 Wabco Shuttle Valve Switch (the “switch only” kit). I have the shuttle valve fault code. Some people say you still need to cut and splice wires even when using a new switch, while others say you don’t.
I’d love to get a definitive answer on this from someone who can speak to it. There's people saying they've done it both ways — should I wire it straight in, or does the bypass still make sense even with a new switch? - Long-term results: For those who did Option B years ago — how’s it holding up? Any refinements, pitfalls, or updates worth noting?
- Extra resources: If you have links, diagrams, or your own photos from when you did yours, I’d love to incorporate them (with credit, of course).
FAQ's or Other Things to Change/Add/Take Away: Please feel free to comment with any suggestions. Anything that can make it more clear, relevant, or easier.
Thanks in advance to everyone who’s shared info over the years. Without the collective brain trust here, most of us would still be staring at those three amber lights wondering where to start.
Patrick
Currently haunted by the 3 Amigos, but working on their deportation paperwork.
Here's the link to the document so far:
https://doc.clickup.com/9017289800/d/h/8cqhv28-157/085de525aba266c
Rock Crawling
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 312
Likes: 66
From: Ontario
I can’t help with answers to your questions but I’m getting ready to do a full brake job on my 2002, and intend to undertake Option B at the same time. If I learn anything that might help I’ll let you know, but otherwise simply wanted to applaud your efforts and thank you for doing this.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 194
From: Central NJ
See below in bold.
Recently, I got frustrated trying to track down clear, complete info about the Option B fix for the ABS modulator on the Discovery 2. The old Land Rover Club V.I. write-up from Josh is a goldmine, but the links are fading, some of the photos are gone, and the information is scattered across different forums and archived sites.
So — I decided to rebuild and preserve that guide before it disappears completely.
I’ve been working on a cleaned-up, modernized version of the full “Option B” Shuttle Valve Bypass Fix, written in plain English (and with a little humor to keep it human). I pulled material from the original LRCVI post, RSW Solutions, Falconworks, Atlantic British, and forum discussions here and elsewhere. I’ve still got to add photos.
That said, I’m not claiming to be--nor do I want to be--an expert on it — I’m just a guy who wants to keep this information alive and easy to follow. I’m about to do the fix myself and will take high-quality photos along the way so we can have a definitive, preserved version for the next generation of owners.
Thanks in advance to everyone who’s shared info over the years. Without the collective brain trust here, most of us would still be staring at those three amber lights wondering where to start.
Patrick
Currently haunted by the 3 Amigos, but working on their deportation paperwork.
Here's the link to the document so far:
https://doc.clickup.com/9017289800/d/h/8cqhv28-157/085de525aba266c
Hey everyone,
Like many of you, I’ve had enough visits from the Three Amigos to last a lifetime.Recently, I got frustrated trying to track down clear, complete info about the Option B fix for the ABS modulator on the Discovery 2. The old Land Rover Club V.I. write-up from Josh is a goldmine, but the links are fading, some of the photos are gone, and the information is scattered across different forums and archived sites.
So — I decided to rebuild and preserve that guide before it disappears completely.
I’ve been working on a cleaned-up, modernized version of the full “Option B” Shuttle Valve Bypass Fix, written in plain English (and with a little humor to keep it human). I pulled material from the original LRCVI post, RSW Solutions, Falconworks, Atlantic British, and forum discussions here and elsewhere. I’ve still got to add photos.
That said, I’m not claiming to be--nor do I want to be--an expert on it — I’m just a guy who wants to keep this information alive and easy to follow. I’m about to do the fix myself and will take high-quality photos along the way so we can have a definitive, preserved version for the next generation of owners.
What I Need Help With:
- Technical verification: Are there any changes, corrections, or safety improvements that should be made to the original Option B process? None that I have heard or seen
- Clarification on the “Switch Only” kit:
I bought the SW0500030 Wabco Shuttle Valve Switch (the “switch only” kit). I have the shuttle valve fault code. Some people say you still need to cut and splice wires even when using a new switch, while others say you don’t.
I’d love to get a definitive answer on this from someone who can speak to it. There's people saying they've done it both ways — should I wire it straight in, or does the bypass still make sense even with a new switch? You want to cut the black connector off to splice wires for the ground and the connection. Pretty much the whole point of the Option B is to eliminate that black connector. - Long-term results: For those who did Option B years ago — how’s it holding up? Any refinements, pitfalls, or updates worth noting? I have not heard of anyone complaining, there is a separate issue sometimes in that the black, square profile o-ring leaks. Falcon Works sells replacements. If you bought a new valve switch that should not need replacement.
- Extra resources: If you have links, diagrams, or your own photos from when you did yours, I’d love to incorporate them (with credit, of course).
FAQ's or Other Things to Change/Add/Take Away: Please feel free to comment with any suggestions. Anything that can make it more clear, relevant, or easier.
Thanks in advance to everyone who’s shared info over the years. Without the collective brain trust here, most of us would still be staring at those three amber lights wondering where to start.
Patrick
Currently haunted by the 3 Amigos, but working on their deportation paperwork.
Here's the link to the document so far:
https://doc.clickup.com/9017289800/d/h/8cqhv28-157/085de525aba266c
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 268
Likes: 57
From: California
I did the option b about a year ago. It has been working great ever since! With the "switch only kit" this will only fix your issue if the issue is the shuttle valves themselves. You can test your old shuttle valves and see if they move freely and measure the resistance of the connector in different combinations of pressing the switches. (procedure detailed in the link below)
Most often the failure stems from the weak internal solder joints that connect the switch to the wabco unit, so it needs to be rewired with option b. Option A has you open up the wabco unit and fix the solder joints, but is more difficult and not worth it in my opinion.
I think the writeup has you disconnect the brake lines from the wabco, but I did not do that. I followed the atlantic british shuttle valve replacement video which just has you bend the lines a little bit.
The original write up with all the pictures can be found here https://web.archive.org/web/20170730...m/abs-mod.html
Since it is on archive.org, it should be available for awhile.
Most often the failure stems from the weak internal solder joints that connect the switch to the wabco unit, so it needs to be rewired with option b. Option A has you open up the wabco unit and fix the solder joints, but is more difficult and not worth it in my opinion.
I think the writeup has you disconnect the brake lines from the wabco, but I did not do that. I followed the atlantic british shuttle valve replacement video which just has you bend the lines a little bit.
The original write up with all the pictures can be found here https://web.archive.org/web/20170730...m/abs-mod.html
Since it is on archive.org, it should be available for awhile.
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