I'm getting ready to do an oil change soon here and figured I'd finally change the oil pan gasket, something I've needed to do for a while. This will be my first gasket replacement though, so I need a little specific guidance; I've been scouring the internet and can't quite get the answers I need.

1. HYLOMAR Universal Blue, should I use this underneath and on top of my replacement gasket I bought? The replacement is this part: Land Rover Oil Pan Gasket (Part # LVF100400) | Land Rover Engine Gaskets And Seals
2. I'm reading that I have to move the stabilizer bar and engine cover and steering dampener to get to the oil pan. Are these pretty straightforward or is there anything I need to watch out for?
3. Any tips?

Thanks,
Matt

 

You don't need to remove anything to get to the pan (unless the rock shield is still installed. If it is just completely remove it and don't worry about putting it back), you just wont be able to get it all the way out which doesn't matter that much. You will want to remove the transmission cooler line mounts so you can wiggle them around out of your way. I think you'll need a either a 7 or 8 mil socket, I can't remember.

I've never heard if Hylomar Blue. I assume that's similar to RTV. I just used RTV black on both sides of the gasket which worked perfectly.

It's a relatively simple job, just kinda cramped. If you need help, use the search to search for "Oil Pump/Timing Chain Replacement" and just skip the steps that have anything to do with the front cover.

Best of luck!

 

When I did mine I jacked up the truck leaving the axle hanging. This allowed me enough room to take it in and out. I think I also removed the crossmember but it was over a year ago. It is pretty simple.

 

The Hylomar Blue is just fancy RTV. If you are going to use it, be very sparing or it will squish out when you put it together again (and potentially get loose in the oil pan). Whether you use it or RTV, let it dry a little before putting it together to reduce the squish.

Getting the pan off by just jacking the truck up by the frame is the way to go (as mentioned above). You will still have to squirrel the pan around to get it out. Be careful of the oil pickup tube, which sticks down into the pan.

 

You guys are so great, thanks for the tips. I love having fellow Rovers whose brains I can pick, being a newer one myself. I'll tackle this later this week when I get a day off and post my results!

 

From their tech data sheet, RTV is silicone based, does cure but to a flexible state.

One advantage of the Hylomar may be the non-setting property. RTV curing process probably results in a very small/minute amount of shrinkage. I can imagine there may be some applications where Hylomar or similar product might have slight slight advantages in reducing seeps. RTV has the advantage of it's ability to provide a thicker seal with deeper scratches, dings or slight warping. Which is better if the squeeze happens to end up in the oil pan? With that said both products seem to be widely used interchangeably with no major issues. Fortunately in our situation wrenching on LRs doesn't normally require using a spec or recommended sealant to stay out of jail.

If going with RTV, Permatex 2677 is on-sale at NAPA for $5 until the end of next month and may be my choice to do the same gasket.

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