It sounds like it may take bucks to fix the problem of a maybe sticking valve.

I have used Chevron Techron and that will clean out carbon.
The best way is to fill it up and drive it like you want to blow it up.
Now let me tell you what I did.
Afew weeks ago I pulled a 5'x8' U-Haul the wind was very bad that day and a head wind at about 20mph.
I drove 400 miles and to keep my speed at 65 to 70mph at times the 3rd gear RPM was 4500rpm for 5 mins or so.

Well after the trip all I can say WOW I have more power than I have had in years.
I have always done the oil/plugs 4 prong things/ mag-cor wires /Sea Foam but I know its not a race car and never drove it hard,,, I think thats what it needed.

Now you dont have to go fast just work it hard at a higher RPM.
If you are looking at motor replacementwhat do you have to loose?
Just don't do high speed do lower gears and higher RPM but it needs to work at higher RPM not just be at higher RPM.

I think that as gas gets higher we all have tried to drive to get the best MPGs we can, just open it up every once
in a while to blow the carbon out.

The gas you had before could have been bad.

I hope you find the problem.

 

Yup, an italian tune-up is good for any engine. Good point about the gas prices and light feet. Not sure about the filter, I don't think I have one.

 

right D2's do not have them. i thought it was a stuck valve right off the bat but why would it free itself right when i put gas in it hmmm... so i should try workin the engine hard? for how long and what rpm should i keep it at? were can i get chevron techron? thanks for the input guys.

 

You can get Chevron Techron at Auto Zone or I think at the wal-m place.

How long will depend on your motor and the gunk in it.

If you have any large hills that your Disco down shifts on I would seek them out as it will work the motor and fuel system hard at the same time.
Over treat the fuel with the Techron this should cut down on the time it will take,, I would put 2 times in over what it recommends.

The new fuel may have got to cleaning just a little once it heats up you could be in the same place.
Most times the stuck valve did not show up until highway driving,,the bad part is that if it has been doing this long it could burn the valve and it could not be seating right and that would mean a valve job at the least.

 

If you think you have a lifter or rocker arm issue, go to the scourse and do an engine flush, then an induction cleaning then the good additive in the fuel tank, in that order. Just throwing something in the tank will not take care of any internal noise issues, need to clean out all the internal crude that has built up over the years, that will improve the oil flow, the induction cleaning will pull up your compression and the gas additive will clean the injectors.

 

What have you found??????

 

Why didn't you leave it at the garage and let them diagnose it for you? It sounds like you're all over the place in regards to shotgunning what the problem is, sometimes its worth the money to just have someone else look at it, at this point what do you have to loose?

 

Hi all - Justin here. Thought I would bump this up considering I am troubleshooting the exact same problems. Stumbling/sputtering/intermittent crappy acceleration/same codes.

I've talked to Disco Mike a few times (THANK YOU!) and he has me headed in the right direction.

Basically the truck runs like *** at idle. It will clean up a bit while driving, then hit a dead spot around 22-2300RPMS, backfire, and then clear up again.

I've changed the plugs/wires (OEM Wires, waiting on Magnacores), flushed lower half of engine, cleaned throttle body/butterfly valve/replaced fuel filter and no change. Same note, the plugs were black and smelled like gas when I changed them. Mike said the motor is "puking". Sounds like a good term!

I'm working on changing out the 4 O2 sensors hoping that will help.

It's really strange; if I manually shift (it's auto) and really give it hell, it runs like a BEAST. Very powerful and fast... but if I use drive, it falls on its face since it shifts at low RPMS and sputters like hell at the lower end.

I've run seafoam and Techron through the tank. I have NOT done an intake flush yet as my neighbors will freakin blow up my house. I'm taking it to my buddy's shop to complete that.

Next step is to go back to the shop, clear the codes and drive. See what comes up. I would imagine the same ones until I get the O2's, but figured I'd see for sure.

Truck has 103K on it, and was poorly maintained. I'm trying to revive it! The oil was jet black when I changed it...

Any other insight is appreciated. I'll keep updating as I make (hopeful) progress!

Justin

 

Good luck with changing that filter. They are a booger to get off. Usually the fittings are rusted on.

 

If you change your fuel filter once a year and put anti-sieze and it will save you a ton of trouble.
JD-I would say that your trk is running rich and once you get your new O2's it will be fine.