Good luck on the 2-din build. Document it if you can. Probably going to be one of my next projects.

 

For you experienced Audio guys, do you know what would happen if I tried to use a multi meter to do continuity checks to see if there is separate wires to the tweeter and mid.

If there is a crossover, no matter if I disconnect the tweeter or mid, I should verify continuity thru the circuit. If there is no crossover and they are wired separately, then I should not.

The problem is if they are paralleled together with just a bass blocker on the tweeter, I will get continuity no matter what, but that would also confirm it it just one channel feeding it.

Am I correct with my logic?

I like the idea of just running new wires, but I have already sealed the door with sound deadener and that stuff is to expensive to cut up just to add a wire.

 

I believe you should test for resistance to verify the continuity.

I believe your logic is right though. I'd test the resistance on the circuit, and unplug the tweeter, if it changes then they are on the same circuit.

From what I can see in the RAVE's Electrical Circuit Diagrams the high and mid share a channel off the amplifier (pg126), and by appearances not through a passive crossover. I also read online you can use a battery to test the polarity of the wires (movement outward first indicates correct polarity).

 

Just so you guys don't think I am smoking crack, here is the pages from the Discovery II Electrical Circuits.pdf

 

If you look at the wires for the mid and high on the 2nd diagram they appear to be the same color and do no show independent connections within the amp. I think they just rearranged the first diagram.

 

What I did was run a set of wires for each side up to a set of Boston Acoustic crossovers which had a single input and a dual output (one for tweeters, one for woofers). I ended up just running the woofers straight from the amp because it sounded better and the tweeters through the crossover so I didn't end up blowing one. The 2" door speakers I did not replace or hook back up,
I find them to be pretty unnecessary, and I believe they bring your sound stage down lower than you really want it any way.

And on a seperate note, instead of buying actual deadener I ended up using a product called "Peel and Seal" that I got from the roofing section in lowes. I think I only used one roll to completely do all 4 doors. It was only $15 per roll and it is very similar to actual dynamat. It worked just as well as any dynamat I've ever seen, made the truck sound a million times better. And quieter. I plan to do the roof while my headliner is down also.

 

I tried the peel and seal a while a while back and noticed a roofey smell on warm days.

Have you noticed any smell?

I didn't use dynamat. Found a cheap knock off that is guaranteed not to smell. It's not $15 a roll, but a hell of a lot cheaper than dynamat.

I did use dynamat on my roof. If your good with the peel and seal, use it on your roof. Makes a HUGE difference, especially during a rain storm!

 

ice and water dam inside the doors, well you wont have to worry about ice damming in there

 

Huh, I've never noticed a smell, but that could just be because it's behind my door panels and don't get a lot of air movement. I guess I'll still try it, but if it smells then there's no way I can afford that much dynamat.

 

Well, using the Electrical Library document with the Electrical Diagram doc, I figured out all the inputs, outputs, positive, negatives, color codes, etc.

I put it in a excel doc if anyone is interested. Is there a way to post/host documents on the forum?

Got another member trying to map out the High Line headphone connections and find a harness that will hook up to the factory ISO connectors to connect to a aftermarket amp. If he is successful, I can add that to the document as well.