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Yep, the rear is completely removed. The fronts I made disconnects for because she's still my daily driver and hard turns were just a little too squirrely without the front for my taste.
Here's some pictures of the flex I'm getting with rear removed, front disconnected (well, I actually only disconnected the drop side), stock watts, and stock brake lines on 3.5" lift. The lift is stock rear springs in the front and spacers I made in the rear. I also disconnected the shocks because I haven't replaced the stock shocks yet.
Alex, is your hood open or is this caused by the gas prop mod!!!?? hahaha
Seriously, what kind of brush guard do you have!? I was hoping its from a chevy or something as it looks good and I know I can find one reasonably priced! Id LOVE to have an ARB but not today gonna happen! lol
Brush guard is pretty decently modified. I got it off if a wrecked 07 trail blazer. It hit a deer in the front. Had to cut the top center section out and weld in a new one. Then cut the ends and pulled them forward a small few degrees. That part wasn't totally necessary, but helped. Then I cut the whole bottom section off and ran new bars straight back to the frame.
Look up pictures of the guards. You can compare and see what I did. Not hard, and you could do less. Shoot me a pm and ill throw you some pictures.
.... My fix was that I measured the front saw bars and noticed that the links are the exact same things as the rear but about 4" longer. so I bought a pair of fronts and put them in the rear. I'm finding the same off-road articulating characteristics an having a stock on-road ride as well. FYI, my truck has a 3" suspension lift so this seems to fall into place nicely.
I’m reading through old posts and found this.
I’m going to try adding the longer front stabilizer bar links to the rear since the boots are worn away on the rear links.
Last edited by JUKE179r; Mar 10, 2018 at 10:34 PM.
Currently I have rear sway deleted, and the SlickRockFab disconnects from expeditionexchange, but the fronts have been fully disconnected for months. I'm probably going to delete the front sways altogether soon. Two fewer things to grease, two fewer bushings, and a hunk of metal gone.
I'm rereading these posts again...
I have a 3" lift so would it be better to have the shorter rear links all around or the longer front links all around? Thanks.
Thanks for the info Alex_M.
Some of the Brits over here use on their lifted Disco 2s the D3 fronts on the front and D2 fronts on the rear. I read the D2 front links are about 2.5"/70mm longer than the rears, and the D3 front links are about 1"/30mm longer than D2 front links.
Just throwing that info out there too. lol
After messaging Alex, he said he has had 20k trouble free miles with this mod, so I decided to go through with it.
Went very smoothly, I disconnected the rears entirely and did the lynch pin mod in front.
What a difference off road, and when hooked up all is normal. I can even thread the nuts back on hand tight over the pins for extra security, but I doubt that is necessary.
I have to admit, I will likely leave them disconnected most of the time. The ride is a little squirrely around corners, you have to drive conservatively, but no big deal. In fact, it is no worse (if not better) than my stock 1985 Toyota FJ60 with it's worn out leaf springs and little sway bars.
I was surprised to find that its not a legal requirement to have a sway bar (anti roll bar) fitted on land rovers as it was an option extra, but with that amount of uncontrolled flex in the axle, I would wont to know I was not about to snap a flexible brake hose
