No matter what name it's known by... has this part failed on you before?

My horns and CC don't work and I've tested everything in the path for the horns and confirmed:
-voltage to the horns
-no blown fuse or relay
-voltage at steering wheel horn buttons
-grounds are all good
-horns operate with direct connection to battery
-no clicking at relay when buttons depressed

So, my assumption is I need to replace the rotary connection.
Big differences in price for the part ranging from $35 to over $300.

Anybody have experience replacing this part. I've got the airbag off and figure I can easily do the steering wheel too. Do I really need to replace the crush washer on the steering wheel nut?

Thanks!

 

Would seem a prime candidate for the junkyard (make room for some of our elected officials as well) - you get to hone your skills taking one off without tearing up your truck.

 

Or your horns could have failed, do you have power to them when you try and honk?

 

He said the horns work when directly powered.

Without the proper electrical testing equipment, it's pretty much impossible unless you get lucky. A relay has to be tested, normally can't tell it's not working by looking at it, unless there is melted plastic around that area of the box. I have seen the board under all of fuses and relays go bad. You can try to look under there and see if anything looks funny, but you will normally have an odd smell also.

 

I've swapped in a different relay. I've also confirmed connectivity from the relay hot pins to the horns. It appears the problem is upstream. I suppose there might be something wrong under the fuse box. Is that an easy removal? Looks like you disconnect the battery input and unscrew the unit. It certainly wouldn't hurt to look at this point.

My middle finger is getting tired because I don't have horns

 

Not too difficult to get to. Wouldn't hurt to look.

 

Here's a pix of the connector that carries the wire from horn relay to coupler, then that is grounded by buttons. It's the Purple/orange on pin 5. Ground it at the connector and horn should honk. There is also a header over under the HVAC fan, suppose could have a leak on that which has corroded connections for lots of things. The RAVE has wiring diagrams, with tiny (make crows feet) numbers, those index in the electrical library to these connector photos and pin outs.

What I am suggesting is a simple jumper wire to ground test, no meter required. Might want to do this before tearing steering wheel apart, etc.

 

Thanks Savannah!
That little nugget is appreciated.

The horns indeed went off loud and clear when I grounded pin 5
I'm going to assume that since I have voltage at the buttons and the cruise control is not working either, it's gotta be the coupler...?

 

I would support that diagnosis. The horn buttons have to get to ground somewhere. But if you said you have voltage at the buttons themselves, the only way it would get there is through the rotary coupler. So perhaps it is not as bad as you believe. The ground is one side of each horn button. The horns tie back to ground inside the wheel, wiring diagram does not show earth ground lead passing thru rotary coupler. While ugly, you could install a temporary horn button on the steering column from the point you tested. Many of us live without cruise. Attached schematic.

 

I took a look at the cruise control wiring plan. If rotary coupler was bad, the +12 volts from the horn relay coil (not earthed yet) would not be able to get to the two cruise switches.