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How to change the trans fluid on a DII

Old Jan 10, 2011 | 07:58 AM
  #61  
5mall5nail5's Avatar
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Hi guys - late to the discussion.

On older BMWs I have worked on they actually recommend not changing the transmission fluid in the automatic (GM units) over a certain mileage because some how people experience slipping and transmission faults more likely afterward.

Any worry w/ Land Rover DIIs? I have a 2000 DII and have no idea when the trans or diff fluids have been replaced last. Was thinking of doing it in the garage one evening. What fluids does everyone prefer?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 10:38 AM
  #62  
humroot's Avatar
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Originally Posted by texmbr
Wanted to correct this. The correct Autozone Tran Kit is TF184. Sorry.
This might be a dumb question, but these kits only have 1 o-ring, right? What do you do about the 2nd (smaller) o-ring?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 11:48 AM
  #63  
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I reused my existing small o-ring. In answer to 5mal5nail5, if you don't know when it was changed on a 2000 - change it! these transmissions are tough, but old, dirty fluid will shorten their life. If you have over 100K, you should change every ~40k or so.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:40 PM
  #64  
mx468's Avatar
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Pump the new transmission fluid into the fill/check hole until it starts to come out of the hole, replace the plug.

Do you mean once I drain the transmission fluid, I screw the drain plug back on, and than pump in new atf through the fill hole and stop until it comes out of the fill/check hole or do I leave the drain plug screw off while filling with new oil and wait until it starts leaking out of the drain plug hole. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #65  
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You need to replace the drain plug, otherwise you will just be draining fresh atf. You also need to check the atf level with the engine running and hot.
So in short:
Drain old + replace filter if doing that.
Replace drain plug
Fill up atf up to fill plug
Start engine and shift gears from P to 1 and back - do not drive
With engine running and tranny in P fill until atf starts to flow out fill plug
Replace fill plug
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:52 PM
  #66  
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Thank you, I got it. Which oil would you recommend? Does it matter which filter and gasket set I get. I found a full kit by proline from Rovers North for $27.00
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #67  
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Rovers North would be a good one, I don't trust stuff from the zone and such, but that's just me. I used Valvoline Max Life atf, mine hasn't blown up yet.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #68  
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So here's the thing...

My drain plug appears to have the head (and hex socket) ground down flat on it, somehow. Is this the plug that everyond kvetches about it being plastic, and AB sells a brass replacement? If so, what's the recommended way to get it out, since I can't wrench it.

I assume I don't want to drill it out; metal filings in your AT aren't really recommended...
Please post a pic of this. You should have two allen head bolts in the pan of the trans like Spike shows on the first page. The allen head is sort of opposite of a traditional bolt if you have never seen one, the wrench slides inside vs the outside. If they have been rounded out, you might want to buy a replacement pan as you will have a tough time getting them out...
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #69  
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I can't get my filler/check screw to come unscrewed. Even with some WD-40. I'm using the correct allen wrench and everything. Any ideas?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #70  
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PB Blaster and a breaker bar to increase leverage.
 
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