I have replaced my front and rear rotors and pads with EBC components. I replaced the rear caliper brackets as two of the pins were sticky. The front caliper brackets pins looked fine so I just greased them. I used a C clamp to push the caliper pistons in. Did not seem to have an issue doing that but not sure how much resistance you should expect. broke the breaks in for about 25 miles of around town driving. Then did a shorter trail. Started off just fine but on the way down where you have to use the brakes a lot they got hot then squishy. Should my next step be a brake fluid flush or is that behavior seem more caliper related??

 

2 things I can think of, 1st off how hot is hot. If there was smoke coming off the brakes then that can cause issues.

And what color is your brake fluid, it should be very nearly clear. If it is discolored, very dark yellow or worse, you need to flush the fluid in the system.

On steep trail hills gear down and let the engine do a lot of the work, use the brakes in brief pumps to keep the speed and RPM in control.

 

It is a light brown in color. Not dark but does have some color. Why wife said she saw some smoke from the front right wheel coming out of the steepest part of trail. I was in low range and had it is 1. But these trails are steep and have plenty of ledge. Lots of loose gravel as well. I live in Ouray CO. Maybe I was riding the brakes due to that. Hard to think back but it is possible.

 

Well I have had smoke off the right front too, in the same situation - must be a disco thing. It is something you need to avoid if you can though. Sometimes it just happens.

Light brown should not be too bad - it can take a lot of fluid to get things fully clear.

You can test for leaks by starting the truck up, pump the brake pedal 4 or 5 times and HOLD. Over 3 or 4 minutes the pedal should stay in place. If it drops you have a leak somewhere or a bad master cylinder.

If the pedal holds try re-bleeding you may have had air in the ABS modulator that worked it's way out. And make sure your bleeders are tight when you are done.

Finally you can do the really annoying test, pull your calipers 1 at time, for each one:

Check the surfaces the brake pads slide on and make sure they are clean and the pads move freely by hand. Also take a look at your pads they should have even surface wear. You can see it visually on the surface if there is a problem.

Then use a small block of wood about the width of both pads (you do not want to piston to come out too far), drop into the caliper where the pads go and have some someone step on the brake.

The piston should come out smoothly and evenly and then retract the same way.

Needless to say check all 4

That is all I have I am afraid .

 

Don't new rotors have a coating on them that burns off?

 

That is enough to chew on. I am interested on the pump brakes 4 times then hold. I was curious how to rule out master cylinder.

 

They are coated with a black coat that does wear off.

 

I had EBC set that after doing some downhill driving and riding them got hot and squishy. On new brakes you should always do 200 miles of light braking for bed in procedure.

EBC even supplies a card with the pads that says something to this effect

 

Always forget about that

 

Ah, I did not see the card. Not stickers either now that I think about it. Oh well. So drive around town more until I get the 200 mile mark before hitting another trail?