I know that the DI MAF's are more forgiving...but why chance it?
DI MAF's are like a million dollars compared to a DII MAF which is just this side of free.

 

just might hate me for posting this but..... i read a very long article from k&n reguarding maf's and the like.i run a k&n in my truck and clean it religiously and well as using CRC MAF on the maf. therhas been much debate about the filter oil destroying a maf's so they did a huge test to prove otherwise. now this is k&n doing the testing in thier facility so i would emagine one way or another the winning vote is catored at k&n. they claim there has not been one failure of a maf specifically due to using their filters and thier oil. if you have a failure of your maf, they will take your maf and determine the cause of failure. they will replace it if itdbad due to thier engineering. now cleaning the maf may be different. i clean mine and have had great luck with it, prob will until i have soem negative type of result. its a heated metal wire, i cant see a solvent killing the metal. but everyone on here claims to stay away from the stuff.

 

I hear what you are saying Ryan, and I have heard this before.
I have also heard from many that less than a year after installing a K&N air filter on their DII they needed a new MAF, have also heard from others that they have had great luck.
I used a K&N air filter on my 2001 Montero, no MAF problems but also no difference in MPG or HP, it was a huge waste of money.
$65 for the filter, $15 for the filter oil = alot of $20 paper air filters.
With no MPG gain and driving the US average of 12,000 miles per year and replacing the paper air filter every 20,000 miles it will take the average person 6.5 years to break even.
Now this does not include the hour it takes to clean and re-oil the K&N air filter every 6 months.

 

my luck it craps out on my way skiing next weekend. ill let cha, and you can stay i told ya so.

 

Deal! LOL

 

That's nice of K&N to take your MAF. How long it takes to ship there, let them examine it and then send it back to you only to find out it's your fault? I'd rather have a snorkel then a K&N intake anyways. BTW, the price of a D2 MAF increased in early '08 by about $80, so they're about $220 now.

 

I did not advocate cleaning a LR MAF, that is why I said I have no experience on an LR MAF. But, I do know what has worked in the realm of VW MAFs made by Bosh. If somebody has had experience with an LR MAF, then they should share what they have learned.

 

I had the codes that are caused by a bad MAF on my D2 last spring. I used non chlorinated brake cleaner on a Q-tip and cleaned the sensors real good, then generously sprayed the whole inside of the MAF and immediatly blew it dry with my air compressor.

I might have gotten lucky, but it worked like a charm. I figured I had nothing to lose, since if it didn't work, I needed an new MAF anyways.

 

Well I have seen LOADS of people clean their D2 MAF's as well, with good results. I would admit 99% of them are TD5 MAF's not V8 ones, but I would suggest there is not that much difference. On the flip side, when mine died, just replaced it.

I still have the old one, and will clean it and test it when I have some diagnositics to see if the cleaning made it work again.