The water pump went out on my D2. How hard is this to change yourself? Are there any special tools needed?

 

You have to remove the fan and that generally requires a large wrench (I think I use a 1 7/8ths but I'm not positive and there is a metric equivalent). The pump comes off with a 10 and an 11 mm socket. Then you just need to get the old gasket material off and plop the new one in.

With the engine in it will tax your back a little. If you remove the bottom right bolt first it will drain the coolant to that point and make less of a mess than removing the radiator hose.

I like to use rtv (blue) to account for any imperfections in the mating surfaces. You might also want to have some sort of plastic scraper or a razor blade to get the old gasket material off but be careful not to scratch the surface.

 

What Charlie said. My 2 cents:
1. Get the pump from BP UTAH with the brass impellor.
2. Get an OEM gasket but not from the dealer. Rover wants $25 for the gasket. It's a good gasket.
3. Trace the gasket on cardboard, the way it mounts to the engine. Trace bolt holes. Pull a bolt, put in in that hole.
4. It's not hard but I spent 2 hours with a razor scraper and 7-8 blades later I had a clean surface.
5. At least one bolt goes through the timing cover. You will lose fluid from that hole. It is normal.
6. Torque to spec, just enough to press the cover on the gasket.
I took the opportunity to change my hoses and 180 t-stat. Took a good half day. Mainly scraping old gasket off.
7. My fan comes off easy. Large channel lock pliers and it slips right off.
8. Loosen pulley bolts with belt on to hold it.

Scroll through here for pics.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...sealant-77855/

 

I just changed mine on the side of the road in NV when towing the Jeep out to go wheeling last week. Takes about 45 mins or so.

The wrench you need to remove the fan clutch nut is 36mm. You can get it as a loaner tool from Autozone ($25 deposit that is refunded) - ask for the tool kit that is for the Ford Mustang V8. The wrench is in there, not in the big loaner tool wrench set. Go figure.

As was mentioned above, the bottom right bolt is the one that will drain the block down to that level, so make sure you have a tub down there to catch the coolant if you're somewhere you don't want it to run all over the place.
Just remember where the three longer bolts go and you're good; all the others are the same size, 10mm head.

 

I changed mine about 2 years ago and I thought it was the easiest water pump I've ever installed. The hardest part is removing the old gasket material from the engine side of the mating surface.

 

I did it in our parking lot with -15 degree windchill. It's not hard

 

...fairly easy DIY job if you have all tools at hand as mentioned above, just careful with tightening the screws, make sure to do it to specs; I over-tighten one and I think I damaged it, I'll see when next change comes around, so far no leaks from there ...yet! ;-]#