Hello Roverites!
I did Josh's Option B repair for my Three Amigos 10 years and 120,000 miles ago. Well, the Three Amigos have popped up again so it looks like I am redoing the Option B repair again. I was just curious if anyone has ever had to do this twice. I cannot complain by any means, done at 72,000 and here I am at 192,000.

 

It all depends on the condition of the wiring insulation, the ground condition. Those Shuttle Valve Switches have poor insulation (the brown stuff). I personally have repaired several dead Shuttle Valve switches and used 3/32 heatshrink over the bare wire and it's held up great.

 

It could be the shuttle valve dying? When I’ve done it in the past it was done with a new shuttle valve- and was taught that was the best way to do it.

But as you say, after 10 years, not too shabby. I’m also with Best in that it probably has to do with the quality of the wiring.

 

The Three Amigos can be triggered by faults not related to the shuttle valve switches or the Option B bypass. Have you read the codes to confirm the Boys from South of the Border are due to the Shuttle Valve Switch Electrical Failure fault?

As for how long the repair can last, I think the answer is indefinitely.

That said, Josh Salas, who came up with Option B, wrote that his truck had the SVS code pop up after a few years. But in the case of his truck it wasn't a failure of the wiring he substituted; he traced the failure to the ground point (the A/C line bracket bolt near the ABS modulator). Once he cleaned that ground point all was well again. Josh recommends periodic cleaning of the ground point.

I did Option B on my truck a little over 11 years ago, in February 2011. The truck had 113,000 miles on it at the time. I don't drive it very much in recent years, so in my case it's lasted 66,000 miles. The truck has had the Three Amigos twice since then, but both instances were due to failed wheel sensor connectors.

To the point made by Best4x4, I've seen his pics of failed insulation in the switch pack; a problem independent of Option B even though the same fault code would be triggered. So even if the SVS code is confirmed, it may not be a problem with your Option B work.

 

Thanks for the input folks. To answer a couple of questions put to me: I have confirmed the Shuttle Valve Electric failure via my ABS amigo
1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
Logged Faults:
114:Shuttle Valve Electric Failure
<-END Faults
I did inspect the ground but did not clean it. When I did the repair, I had to run the ground all the way over to a ground bolt near the fuse box: I could not get a good ground right next to the ABS block. I'm going to visually inspect the wiring right up to the SVS before I pull it again to see if those connections have degraded over time. Otherwise I think I may have to redo.

 

Like I said it'll probably be the brown insulated wires on the actual shuttle valve switches. I know you replaced it, but it's the same part going in so I suspect your wiring will be fine up until the actual brown wires of the shuttle valve switch assembly itself. You can simply break all the cracked/broken insulation, slide some 3/32 heat shrink over it, and re-terminate it and be good to go for another 5-10 years of service.

 

Don't just visually inspect. Test continuity of the ground line using your multimeter.