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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 11:30 AM
  #11  
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This is my F250 extended cab headliner(sorry, can't find the picture with the radiant barrier on the other side), but it's basically done the same, only easier.
Just silicone drops to hold it while it goes in.
Cut to fit the headliner board top, but not folded over the edges like the clothe is. The clothe is folded over to the top side and spray glued their too, then the radiant barrier laid over the top.
If you do the headliner too, you'll really want an extra set of hands, especially with 2 sunroof openings.
The full size extended cab truck is about as long as you want to do by yourself.
Spray glue sets fast, and wrinkles are permanent.
Replace the headliner clothe as if it had no sunroofs, let it dry, then go back and cut them out(carefully), and fold the edges over and glue them.
Some soft gloves really help smooth the material on to the board too, and keep any oils from even clean hands from staining the clothe.
Good luck if you try it, it's not a hard job.

 
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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 07:42 PM
  #12  
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Thanks! - I will be adding this to the list. My headliner is in good shape and all the pictures I've seen of these projects look over my pay grade but I will definitely be doing the insulation matting for the floor.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 08:18 AM
  #13  
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One thing I always comment on is for folks to be fully aware of the difference between a vibration dampener and a sound dampener.
They are not the same nor are 100% effective in a single material.

Ideally, you'd want to install the vibration dampening material first then layer with the sound dampening material for the best overall results.

This guy talks in decent detail about using different thicknesses in different areas and layering with the sound material.

Note - Dynamat is NOT a sound dampener - and layering a vibration product is a waste of money. So is covering 100% of the surface area with it.
You want to cover 100% with the sound dampening material , not necessarily the vibration material.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 08:36 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by cvhyatt
hey sixpack- since you have done this already it would be interesting to see how much it brought down your Dbs. Care to do some testing with the sonic tool app for comparison purposes?
This guy did an older Land Cruise and went from 95db to 89db which IMO is significant....

 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 09:15 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by NewToTheTwo
This guy did an older Land Cruise and went from 95db to 89db which IMO is significant....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i7liM6Y7Hc
My long term plan is to do inside the doors too.
I put the radian barrier in just for heat insulation, but was suprised just how much it quieted things down inside.
And, my D2 was very quiet stock anyway.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 09:16 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by NewToTheTwo
This guy did an older Land Cruise and went from 95db to 89db which IMO is significant....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i7liM6Y7Hc
6 decibels is Alot!
 
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 09:20 AM
  #17  
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This is what I use.


 
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 12:21 PM
  #18  
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Hey Sixpack - did you remove any of the existing insulation under the carpet or did you just put it over what was there?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 05:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cvhyatt
Hey Sixpack - did you remove any of the existing insulation under the carpet or did you just put it over what was there?
I didn't remove anything.
I put the radiant barrier directly against the metal body, then laid the carpet back down.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 01:04 PM
  #20  
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When I did my headliner, I put a rockwool type insulation everywhere it would in the ceiling. filled in the gaps, etc. I would say it is much quieter for the $40 and 10 minutes it took. Well worth doing.
 
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