How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
#11
02-08-2008, 01:25 PM
#12
02-08-2008, 01:35 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Whew and I thought mine was bad off... note if you do get it.. make sure you get the RAVE Cd
It helps a lot.
Mine leans to the right and my alignment is off... at least im hopeing. My power steering leaks because of the gearbox, my ABS is shot (havent been able to find a place that can run a code scanner on it) and the check eng light is showing p1178... so basiacaly im looking at a good 2grand to repair. Depending on how much you do it will be little amount or lots. But that RAVE Cd should help you out alot
It helps a lot.
Mine leans to the right and my alignment is off... at least im hopeing. My power steering leaks because of the gearbox, my ABS is shot (havent been able to find a place that can run a code scanner on it) and the check eng light is showing p1178... so basiacaly im looking at a good 2grand to repair. Depending on how much you do it will be little amount or lots. But that RAVE Cd should help you out alot
#13
02-08-2008, 02:47 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Probably not a wise investment. Listen to the advice on this one. Pass and look for something else. If your heart is set on a disco, there are so many out there in much better shape than this one. I realize you used to be a mechanic, but have you ever priced parts for a LR? Not exactly a $50 trip to autozone.
Take your mechanic knowledge and apply it to a disco that needs less loving. You'll enjoy the vehicle a lot more, save money and have a vehicle that you can sell again later and not lose too much on your investment. But odds are, you'll put a little love into her, and she'll love you back 10 fold...and you'll never dream of selling her.
-W
Take your mechanic knowledge and apply it to a disco that needs less loving. You'll enjoy the vehicle a lot more, save money and have a vehicle that you can sell again later and not lose too much on your investment. But odds are, you'll put a little love into her, and she'll love you back 10 fold...and you'll never dream of selling her.
-W
#14
02-08-2008, 04:36 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
My heart is not set on a Disco. It's one of those things when you think you have a good deal. Personally it doesn't matter if I came across a Chevy Cavilar for sale, if the price is right I might be interested. I'll think about it over the weekend and see what happens.
#15
02-08-2008, 07:15 PM
#16
02-08-2008, 08:14 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Hey your truck looks a lot like the one I just bought. Same color anyway. I picked up a '99 with 85,000 miles and some mechanical issues. No haggle price of $2200. Has had some accident in the past which seems to have turned buyers off.To be my "beater" truck I didn't see how that made a difference for me. The truck it replaces has holes in it big enough to put my fist through. Repair history that I have to squint to find traces of. Ok by me.
The sticker is saying you can't run this vehicle on a 2 wheel dyno because it's full time 4wd.Apparently the EPA says because of that itmust be on a 4 wheel dyno or OK to do a no moving test. IF you live in a state or area that does not require emission testing on a dyno it means nothing 
ORIGINAL: CandiMan
What exactly is this EPA exemption sticker saying
What exactly is this EPA exemption sticker saying
#17
02-08-2008, 09:41 PM
#18
03-12-2008, 08:24 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
With a little hesitation and going against mostly everyones opinion, I jumped inwith both feet. The truck is now mine. Towed it home after work. So barewith the new kid on the block. I'm sure I'll be asking newbie questions. I prefer bumping older threads if it pretains to a subject I'm dealing with. It keeps the forum clutter free and it shows I did a search.
First ojective is to get P/S fluid in the reservoir and see where it's leaking from.
Besides British Atlantic (which I'm sure I will be calling when the time is right) does anyone know of someone who I can get the right rear brake line from. The line that attaches to the caliper? I've already checked the classified section, there was no immediate hits in that section
See you around
Mike
First ojective is to get P/S fluid in the reservoir and see where it's leaking from.
Besides British Atlantic (which I'm sure I will be calling when the time is right) does anyone know of someone who I can get the right rear brake line from. The line that attaches to the caliper? I've already checked the classified section, there was no immediate hits in that section
See you around
Mike
#19
03-12-2008, 10:31 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
You know, I don't think it's such a terrible rig. A little TLC and she'll be good again. You'll learn a lot about Land Rovers and hopefully have fun in the process. Please don't get disenfranchised. You bought a rig that has deferred maintenance that is, for the most part, easily repairable if you take your time and apply your mechanical skills:
Bumper/Fender: Mine was exactly same way. It doesn't take much to push in that bumper as the outside is not supported. It's not likethe truck was"wrecked". Just carefully remove that filler piece below the light (a new one is $37 unpainted, so use care to re-use), then remove the lower plastic piece below the bumper and carefully get a chain in there and other end on a come-a-long to a tree and slowly pull out. Really, you need to fabricate some flat hooks out of 1/4" bar and curve the end so the hook will wrap around the top and another one on the bottom so it won't distort the bumper. It's a 2 hr job and it'll put out so you can't even tell. The fenders are aluminum and you can carefully tweak back into shape as they're so flimsy. To remove the corner lamp, look from under the hood on the inside of the grille and you'll see a round wire about the diameter of a quarter. Pull it up and it'll unhook and you can remove the light to reposition.
Carpets: Easy to clean. Get a bucket of warm/hot soapy water (lots of soap), and your hose and shop vac. Lightly spray the carpet with a fine mist (don't soak), then apply soapy water with a sponge to the carpet. Brush with a short bristle brush until clean. Then spray a decent amount of water (this time soak), then immediately suck out with shop vac. Repeat a couple times. Carpet will come super clean. While you're at it, just take some water and brush the door panels and seat sides too. That way you don't have to worry about making a mess.
Head liner: The only way to fix a sagging headliner is to completely remove it, remove the foam backing (wire brush on a drill works fine), and re-adhere a new piece. The foam itself isn't very expensive ($60), but it's a lot of work. In the mean time, I'd just stick some pins to hold it up until you get the other bugs worked out.
Leak: I bet it is a p/s leak. Mine was (still is) the same way. It appears to be a hose clamp, or the hose itself. It's something I've lived with.
Brake line: Piece of cake.
Seats: Clean as best as possible. Worse case you can use a leather dye or paint/pigment on the drivers bottom. If you really like the rig, you can probably buy a new cover for the bottom from L/R, for a kings ransom.
Motor Tic: Drive it around for a while and see how it goes. It might be from sitting. Mine will tic a little if it sits for a while. If you run some synthetic in it for a year or two it might clean her out pretty well inside. Or flush, but if it's really caked, not sure what that'll do for ya on a really caked motor. See what she lookes like under the valve cover.
Yeah, get the Rave CD (free download at some web site). Quick tip: do a search and open it using my instructions as a lot of guys get confused how to open it. New Adobe acrobat won't work.
Good luck
Bumper/Fender: Mine was exactly same way. It doesn't take much to push in that bumper as the outside is not supported. It's not likethe truck was"wrecked". Just carefully remove that filler piece below the light (a new one is $37 unpainted, so use care to re-use), then remove the lower plastic piece below the bumper and carefully get a chain in there and other end on a come-a-long to a tree and slowly pull out. Really, you need to fabricate some flat hooks out of 1/4" bar and curve the end so the hook will wrap around the top and another one on the bottom so it won't distort the bumper. It's a 2 hr job and it'll put out so you can't even tell. The fenders are aluminum and you can carefully tweak back into shape as they're so flimsy. To remove the corner lamp, look from under the hood on the inside of the grille and you'll see a round wire about the diameter of a quarter. Pull it up and it'll unhook and you can remove the light to reposition.
Carpets: Easy to clean. Get a bucket of warm/hot soapy water (lots of soap), and your hose and shop vac. Lightly spray the carpet with a fine mist (don't soak), then apply soapy water with a sponge to the carpet. Brush with a short bristle brush until clean. Then spray a decent amount of water (this time soak), then immediately suck out with shop vac. Repeat a couple times. Carpet will come super clean. While you're at it, just take some water and brush the door panels and seat sides too. That way you don't have to worry about making a mess.
Head liner: The only way to fix a sagging headliner is to completely remove it, remove the foam backing (wire brush on a drill works fine), and re-adhere a new piece. The foam itself isn't very expensive ($60), but it's a lot of work. In the mean time, I'd just stick some pins to hold it up until you get the other bugs worked out.
Leak: I bet it is a p/s leak. Mine was (still is) the same way. It appears to be a hose clamp, or the hose itself. It's something I've lived with.
Brake line: Piece of cake.
Seats: Clean as best as possible. Worse case you can use a leather dye or paint/pigment on the drivers bottom. If you really like the rig, you can probably buy a new cover for the bottom from L/R, for a kings ransom.
Motor Tic: Drive it around for a while and see how it goes. It might be from sitting. Mine will tic a little if it sits for a while. If you run some synthetic in it for a year or two it might clean her out pretty well inside. Or flush, but if it's really caked, not sure what that'll do for ya on a really caked motor. See what she lookes like under the valve cover.
Yeah, get the Rave CD (free download at some web site). Quick tip: do a search and open it using my instructions as a lot of guys get confused how to open it. New Adobe acrobat won't work.
Good luck
#20
03-13-2008, 04:09 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
ORIGINAL: Mark G
You know, I don't think it's such a terrible rig. A little TLC and she'll be good again. You'll learn a lot about Land Rovers and hopefully have fun in the process. Please don't get disenfranchised. You bought a rig that has deferred maintenance that is, for the most part, easily repairable if you take your time and apply your mechanical skills:
Bumper/Fender: Mine was exactly same way. It doesn't take much to push in that bumper as the outside is not supported. It's not likethe truck was"wrecked". Just carefully remove that filler piece below the light (a new one is $37 unpainted, so use care to re-use), then remove the lower plastic piece below the bumper and carefully get a chain in there and other end on a come-a-long to a tree and slowly pull out. Really, you need to fabricate some flat hooks out of 1/4" bar and curve the end so the hook will wrap around the top and another one on the bottom so it won't distort the bumper. It's a 2 hr job and it'll put out so you can't even tell. The fenders are aluminum and you can carefully tweak back into shape as they're so flimsy. To remove the corner lamp, look from under the hood on the inside of the grille and you'll see a round wire about the diameter of a quarter. Pull it up and it'll unhook and you can remove the light to reposition.
Carpets: Easy to clean. Get a bucket of warm/hot soapy water (lots of soap), and your hose and shop vac. Lightly spray the carpet with a fine mist (don't soak), then apply soapy water with a sponge to the carpet. Brush with a short bristle brush until clean. Then spray a decent amount of water (this time soak), then immediately suck out with shop vac. Repeat a couple times. Carpet will come super clean. While you're at it, just take some water and brush the door panels and seat sides too. That way you don't have to worry about making a mess.
Head liner: The only way to fix a sagging headliner is to completely remove it, remove the foam backing (wire brush on a drill works fine), and re-adhere a new piece. The foam itself isn't very expensive ($60), but it's a lot of work. In the mean time, I'd just stick some pins to hold it up until you get the other bugs worked out.
Leak: I bet it is a p/s leak. Mine was (still is) the same way. It appears to be a hose clamp, or the hose itself. It's something I've lived with.
Brake line: Piece of cake.
Seats: Clean as best as possible. Worse case you can use a leather dye or paint/pigment on the drivers bottom. If you really like the rig, you can probably buy a new cover for the bottom from L/R, for a kings ransom.
Motor Tic: Drive it around for a while and see how it goes. It might be from sitting. Mine will tic a little if it sits for a while. If you run some synthetic in it for a year or two it might clean her out pretty well inside. Or flush, but if it's really caked, not sure what that'll do for ya on a really caked motor. See what she lookes like under the valve cover.
Yeah, get the Rave CD (free download at some web site). Quick tip: do a search and open it using my instructions as a lot of guys get confused how to open it. New Adobe acrobat won't work.
Good luck
You know, I don't think it's such a terrible rig. A little TLC and she'll be good again. You'll learn a lot about Land Rovers and hopefully have fun in the process. Please don't get disenfranchised. You bought a rig that has deferred maintenance that is, for the most part, easily repairable if you take your time and apply your mechanical skills:
Bumper/Fender: Mine was exactly same way. It doesn't take much to push in that bumper as the outside is not supported. It's not likethe truck was"wrecked". Just carefully remove that filler piece below the light (a new one is $37 unpainted, so use care to re-use), then remove the lower plastic piece below the bumper and carefully get a chain in there and other end on a come-a-long to a tree and slowly pull out. Really, you need to fabricate some flat hooks out of 1/4" bar and curve the end so the hook will wrap around the top and another one on the bottom so it won't distort the bumper. It's a 2 hr job and it'll put out so you can't even tell. The fenders are aluminum and you can carefully tweak back into shape as they're so flimsy. To remove the corner lamp, look from under the hood on the inside of the grille and you'll see a round wire about the diameter of a quarter. Pull it up and it'll unhook and you can remove the light to reposition.
Carpets: Easy to clean. Get a bucket of warm/hot soapy water (lots of soap), and your hose and shop vac. Lightly spray the carpet with a fine mist (don't soak), then apply soapy water with a sponge to the carpet. Brush with a short bristle brush until clean. Then spray a decent amount of water (this time soak), then immediately suck out with shop vac. Repeat a couple times. Carpet will come super clean. While you're at it, just take some water and brush the door panels and seat sides too. That way you don't have to worry about making a mess.
Head liner: The only way to fix a sagging headliner is to completely remove it, remove the foam backing (wire brush on a drill works fine), and re-adhere a new piece. The foam itself isn't very expensive ($60), but it's a lot of work. In the mean time, I'd just stick some pins to hold it up until you get the other bugs worked out.
Leak: I bet it is a p/s leak. Mine was (still is) the same way. It appears to be a hose clamp, or the hose itself. It's something I've lived with.
Brake line: Piece of cake.
Seats: Clean as best as possible. Worse case you can use a leather dye or paint/pigment on the drivers bottom. If you really like the rig, you can probably buy a new cover for the bottom from L/R, for a kings ransom.
Motor Tic: Drive it around for a while and see how it goes. It might be from sitting. Mine will tic a little if it sits for a while. If you run some synthetic in it for a year or two it might clean her out pretty well inside. Or flush, but if it's really caked, not sure what that'll do for ya on a really caked motor. See what she lookes like under the valve cover.
Yeah, get the Rave CD (free download at some web site). Quick tip: do a search and open it using my instructions as a lot of guys get confused how to open it. New Adobe acrobat won't work.
Good luck
[ul][*]the portion of the fender that's pushed in doesn't appear it will need a come-a-long. It appears to be that filler piece that you mentioned.[*]For the carpert, the plan is to remove and throughly clean. Clean some more, then let it hang in the garage to sir dry.[*]You're correct, the only way to properly fix a head liner is to remove the entireassy, seperate the foam from the board, scrape off the residual glue and padding, spray contact glue then re-attach new foam liner. Depending how the seats and carpet come out dictate if I go this route. If not I'll spot clean the liner, spray contact glue the areas that falling and hope for the best.[*]Did a little investigating on a P/S leak - more info to come later[*]As metioned, brake line should be a cake walk[*]For the seats, that's exactly what I was thinking. Clean the crap out of them and still use dye or pigment paint[*]Motor tick will take time to diagnose and/or repair. I can only hope forr the best[/ul]
And finally the on-line CD. It's funny you mentioned that, because I'm oneof those guys who are confused on how to open it.I tried opening, but couldn't. So my question, is there a difference between the $5 eBay CD's compared to the $20 eBay CD's?