How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
#21
03-13-2008, 07:06 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Do you mean opening the PDFs from the Rave CD? If so, you need to use the Acrobat Reader that's on the CD itself. Most newer versions of Adobe Reader do not open these PDFs - there was a thread here in the last month on the subject. Also, the Rave CD is Windows-only, so if using a Mac you'll need Parallels or VMWare Fusion to emulate Windows.
#22
03-13-2008, 07:10 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Candiman,
Please do a search for a post I made recently on how to do this. Basically included on the the CD Download is a copy of Acrobat 4.0 and you double-click on that (don't install it, just run from CD). Be sure to burn the "Image" file ...don't just burn the file to a CD. Nero has an option for that. Read my post and you'll get it. Works like a champ once you do it right the first time.
Also, it really looks like the bumper is pushed in a little on the passengers side end. I might be wrong, but that's why the filler piece doesn't fit right. Anyway, sounds like you have pretty good skills and can figure it out. Also, no reason to remove the carpet. Auto carpets are plastic-backed. They won't leak through. I've cleaned several and I never remove any. Put a couple small fans in the floor pan afterwards and leave the windows open a little (or more). Don't do it before a rain or foggy day. Seriously, give it a try and put the time it would have taken to remove the carpet towards other work. Well, Best of luck.
Please do a search for a post I made recently on how to do this. Basically included on the the CD Download is a copy of Acrobat 4.0 and you double-click on that (don't install it, just run from CD). Be sure to burn the "Image" file ...don't just burn the file to a CD. Nero has an option for that. Read my post and you'll get it. Works like a champ once you do it right the first time.
Also, it really looks like the bumper is pushed in a little on the passengers side end. I might be wrong, but that's why the filler piece doesn't fit right. Anyway, sounds like you have pretty good skills and can figure it out. Also, no reason to remove the carpet. Auto carpets are plastic-backed. They won't leak through. I've cleaned several and I never remove any. Put a couple small fans in the floor pan afterwards and leave the windows open a little (or more). Don't do it before a rain or foggy day. Seriously, give it a try and put the time it would have taken to remove the carpet towards other work. Well, Best of luck.
#23
03-29-2008, 04:30 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
So today I finally got the Disco in the garage, drop the steering box and took a closer look at the right rear brake assembly. My steering leak is coming from the input shaft of the box.I purchase a rebuild kit from AB and later on this evening I will attempt to rebuild the box. The right rear brake assy was worst than I thought. It wasn't the brake tubing that broke, it was the caliper mount that broke. Which caused it to ratate and take out the dust shield.
From a brief search it appears the rear calipers are interchangeable from left to right. Is that correct?
I plan on putting the micorometer on the rotor tosee if it's within spec.I was alsosurprise to see the front rotors are solid instead of vented.
For now, rear caliper, pads and rotors if needed
This is the infamous power steering clamp that usually leaks, unfortunately for me I'm positive the leak wasn't coming from here. I don't think I'm going to bother changing the clampeither. It's a easy repair if it does start to leak
EDIT
From a brief search it appears the rear calipers are interchangeable from left to right. Is that correct?
I plan on putting the micorometer on the rotor tosee if it's within spec.I was alsosurprise to see the front rotors are solid instead of vented.
For now, rear caliper, pads and rotors if needed
This is the infamous power steering clamp that usually leaks, unfortunately for me I'm positive the leak wasn't coming from here. I don't think I'm going to bother changing the clampeither. It's a easy repair if it does start to leak
EDIT
#24
04-24-2008, 09:07 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Update:
Rebuild steering box
Replace broken rear caliper and 4 wheel brake job (pads and rotor) Also repack bearings and bleed the brakes.
Re-conditioned badly pited wheels
After the wheels dry over night, tomorrow will be my first time actually driving thetruck. The first stop will be the self-service car wash to give the engine compartment and under carraige a goodcleaning.
See you then
Rebuild steering box
Replace broken rear caliper and 4 wheel brake job (pads and rotor) Also repack bearings and bleed the brakes.
Re-conditioned badly pited wheels
After the wheels dry over night, tomorrow will be my first time actually driving thetruck. The first stop will be the self-service car wash to give the engine compartment and under carraige a goodcleaning.
See you then
#26
04-26-2008, 09:13 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Update
Today wasn't a good day, or at least I was hoping it wouldn't have turned out the way it did. As stated, I got the truck knowing it had some sort of liter tap.
After getting the truck back on all four wheels and before driving it to the self-service car wash to pressure clean the engine compartment and under carraige, I wanted toinstall a mechanical oil pressure gauge, just to see exactly what I'm dealing with.
From reading other post I knew I couldn't go down to my local hardware store and pick up the correct fitting for the oil filter housing. So in order to install a fitting for the mechanicl oil pressure gauge I had to think outside the box.
Ipurchase a 1/4" MIP x 2.5" long and a 1/4" FIP x 1/8" FIP from Lowes. Then I cut the 1/4" MIP in half.
In order to cut new threads on the fitting, I had to reduce the OD of the fitting by grinding off some of the material.
Them I used my tap and die set and cut new thread on the fitting (1/2" 20-NF) This is the end that will screw into the oil filter housing.
With my fitting in the filter housing, I was able to install the tubing for the mechanical gauge.
For diagnostic purpose I mounted the gauge in the engine compartment (Sunpro gauge)
The installation of the oil pressure gauge went very well. That's the good, now for the bad.My oil pressure was very low.When I first started the engine it was at 10psi. I already had a can of engine flush so I added that to see if it would make a difference.After 7-10 minutes of idling, no difference, still 10psi. I went to the auto store and got 6qts of ATF and a generic oil filter. Drained the engine oil, changed the filter.Added 6qts of ATF and new filter. Started the engine and still 10psi. After idling for a coupleminutes,I thought I notice the pressure increase by 2-3 psi (maybe that was wishfull thinking in my head) I let the engine idle for about 30-40 minutes while keeping a eye on the gauge. At that point the pressure drop to 5psi and I shut it off.
I already knew there are several gaskets and seals that neededto be changed (valve cover, front crank seal, engine oil pan, trans oil pan, etc) The plan was to pressure clean the engine compartment and under carriagebefore changing those gaskets and seals. Why work on a dirty engine if you can avoid it.
But now it appears I will be dropping the oil pan and valve covers to do some exploratory surgery and cleaning.
The saga continues
Today wasn't a good day, or at least I was hoping it wouldn't have turned out the way it did. As stated, I got the truck knowing it had some sort of liter tap.
After getting the truck back on all four wheels and before driving it to the self-service car wash to pressure clean the engine compartment and under carraige, I wanted toinstall a mechanical oil pressure gauge, just to see exactly what I'm dealing with.
From reading other post I knew I couldn't go down to my local hardware store and pick up the correct fitting for the oil filter housing. So in order to install a fitting for the mechanicl oil pressure gauge I had to think outside the box.
Ipurchase a 1/4" MIP x 2.5" long and a 1/4" FIP x 1/8" FIP from Lowes. Then I cut the 1/4" MIP in half.
In order to cut new threads on the fitting, I had to reduce the OD of the fitting by grinding off some of the material.
Them I used my tap and die set and cut new thread on the fitting (1/2" 20-NF) This is the end that will screw into the oil filter housing.
With my fitting in the filter housing, I was able to install the tubing for the mechanical gauge.
For diagnostic purpose I mounted the gauge in the engine compartment (Sunpro gauge)
The installation of the oil pressure gauge went very well. That's the good, now for the bad.My oil pressure was very low.When I first started the engine it was at 10psi. I already had a can of engine flush so I added that to see if it would make a difference.After 7-10 minutes of idling, no difference, still 10psi. I went to the auto store and got 6qts of ATF and a generic oil filter. Drained the engine oil, changed the filter.Added 6qts of ATF and new filter. Started the engine and still 10psi. After idling for a coupleminutes,I thought I notice the pressure increase by 2-3 psi (maybe that was wishfull thinking in my head) I let the engine idle for about 30-40 minutes while keeping a eye on the gauge. At that point the pressure drop to 5psi and I shut it off.
I already knew there are several gaskets and seals that neededto be changed (valve cover, front crank seal, engine oil pan, trans oil pan, etc) The plan was to pressure clean the engine compartment and under carriagebefore changing those gaskets and seals. Why work on a dirty engine if you can avoid it.
But now it appears I will be dropping the oil pan and valve covers to do some exploratory surgery and cleaning.
The saga continues
#27
04-29-2008, 09:51 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Today I drop the oil pan and I'm found whymy oil pressure was low. Old fashion engine gunk clogged the pick-up tube. There's not enough brake clean in the world that can clean this pan. I definately need to fin someone with a hot tank.
Can we say varnish
Before dropping the oil pan I also did a compression test to see what's happening. Cylinder #1was the only cylinder within specs (169-179psi) The other cylinders range from 190psi to 220psi
It's safe to assume the higher compression readings are proably due to carbon buiild up on the pistions.
Most folks would probably stop right here and fix what's broken. With me being such a **** guy sometimes, I can't help but to thinkabout the Six Million Dollar Man "we can make him better, stronger, faster" Besides, if the bottom end looks like this, I don;t have to imagine too hard on how the top end might look like.
Tomorrow I'll probably remove a couple of connecting rod caps for a closer inspection of the journals and bearing. I'm not going to bother inspection the main bearings and journals because the main bearing caps have those side bolts and I dont want to disturb the seal. Besides,rod bearingstake more punishment compared to the main bearings.
After inspecting the rod bearings, then I'll decide if the engine is coming out or not.
Can we say varnish
Before dropping the oil pan I also did a compression test to see what's happening. Cylinder #1was the only cylinder within specs (169-179psi) The other cylinders range from 190psi to 220psi
It's safe to assume the higher compression readings are proably due to carbon buiild up on the pistions.
Most folks would probably stop right here and fix what's broken. With me being such a **** guy sometimes, I can't help but to thinkabout the Six Million Dollar Man "we can make him better, stronger, faster" Besides, if the bottom end looks like this, I don;t have to imagine too hard on how the top end might look like.
Tomorrow I'll probably remove a couple of connecting rod caps for a closer inspection of the journals and bearing. I'm not going to bother inspection the main bearings and journals because the main bearing caps have those side bolts and I dont want to disturb the seal. Besides,rod bearingstake more punishment compared to the main bearings.
After inspecting the rod bearings, then I'll decide if the engine is coming out or not.
#28
04-29-2008, 10:11 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
ORIGINAL: lgoodbar
Do you mean opening the PDFs from the Rave CD? If so, you need to use the Acrobat Reader that's on the CD itself. Most newer versions of Adobe Reader do not open these PDFs - there was a thread here in the last month on the subject. Also, the Rave CD is Windows-only, so if using a Mac you'll need Parallels or VMWare Fusion to emulate Windows.
Do you mean opening the PDFs from the Rave CD? If so, you need to use the Acrobat Reader that's on the CD itself. Most newer versions of Adobe Reader do not open these PDFs - there was a thread here in the last month on the subject. Also, the Rave CD is Windows-only, so if using a Mac you'll need Parallels or VMWare Fusion to emulate Windows.
The Rave CD works JUST FINE on the current version of Mac OS-X. All Macintosh operating systems have a PDF reader software built-in called Preview. Just click on the PDF and it opens up easy as you please in Preview. I have the RAVE CD on my Macintosh, and I can access all the features, and I do not have Parallels or Fusion.
The whole "idea" behind a PDF (Portable Document Format) was to have complete cross platform compatibility.
#29
04-30-2008, 03:37 PM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
Keep the pictures and tutorial coming. I love reading along with your adventure! Might just quit buying Land Rover Monthly now!
From where I sit, here's how I break it down, you're probably right, it's probably got build-up on the pistons. That can 'easily' be removed with wire brush on a drill and some creative chiseling, BUT... you're right if you have to remove the intake and heads, and you already have the pan off, you are 4/5ths of the way to just pulling the mill out anyway. At that point, one would be tempted to hot-tank everything, and go through the motor and heads provided the budget will allow. If the cylinders are ok, and valve guides aren't junk, the cost wouldn't necessarily be stratospheric. My take is I'd get some plasti-gauge on the rod bearings to MEASURE what the wear is.
From where I sit, here's how I break it down, you're probably right, it's probably got build-up on the pistons. That can 'easily' be removed with wire brush on a drill and some creative chiseling, BUT... you're right if you have to remove the intake and heads, and you already have the pan off, you are 4/5ths of the way to just pulling the mill out anyway. At that point, one would be tempted to hot-tank everything, and go through the motor and heads provided the budget will allow. If the cylinders are ok, and valve guides aren't junk, the cost wouldn't necessarily be stratospheric. My take is I'd get some plasti-gauge on the rod bearings to MEASURE what the wear is.
#30
05-01-2008, 10:47 AM
RE: How much would you pay for this 98 Disco?
ORIGINAL: Mark G
Keep the pictures and tutorial coming. I love reading along with your adventure! Might just quit buying Land Rover Monthly now!
From where I sit, here's how I break it down, you're probably right, it's probably got build-up on the pistons. That can 'easily' be removed with wire brush on a drill and some creative chiseling, BUT... you're right if you have to remove the intake and heads, and you already have the pan off, you are 4/5ths of the way to just pulling the mill out anyway. At that point, one would be tempted to hot-tank everything, and go through the motor and heads provided the budget will allow. If the cylinders are ok, and valve guides aren't junk, the cost wouldn't necessarily be stratospheric. My take is I'd get some plasti-gauge on the rod bearings to MEASURE what the wear is.
Keep the pictures and tutorial coming. I love reading along with your adventure! Might just quit buying Land Rover Monthly now!
From where I sit, here's how I break it down, you're probably right, it's probably got build-up on the pistons. That can 'easily' be removed with wire brush on a drill and some creative chiseling, BUT... you're right if you have to remove the intake and heads, and you already have the pan off, you are 4/5ths of the way to just pulling the mill out anyway. At that point, one would be tempted to hot-tank everything, and go through the motor and heads provided the budget will allow. If the cylinders are ok, and valve guides aren't junk, the cost wouldn't necessarily be stratospheric. My take is I'd get some plasti-gauge on the rod bearings to MEASURE what the wear is.
If you find the torque specs for me I'll be more than happy to continue the tutorial [sm=smiley20.gif]