Go to homepage for update, page 5 and 6

 

What's prevent you from trying? Rover manual is free, Harbor Freight tools will work and are affordable, you have a bunch of experts gathered togetheron this forummore thanwilling to help out. What am I missing? I'd encourage you to give it a shot.

 

I would like to post more pics and update. With the forum acting the way it is, it would be a gamble if it worked.

Before hooking up the exhaust manifold, I traced the gasket outline incase one of you wanted to port your exhaust manifold. compared to the intake flow, theexhaust flow was matched pretty well from the factory.Keep in mind, I did not port match the exhaust side. I only did the intake side which needed more work.





Changed the front crank seal





Also cleaned the harmonic balancer snout. No need putting a new seal on a dirty snout.





When installing the head bolts, the says to do it in two stages.First state is 20 Nm (15ft lbs) then the second stage is 180* degree. It's definately not a good idea to install the head bolts in two stages. Do three stages instead. 15ft lbs, 90* degree then another 90* degree. After torqueing the botls to 15ft lbs, I used a center punch to index the bolt head. This bolt was indexed at 12 o-clock and after two 908 degree turns, I ended up at the 6 o-clock position



The heads are back on.



The above pic was taken several days ago. As of right now, coolant is back in the engine and the fuel syatem have been primed with no fuel leaks.Everything in the negine compartment is back together.I left ofoil pan offovernight to see if coolantwill leak into the oil.

More cleaning, the plenum and throttle body















How thinks I should do a Sea Foam treatment after I get the engine running?

Also pick up a PCV kit




EDIT: What do you know, it posted without a error message, enjoy.

 

I did forget one thing. Can someone tell me where this heat shield goes. I seem to have forgotten. I thought it went behind the AC compressor, but the exhaust manifold bolt does not fit through the hole



Also, are the D-one's diificult to bleed the coolant sytem like the D-two's?Right now the front end is on jack stands, which would put the radiator plug at the highest elevation. With the coolant reservoir cap off, I filledthrough the radiator plug. With the reservoir cap and plug out, I'm letting it sit overnight just like that.

 

Start the truck and let it warm up with the bleed screw out. Once your thermostat opens, it will suck coolant down and fill up your top hose. Then re-install the bleed screw and fill the reservoir.

What kind of antifreeze are you using?

I'll check on the heat shield in a sec...

 

On the heat shield bolts under the manifold I will have to look to see where.

 

Here you go. The hole bolts on the bottom bolt of the compressor

[IMG]local://upfiles/5440/3E533B5F2390497E93046FAE0CC497FF.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thank you Sir, I was close

 

It bolts to the ac compressor.

[IMG]local://upfiles/649/645BCC6DF5874A63890ABCAFE7E7893E.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks Landzu, okdiscoguy mentioned the same location.

Update:
In my mad scientist voice, she's alive, she's alive, she's alive.

The oil pressure has increased to 20psi but it's still under the 30-40psi spec. I'm still getting a valve tap on the left bank. I distinctively remember that same valve tap noise before I took it apart. Back then I didn't try to determine which valve was tapping because I knew what my intentions were. I probably have a collapse lifter. I can also feel and hear a slight engine miss.

During my tear down process I do remember the #3 plug being fouled with excesscarbon build. The exhaust manifold port for that cylinder also had excessive carbon. All evidence of that cylinder not contributing properly.

After I had the heads off and during my cleaning and inspection process I did notice a couplecamshaft lobes appeared to be worn.So now I'm heading back in, it's unfortunate, but necessary.

The new plan is to change the camshaft,lifters and oil pump. On most most RWD overhead valve engines like ours, sometimes you have enough room to pull the camshaft without taking out the engine.

That's what I'm asking. Can anyone confirm once the radiator assembly is remove and possibly the AC condensor (hopefully within discharging the freon) will there be enough room to pull out the camshaft?

I did a search on "camshaft" and came across a post by Geoman.It's unrelated to my camshaft question, but a very important post dealing with our engines.

There are a couple things to mention regarding the engine noise. First when Land Rover moved to a distributor-less ignition, they no longer controlled the end-float of the camshaft with a helical gear (that used to drive the Distributor). They had a problem with "Camshaft walk" that would produce a noise as you describe. They then had a TSB to check the end-float,and there was a nylon "bumper" installed to control the walking. In subsequent years they had a thrust plate design to locate the Camshaft, but it was found that when engines accumulated miles, either because of a bad heat treat of the friction surfaces, or just inadequate manufacturing tolerances - the gap would widen, and the noise would occur. The fix then was to replace the camshaft. So you may be experiencing the beginning of a Cam-bump noise because of too much end float. Not really a major problem, but it will wear the timing chain and gears prematurely, and cause a little slip in cam timing.

Secondly the rocker arms and shafts that they pivot on- are a known weak area on these engines. As are the tappets (cam followers). Because this is a hydraulic valve train with no adjustment, the only fix for what some would describe as sounding like "too much valve lash" is to re-new the rocker shafts and arms- and in some cases fit a new set of lifters. Now to complicate things further, there is some evidence to support the theory that the reason for the premature wear on the valvetrain componentsmay be compoundedby oil pressure delivered from the pump in the front timing cover is not beingwithin spec. The "bottom end" on these motors is pretty tough, but oil pressure finds its way to the valve train later on in the circuit, and so any sustained pressure below spec can aggravate things. We have gone through a total changeout of valve-train components in an attempt to cure a engine tick, only to find out that the oil pump housing was scored, and had to replace the assembly.

This is why those of us that frequently contribute to this forum recommend that a oil pressure gage be fitted to the front timing case cover where the oil pressure sending unit screws in and the actual values recorded (cold engine at idle, warm engine at idle, 2500 rpm value, etc.) - if unusual engine noises are present.

The bottom line here is that oil change intervalsare VERY important on the Land Rover engine. And so is the quality of the oil used.

And - the recommendation to take a oil sample and have it sent in for analysis is a good one. Private pilots do this on their Lycomings and Continental engines as a matter of regular practice so they can assess the overall condition of their engine, and avert potential disasters. It used to be considered a little overkill for street-drivenautomotive engines. But have you priced the cost of a replacement engine for a Land Rover recently? Think in the range of $8500-10,000 and all of a sudden a $29.00 oil analysis doesn't sound out of line.

Regards,

Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com


Stay tune, the saga continues.