Didn't see the radiator list at first.
Did you replace the viscus, if so, who's did you use, what about your electronic fan, is it coming on a 212 degrees?
If that is all good, then I would consider doing a pressure test and possibly a chemical block test to verify the head gaskets.

 

Since I changed all my hoses and put in the brass BMW bleed screw, flushed the engine and replaced with the green antifreeze and a bottle of Purple Ice my temps have not reached over 204. However I have not been through the Texas Summer yet.

I do a lot of in town driving and sitting in traffic. So I just purchased a Motorad 180 thermostat and plan on dropping it in next week.

MOTORAD 439-180 Thermostat | eBay

 

Yep, new viscus and fan. Got it from AB. Went with the regular and not the Severe Duty one. Last year I had switched to the heavy duty one to see if it made a difference, and it did not. I had a new radiator and all at that point too. The fan itself was not in good shape, so I went back to the factory clutch and a brand new fan. After some other issues, the truck has both a brand new fan and clutch. The electric fan turns on at 212 as it should.
I did a pressure test before putting all the new parts on, and once again after. It is all good. The head gaskets were done about 20K ago, and no issues there. I have never once lost a drop of coolant or had to add. I have also sat in traffic at 100 degrees outside and never overheated.
This has been a head scratching event for a while now. Everything points to things working at 100%. She has never had any codes, the fuel economy is good, etc. Then engine has a tick, which sounds more like the driver's side exhaust, but not sure about that.

 

You just take the connection off and put water one direction, then the other. Heater core that is built up with crud on inside would still flow enough water for heat, but might flow a little less, and your stat might be late opening up. One way to rule out the core is bypass it. IMHO change heater core flow, and that would change flow of metered coolant into the top holes in thermostat, which changes how fast thermostat opens.

Fans are rotating correct direction, paper sucks toward grille, not blown away?

Flash light can be seen thru AC condenser and tranny cooler / oil cooler (if equipped)? Fins are not clogged with gumbo? Tranny fluid full and current on changes?

Unplug engine coolant temps sensor and see what temp is shown by Ultra Gauge scanner. Should be something like -40F. Grounded or shorted ECT wiring could throw readings off. If it still read say 50 degrees, that's a problem.

 

Yes to all... fan is going the right way and sucks plenty hard even at idle. I washed the AC good front and back last time the rad was out, and the trans/oil coolers got cleaned when out for the new rad. Trans fluid is new (changed 3 times in the last year so should be just about 100% new). Temp sensor is new, clean and good.
The heater core was flushed...but I might do that again and the bypass to see.

 

Being OCD about temp, if I owned a D2 (and I will never be that rich) I'd stick that alternate temp stat on, or the in-line stat. The heater bypass is looking at all that is left, unless block is clogged up (dexcool sludge), or cracked, or head cracked. But exhaust gas in coolant tests would show that up.

 

But you are missing out on all the fun, who needs simple mechanics when you can add complicated electronics?

 

See https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...l500110-49525/ for results on alternate temps soft spring stat....

 

See my post on pel500110 I was in your same boat. I replace the complete front cooling system, (EVERTHING) still very high temps. Now 191-192 at idle, and 187-192 at cruise all day long 100f did not matter. Rimmer bros had it, and best of all came in ome landrover box.