Welding cast aluminum is not nearly as difficult as cast steel or iron. I work for a large machine manufacturer in Lynchburg and we source a lot of fabricated components locally, I can ask our supply chain guys about local aluminum Fab shops if you are thinking about that route.

 

I really appreciate that, but at this point, I'm not ready to sink that kind of money in this block.
I know a guy who is an amazing tig welder, but he doesn't have alot of free time for side work, and it won't be cheap(and I wouldn't expect it to be either).
Thanks

 

I'm sorry, but this is getting ridiculously blown overboard...a quality sealant would seal that small/tinny defect in the block...no problem...period.

Do what you want...but welding that and then having it machined is a total waste of time/energy/money.

Brian.

 

I agree with that.
Tig and bore, or weld on plates is ideal.
But since I can't tig weld, and don't want to pour money in this old block, UG sealant and JB weld sounds like the way to go.
Or, I can part out the engine and go LS, but that's $5k+ I'm not ready to spend on it yet either.

I have no use for stupid people.
Yes, dummy me overlooked this before putting the engine back in, but Kowalsky Machine has proven what a bunch of half *** hacks they are.
Shame on me for having faith in their quality of work.

I appreciate everyone's help and input.
Thank you

 

A Dorman HELP! brand rubber expansion plug and a little ultra-gray will fix that.

 

I wouldn't trust a rubber plug, especially on the back of the block where I can't see it.

 

 

How would I fix that ? I would consider threading for a
----> https://www.pipefittingsdirect.com/c...-plug_200.jpeg
---->
but I prefer
----> https://www.google.com/search?q=rubb...w=1366&bih=549

 

No way, I'm not using a rubber plug in it.
As for a threaded plug, it's not a bad idea, but I can't imagine what a 2"+ diameter tap costs(regardless of thread size used)...and it won't be easy to thread either.
Thanks anyway