My blower motor stopped working recently. It will rarely come on for a few seconds then shut off but most of the time it does nothing.

Here is what I have found so far:

- motor turns when connected to battery

- 14v on high and ~12v on all other settings at multiplug going to the motor but not enough current to turn on a test light.

- 14v at 30A fuse under dash but also not enough current to turn on a test light.

- The 100A fused link under hood has voltage and enough power to turn on my test light.

All I can guess is there is a bad connection at one of the two fuse boxes or somewhere in between. Has anybody else had this problem?

 

Same thing happened to me, i never found out what was the cause but i made a work around thats been working for a year now. I just ran a positive wire from the battery to the positive on the motor itself. It turns on and off like normal and the different speeds work as it should also.

 

I had problems with the blower motor and the radio for awhile. I found a good thump on the center of the dash (top) and it would come back on. Ended up pulling the heater control out and cleaning up the fan switch, and the connections for the wires. Has been working great for 5 months so far.

Seems like just about every problem I have had with electrical has been burned connections or bad wires. The electrical manual is a good tool once you figure out how to read it.

 

Here is the thread where I fixed mine. It was fuse block problem.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...working-61720/

 

I had time to fix my heater today after way too many cold rides to class. I did a little more probing with my test light and found that I was loosing current between the fuse under the dash and the resister pack before the fan (most likely culprit was the fusebox). I decided to just run a new wire to the resister pack instead of taking apart the fuse box.

I went to NAPA and grabbed some 14 gauge wire and a fuse holder and ran a wire from the 100A fuse under the hood through the firewall and into the multi-plug that goes to the resister pack. I used the fuse holder with the 30A fuse from under the dash to provide the same safety as the fuse box under the dash I was bypassing. When I got it all together it worked like new.

 

I had the same problem, the heater blower quit in -30C weather. Fortunately I live close to work and my seat heater works!!!

I opened up the passenger side, removed the kick panel and the glove box. With the ignition on and the heater set to defrost for the windshield, there was no power at the motor or at the resistor pack. I moved to the drivers side and opened up the fuse panel. Fuse #7 (30A 7 down on the left side) was dead. I used my test lamp with the ground side clipped on to the bolt at the top of the fuse panel and checked, there were 2 or 3 fuses that had no power.
With the ignition still on and the fan still on defrost, I used a punch awl as a probe, clipped on the ground lead from the test lamp and jumped from one live fuse to fuse 7. The test light lit up telling me the fuse block on was good. British cars typically used switched grounds as opposed to switched live like NA cars. I then cycled from off through the fan settings low to high and watched the test lamp brightness change.... this told me the resistor pack was still good, so the problem is no power is getting to the fuse block.

Being still damn cold out, I did not want to screw with fixing the block right now, so I did a bump test. i used a wire and jumped from a known good 30 A to Fuse 7 and low and behold the blower starts. I bought some 12 ga and an inline fuse holder and ran a bypass as follows.

- I removed one of the screws on the downstream (engine) side of FL4. The link is blue in my truck and it is the rear most of three right at the from of the power panel under the hood. (I believe it is identified on the underside of the lid)
- I put a ring terminal on one lead from the fuse holder and fastened it to the fuselink 4 with the hold down screw.
- I ran a pice of 12 ga from the passenger compartment to the engine bay through the grommet at the back of the engine bay near the passenger fender.
- I soldered this line to the other end of the fuse holder and routed it adjacent to the main power and out of the box.
- I snaked the wire across the underside of the dash (this was a pain in the backside!!!)
- At the fuse box end I crimped on a spade connector I had already cut down and filed to the same width as the fuse spades.
- This was then inserted in to the leftmost slot of the fuse 7 fuse holder.
- insert the 30 A fuse in the inline holder under the hood.

Voila, your heater fan should now work, when the warm weather comes I will pull the fuse block and screw around with it then. good hunting with your electrical woes and please ... use fuses!