x3

It is easy to remove the tank, and raising it up several inches so it is the highest point in the engine room really helps burp the system.

 

its actually a little more than just lifting the tank you have to work with it. If you just raise it you can kink the hoses and lines and you will not get the air out. I find I have to rock mine back and forth slowly and as i do that I call hear the air coming into the tank and watch the coolant level drop.

 

So is the car running when you do this with the tank? Mind you this is me asking not Patrick, he may know that already.

So while we are working on the air problem, can I still drive it?

 

Normally the engine isn't running when bleeding these systems. A little different than some other cars.

 

IMHO you can drive it, keep an eye on the temp gauge, and have that prince of a guy you married check the coolant level every day until you consider it resolved. Because of the change in the plumbing with the in-line stat, you may have to run car as well when adding coolant.

 

Sounds good. I'm not a fan of the in line thermostat, when it is sitting idle the heat doesn't come out, just cold air. Then when you get the RPM's up the heat pours out.

My thought, What if I lived in Alaska? and needed to defrost my truck? So much for warming up the Rover in the morning.

 

Let me know which post or link he used for the plans for the in-line, might have an idea.

 

K, I will ask him

 

i'm sorry i hadn't read that you did an inline thermostat. I do not believe you can use the factory bleeding process. Your truck will need to be running to bleed the system of air.

Most of the conversions that i have seen have added a bleeeder in line as well as the thermostat. You see you must bleed from the highest most point in the system.In a stock system that meens raising the tank so that it is the highest pont in the system.

Installing the inline thermostat most certianly made "it" the highest point in the system, the inline thermostat housing that he installed should have had a bleed port in it at the top.

I disagree with Buzz; you have a huge air pocket in the system which is why you get no heat untill you race the engine and it forces the air out of the heater core, then you get heat.

Now that air pocket has been pushed somewhere else in the system and that could very well be sitting under the sensor for the gauge. You can watch your gauge all you want but if the sensor is not sitting in water it will just read normal.

Many trucks over heat and the gauge does not move because there is not enough water in the system to measure the heat.

Your husband may want to borrow a preasure tester and see if he preasurizes the system cold maybe can he force the air out from a different location, like say the connection before the inline thermostat. It will be messy and he will lose coolant, but he will also hopfully force most of the air out also.

JMHO

 

Yep, if no bleeder, could have a big air bubble, which when it moves around makes the water rushing sound. See pix of an in-line mod with the bleeder valve. The small bleed hole in stat should keep it moving and avoid the steam room at the top of the intake manifold where the coolant sensor is.

The other thing I thought might be an issue is where the return pipe form the heater core attaches. In the attached shop drawing, #4 should be in original position. But where does #9 connect?

# 16 (old stat) is now gone? What about # 17?

If bubble is removed, and no heat / full heat keeps on, might consider adding three additional holes to the new thermostat. The old one had four holes, and some of that water flow balanced the flow going into the heater core.

And of course the new stat should have the coil spring side of it toward #8 in the drawing.