So your saying it is not likely at 160,000 miles for the timing chain to skip a tooth? What about accel wires? They are racing wires too right? I'd hate to only have to buy stealership parts. And if that's the case, i'm looking for a part time job at LR lol. I'm checking the timing tomorrow and hopefully this will shed some light on the subject.

 

$152 (Actually I paid $139) is the price for the whole set of 8 wires.

$152/wire would be the cost for the Space shuttle! lol

It should be noted that I also upgraded the entire ignition to MSD. MSD multispark ignition module, MSD Cap/Rotor/Coil. Vitek wires, and E3 spark plugs. $400 investment for a gain of 3mpg city. Probably not worth it for many, but I like how she purrs perfectly! I've not yet been able to determine my Hwy mpg gains - but have a fantasy of hitting 18mpg on a trip down to a hot springs in Oregon in 3 weeks! - will report if it's a dud or not.....

 

Okay, I understand that Magnecor wires are preferred by many, they are most likely great wires - perhaps the best but, are they the best wires for the money? Are they the best value? I think not. click on the link and read the specs for STI wires then compare that to the Magnecor site. They look pretty similar to me - FOR HALF THE PRICE. Biggest difference I see between them is that Magnecor says it resists heat to 500 degrees compared to STI's 600.

I just put a new set of STI's on my truck when my head gaskets were replaced, replacing a set that had been on close to three years. I thought about going with Magnecor for longevity reasons but after comparing the two I just couldn't justify it. Besides, before the next three years are up I'm sure my truck will give me another opportunity to replace the wires when it's torn down again.

Sorry to be contrary but for a group as cheap as this other perfectly good options are available besides Magnecor and Bosch.


http://www.karlynsti.com/Folders/Kar..._Wire_Sets.htm

 

I've actually got STI plug-wires on my truck. When they did the head-gasket at 45k I went ahead and did plug-wires and serpentine belt then. My private tech worked for LR for 9yrs, is a LR Certified Master Tech, and says he's been using the STI wires for years without incident. The price was right, and the wires have been great so far. I just turned 55k yesterday, so I've got 10,000 miles and 6 months on the wires so far.

 

Exactly. I've had them three years and my (very busy shop) shop says the same thing about them. Perhaps they are not quite as good as the Magnecor's but still, a better value for the money in my book. I looked at my old STI's after they took them off and they still looked and worked fine after nearly three years of Texas heat. when someone says "these are what you have to get" I want to see data that supports it.

Also, my shop agrees that the Land Rover wires suck big time so they at least have some standards ....

 

By the way, my land rover has sti wires on it. Even though they are shot. I took out all the plugs, cleaned the electrode and ground, and regapped them. THey were at .065-.070 because they were so far worn. IT STARTED. But my g/f's dad had to retard the timing almost 30 degrees. So i don't know if the chain skipped (not likely) or the P.O. put the distributer in off a tooth or so?

 

The diso has no spark. The ohms between the neg and pos primary terminals on the coil is about 1.4 ohms? I have no power to the coil... when i did the check as the alldata program stated, i should have less voltage between neg battery terminal and both primary terminals on the coil. than the battery voltage. I have no voltage. How often does the ignition system relay go out? any common problems here?

 

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1856.cfm

 

AHA. I was reading in the service bulletins and looking at the diagrams and i couldn't figure out why my amplifier was by my coil and not on the distributer. So it has already had that upgrade. So maybe the wiring harness along with the amplifier relocation is not correctly hooked up? I had it running without the serpentine belt on. SHut off. then put belt on and reseated the cap on the distributer (not snapped down all the way), then i had no spark. My alarm did go off, but i put the key in the door to unlock it and that shut it off. Could that be part of the problem? or does the alarm only disable the starter? IS there any sensors that would disable my ignition? The service engine light comes on when i turn the key to the on position, then shuts off after 3 or so seconds to show there is no "problem"

 

The alarm kills power to the fuel pump.
Setting it off and then turning it off should not affect anything if done once, if you do it 3 times in a row different story.
Take the distibitor cap back off and see if you didnt break the rotor or dis lodge it in some way or some such.
The after market rotors for thses trucks are very fragile, the OEM is a better choice.
If you had spark then messed with the distibitor then you dont have spark I would lean towards the distibitor.