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I plug welded a customers sleeves.

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  #21  
Old 06-08-2015, 03:43 PM
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I think this is a great example of thinking outside the box. Im not sure why it would be a temporary fix. If this approach works it could be a boon for Disco owners.

Welding to iron with stainless filler is the way i have always welded rear axles in high torque applications. Pre heat the cast differential, and TIG the steel axle tubes to the iron diff. It works and stainless stick is what i use. The welds are strong and will take abuse. Im talking for 8.8 Ford rear ends with 500+ hp.. This is common practice.

If i ever open my engine up to do HG, i would do this if i found a slipping sleeve. I think you could, depending on the cylinder, do this repair with the motor in the truck. In my case it would cost me some electricity.

You can say its a $1500 reair but realistically, if you are already tearing the engine down for a HG job, the repair could be done for a couple dollars more.
 
  #22  
Old 06-08-2015, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BusaRider
I think this is a great example of thinking outside the box. Im not sure why it would be a temporary fix. If this approach works it could be a boon for Disco owners.

Welding to iron with stainless filler is the way i have always welded rear axles in high torque applications. Pre heat the cast differential, and TIG the steel axle tubes to the iron diff. It works and stainless stick is what i use. The welds are strong and will take abuse. Im talking for 8.8 Ford rear ends with 500+ hp.. This is common practice.

If i ever open my engine up to do HG, i would do this if i found a slipping sleeve. I think you could, depending on the cylinder, do this repair with the motor in the truck. In my case it would cost me some electricity.

You can say its a $1500 reair but realistically, if you are already tearing the engine down for a HG job, the repair could be done for a couple dollars more.
If you have the heads off it would be easier. Still have to drop the oil pan, starter, and y pipe. And motor mounts and motor mount mounts.
 

Last edited by RoverMasterTech; 06-08-2015 at 07:26 PM.
  #23  
Old 06-08-2015, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
For a top hatted block not engine(As I stated above)

Apprently whomever you do work for is only conserned with the noise not the state of the engine.
The block was junk before your got to it so i guess its a good test mule.
But it sounds like another temp. fix for a premenent problem.
The motor in the picture is a junk one I had laying around that I practiced on. The customer drove his car to my shop and I performed the repair on his engine, while it was in his car. His block wasn't junk, it ran and drove fine except for the tap tap tap tap that was LOUD.
 
  #24  
Old 06-08-2015, 04:45 PM
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How many hours labor?
 
  #25  
Old 06-08-2015, 06:41 PM
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This is pretty damn clever.

Well done.
 
  #26  
Old 06-09-2015, 01:10 AM
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Anybody can have a good idea or a bad ide...(bag ones out)... BUT.. The good ones are only as good as the person performing it!! So not everyone can do the same job and get the same result's. Everyone knows best execution of any work depend on practice , skills & talent . "TecH" practiced on a bad block, so he can fine tune his work, and when confident that he can make it work, he tested his idea in a running engine & it worked. Will it work for 2weeks ? Will it work for 10years?
It really doesn't matter, the fact is that a lot of people might have been thinking about similar fixes, but they didn't have ,experience , skill's , equipment ,or guts to do it!
Lots of people can weld, a lot more can drill, but, being able to do a job perfect & get results.. Depends highly on the person doing it. So please don't tell me that "everybody" can do the same thing he did, but there could be a few more talented people that can practice & get similar results.
And if this engine fails for any welding reasons,in 2nd he will make improvement until perfect. If you don't try, you will never get any results, good or bad. I have done lots of radical fixes and idea's on different engines/equipment , that some laughed at first, because it had not done before.
How long can An engines with slipped liner be good for? Months or years?
So maybe after a few engines , this fix will show if it's the right choice for the problem or not, and he is putting his reputation on line by offering this fix to a his customer.
(Because he is confident of his work, & that's very important)
 
  #27  
Old 06-09-2015, 06:08 AM
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I guess you could just take the heads off and smash the the block and sleeve with a cold chisel to lock them in.

or remove the sleeves and glue them in, (that doesn't work they a compression fit)

drill and pin the liners (depend a lot on who is doing it)

what happen when the liners start to move again is the welded plug going to ware a slot in the aluminium block? of course it is. (but the block is junk now anyway)

THEY ARE ALL of them are temporary solution to a permanent problem, IMHO.
what cause the liner to move to begin with?if you haven't fixed that problem everything else is mute.

its no different than some installing top hats with out fixing the block first (just run some slurry in there it will be fine)

i think what bother me more is you said it had a good block to start with, well he certainly doesn't now.

i give you credit you do try, you just haven't reached the brass ring yet

and your customers they deserve credit too.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 06-09-2015 at 09:12 AM.
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  #28  
Old 06-09-2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Lowest Bidder
That's creative! A little crude maybe, but if it works in the long term, why not?
I take my comment back! Looking at the pictures it doesn't look crude at all to me.
 
  #29  
Old 06-09-2015, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
...its no different than some installing top hats with out fixing the block first (just run some slurry in there it will be fine)...
I have to disagree with you here. If you install the Darton top hat liners featuring an o-ring at the base the cylinders are completely sealed top and bottom, so it does not matter if the block's cylinder bores have cracks, pin holes or other small compromises. Top hat installation IS a permanent fix for both slipping liners AND high-pressure gassing/overheating issues on this block. That's why it costs $1,500.
 

Last edited by Fast951; 06-09-2015 at 10:40 AM.
  #30  
Old 06-09-2015, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
what happen when the liners start to move again is the welded plug going to ware a slot in the aluminium block? .
My feeling is that this method will be quite resistant to movement. It's no different to pinning with machine screws. Just without the threads. Assuming it's done decent enough. Without any initial movement, the ally can't start to wear.

Liners slip in the first instance due to reasons well discussed here. But I'm guessing Its because there was no mechanical fix, only a good tolerance fit. This is a mechanical fixing.

Totally agree. It's only as good as the person doing it. And time will tell in the longevity of a repair like this.
 


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