I plug welded a customers sleeves.
#31
FAST951
i will have to disagree with you there, just how long is the that o-ring going to last,
with hot coolant and combustion gas beating away at it on every stroke.
even with top hats you have to repair the block, the top hats only make the block salvageable.
all the good re-manufactures all talk about repairing the block, before boring it and installing the liner.
they are not installing liners over cracked cylinder or bolt holes.
if they are you need to find another place
i will have to disagree with you there, just how long is the that o-ring going to last,
with hot coolant and combustion gas beating away at it on every stroke.
even with top hats you have to repair the block, the top hats only make the block salvageable.
all the good re-manufactures all talk about repairing the block, before boring it and installing the liner.
they are not installing liners over cracked cylinder or bolt holes.
if they are you need to find another place
Last edited by drowssap; 06-09-2015 at 11:09 AM.
#32
With the low pressure of the oiling system (30#) and the low pressure of the cooling system (20#) an o-ring can last 500K miles. If the rest of the truck goes that long then other cracks will develop in the cylinder bores of this poorly engineered block casting. So, I guess you can continue to remove the engine and check for (and repair) cracks every 50K miles. Net zero gain - sounds like a sincere waste of time to me.
#33
just with out thread exactly, so when this plug weld cools it is not going to shrink, of course it is. and seeing as it is not fused to the hole (aluminium) that was drilled in the block, it will loosen.
hey why not use brass self tapping screws, screw them right thru the block,
don't worry about the length the piston skirt will brake it off on the down stroke.
fill up you torches and sharpen those drill bit, the cure is here
hey why not use brass self tapping screws, screw them right thru the block,
don't worry about the length the piston skirt will brake it off on the down stroke.
fill up you torches and sharpen those drill bit, the cure is here
#34
#35
You do know that "Wet" liners with o-rings have been used in many different engines from the factory?
#36
and you know that this is not a wet lined motor dont you?
and they are never used to hold combustion gases in.
do you not understand that the combustion gases eat thru steel head gaskets, cut groves threw aluminum
but an o-ring will hold it?
go for it drill the hole, get a torch, let me know how it works out for you.
you keep grasping at straws, the block sux without flagged liners
and they are never used to hold combustion gases in.
do you not understand that the combustion gases eat thru steel head gaskets, cut groves threw aluminum
but an o-ring will hold it?
go for it drill the hole, get a torch, let me know how it works out for you.
you keep grasping at straws, the block sux without flagged liners
Last edited by drowssap; 06-09-2015 at 11:35 AM.
#37
and you know that this is not a wet lined motor dont you?
and they are never used to hold combustion gases in.
do you not understand that the combustion gases eat thru steel head gaskets,
but an o-ring will hold it?
go for it drill the hole get a torch, let me know how it works out for you.
you keep grasping at straws, the block sux without flagged liners
and they are never used to hold combustion gases in.
do you not understand that the combustion gases eat thru steel head gaskets,
but an o-ring will hold it?
go for it drill the hole get a torch, let me know how it works out for you.
you keep grasping at straws, the block sux without flagged liners
The following users liked this post:
Racer X (06-09-2015)
#38
and you know that this is not a wet lined motor dont you?
and they are never used to hold combustion gases in.
do you not understand that the combustion gases eat thru steel head gaskets, cut groves threw aluminum
but an o-ring will hold it?
go for it drill the hole, get a torch, let me know how it works out for you.
you keep grasping at straws, the block sux without flagged liners
and they are never used to hold combustion gases in.
do you not understand that the combustion gases eat thru steel head gaskets, cut groves threw aluminum
but an o-ring will hold it?
go for it drill the hole, get a torch, let me know how it works out for you.
you keep grasping at straws, the block sux without flagged liners
If the HG has failed to the point where you're relying on the O rings to hold combustion gases in, you have much, much bigger problems on your plate.
#39
the only reason the combustion gases happen inside the bore is if you have a block with flagged liner.
Stock liners are not flanged, the head gasket dont even cover them,so therefore when you have a crack behind the sleeve (like most) the gases go into your cooling system pressurizing it.
that fact that all the sleeve were ticking in the engine says there was a problem at one time or you believe every rover ticks
Stock liners are not flanged, the head gasket dont even cover them,so therefore when you have a crack behind the sleeve (like most) the gases go into your cooling system pressurizing it.
that fact that all the sleeve were ticking in the engine says there was a problem at one time or you believe every rover ticks
Last edited by drowssap; 06-09-2015 at 12:25 PM.
#40
just with out thread exactly, so when this plug weld cools it is not going to shrink, of course it is. and seeing as it is not fused to the hole (aluminium) that was drilled in the block, it will loosen.
hey why not use brass self tapping screws, screw them right thru the block,
don't worry about the length the piston skirt will brake it off on the down stroke.
fill up you torches and sharpen those drill bit, the cure is here
hey why not use brass self tapping screws, screw them right thru the block,
don't worry about the length the piston skirt will brake it off on the down stroke.
fill up you torches and sharpen those drill bit, the cure is here
Yes, the weld will shrink. My bigger concern would be the depth of penetration into the liner. The 'pin' that is created with the slug of weld, is only as good as the point it fixes to the liner. I don't know what the shear forces are between the block and the liner as it moves but it must be considerable.
I've never felt confident using a screw thread in a shear force situation, which is why I brought up threads. The valleys of the threads act as points of weakness where micro cracks can appear and the bolt fails in that allplication.
I would be happier to see a smooth pin which is a great tolerance fit in a hole.
That would be the best of both worlds in my (not a real engineer) eyes.
You have a great way of being negative Drow