I think I need some heavier OME springs in the front end
#1
08-30-2016, 07:51 AM
I think I need some heavier OME springs in the front end
After watching this video of my disco, along with having some issues with bottoming out at pretty low speeds I think I should get some new Old man Emu spring up front. question is, witch ones should I get and will the extra stiffness raise the front significantly? As this truck is already pretty top heavy I don't want to make it much taller and i rather just have better control of the body through either stiffer springs or maybe someone has put hydraulic bump stops on a disco before? I don't know let me know what you guys think
More info on my truck
2000 discovery ii se7
with ace cornering system
Im running 33" all terrain tires
OME light duty springs up front with medium in the back
OME nitro shocks up front and 2 inch extended length in the back
terra firma hd drag link and steering rod
custom pre runner style tubular bumper up front
Last edited by kristoffersmith; 08-31-2016 at 10:05 PM.
#2
08-30-2016, 02:04 PM
Baja
Hi
The vids show nothing worth looking at. If you have a heavier steel front fender and a winch attached you'll need stronger springs to counteract the additional front end weight.
IMO calculate the additional weight added and get pro advice on the springs but you may have to upgrade your shocks to match also.
The vids show nothing worth looking at. If you have a heavier steel front fender and a winch attached you'll need stronger springs to counteract the additional front end weight.
IMO calculate the additional weight added and get pro advice on the springs but you may have to upgrade your shocks to match also.
#3
08-30-2016, 02:11 PM
Hi
The vids show nothing worth looking at. If you have a heavier steel front fender and a winch attached you'll need stronger springs to counteract the additional front end weight.
IMO calculate the additional weight added and get pro advice on the springs but you may have to upgrade your shocks to match also
The vids show nothing worth looking at. If you have a heavier steel front fender and a winch attached you'll need stronger springs to counteract the additional front end weight.
IMO calculate the additional weight added and get pro advice on the springs but you may have to upgrade your shocks to match also
#4
08-30-2016, 04:44 PM
Agree that the video is useless. More like an infomercial for whatever drone/camera is in use.
Do you have extended shocks, or standard length? It's possible that you are using extended shocks with an OEM-like ride height and bottoming the shocks before you hit the bumpstops. Not sure why you'd go through the trouble of using aftermarket suspension in combination with extra gear and go "light duty". Have you tried swapping the original springs back in for comparison?
I know you don't want to lift it for whatever reason, but a couple of the cheap-bastard lifting blocks at 1" or 1.5" might solve your bottoming problem.
Do you have extended shocks, or standard length? It's possible that you are using extended shocks with an OEM-like ride height and bottoming the shocks before you hit the bumpstops. Not sure why you'd go through the trouble of using aftermarket suspension in combination with extra gear and go "light duty". Have you tried swapping the original springs back in for comparison?
I know you don't want to lift it for whatever reason, but a couple of the cheap-bastard lifting blocks at 1" or 1.5" might solve your bottoming problem.
Last edited by squirt; 08-30-2016 at 04:53 PM.
#5
08-31-2016, 09:59 PM
Agree that the video is useless. More like an infomercial for whatever drone/camera is in use.
Do you have extended shocks, or standard length? It's possible that you are using extended shocks with an OEM-like ride height and bottoming the shocks before you hit the bumpstops. Not sure why you'd go through the trouble of using aftermarket suspension in combination with extra gear and go "light duty". Have you tried swapping the original springs back in for comparison?
I know you don't want to lift it for whatever reason, but a couple of the cheap-bastard lifting blocks at 1" or 1.5" might solve your bottoming problem.
Do you have extended shocks, or standard length? It's possible that you are using extended shocks with an OEM-like ride height and bottoming the shocks before you hit the bumpstops. Not sure why you'd go through the trouble of using aftermarket suspension in combination with extra gear and go "light duty". Have you tried swapping the original springs back in for comparison?
I know you don't want to lift it for whatever reason, but a couple of the cheap-bastard lifting blocks at 1" or 1.5" might solve your bottoming problem.
well yes my brother shot this as a test and I just happen to see it. I was driving so i felt more of what what going on with the car. I wasn't going very fast in this video though and even at this low speed I was just on the brink of bottoming. I really don't want to go to much higher mostly because i don't want to rase the center of gravity too much as its already a top heavy vehicle.
More info on my truck
2000 discovery ii se7
with ace cornering system
Im running 33" all terrain tires
OME light duty springs up front with medium in the back
OME nitro shocks up front and 2 inch extended length in the back
terra firma hd drag link and steering rod
custom pre runner style tubular bumper up front
#6
08-31-2016, 11:53 PM
All I can add is that my OME Nitrocharger sport shocks lasted about 38k on the rear for me. I'm still running the fronts and you can see the model numbers in my signature.
I recently replaced the rears with Bilsteins and the ride is much softer, yet still stiff enough for challenging conditions like large potholes at low speed on mountain roads.
I ran the normal length with the below listed 2" lift. As a matter of fact some trusted LR specialists who are members of this forum advised me that extra length shocks on a 2" lift are not necessary. More than 2" then yes.
If you plan to load it down with steel bumpers, camping gear, and three well oiled friends and two dogs, then you might like the stiffer ride of the Nitrocharger Sports, if you mostly drive lightly loaded the Bilsteins, in my opinion, offer a much smoother ride with noticeably softer dampening over normal driving conditions. I find them softer on forest roads as well handling standard washboard well. More of a luxury ride like the stock setup. Both shocks slam the (unloaded) rear end back to the ground with a thud if you hit a speed bump or pot hole to fast, which I assume then is related to the spring and not the shock.
Now that my OME Md springs have some 50,000 miles on them they are softer on the small stuff and still stiff as hell rebounding if you hit a big obstacle at higher than optimum speed.
When my stock springs were done I could feel every pebble on the road and bottomed out on any minor bump. it is obvious. New shocks will disguise the problem for about 10k miles, I tried. Sagging springs will kill shocks that fast so don't waste your money for a short term fix, just get springs and shocks all at once.
When spending this amount of money make sure you get the right suspension for your needs based on your actual use of the vehicle. An offroad suspension might look good but will be shockingly different from stock in daily use if you never actually go off road for instance.
I recently replaced the rears with Bilsteins and the ride is much softer, yet still stiff enough for challenging conditions like large potholes at low speed on mountain roads.
I ran the normal length with the below listed 2" lift. As a matter of fact some trusted LR specialists who are members of this forum advised me that extra length shocks on a 2" lift are not necessary. More than 2" then yes.
If you plan to load it down with steel bumpers, camping gear, and three well oiled friends and two dogs, then you might like the stiffer ride of the Nitrocharger Sports, if you mostly drive lightly loaded the Bilsteins, in my opinion, offer a much smoother ride with noticeably softer dampening over normal driving conditions. I find them softer on forest roads as well handling standard washboard well. More of a luxury ride like the stock setup. Both shocks slam the (unloaded) rear end back to the ground with a thud if you hit a speed bump or pot hole to fast, which I assume then is related to the spring and not the shock.
Now that my OME Md springs have some 50,000 miles on them they are softer on the small stuff and still stiff as hell rebounding if you hit a big obstacle at higher than optimum speed.
When my stock springs were done I could feel every pebble on the road and bottomed out on any minor bump. it is obvious. New shocks will disguise the problem for about 10k miles, I tried. Sagging springs will kill shocks that fast so don't waste your money for a short term fix, just get springs and shocks all at once.
When spending this amount of money make sure you get the right suspension for your needs based on your actual use of the vehicle. An offroad suspension might look good but will be shockingly different from stock in daily use if you never actually go off road for instance.
Last edited by Dave03S; 09-01-2016 at 12:01 AM.
The following users liked this post:
kristoffersmith (09-02-2016)
#7
09-02-2016, 12:15 PM
All I can add is that my OME Nitrocharger sport shocks lasted about 38k on the rear for me. I'm still running the fronts and you can see the model numbers in my signature.
I recently replaced the rears with Bilsteins and the ride is much softer, yet still stiff enough for challenging conditions like large potholes at low speed on mountain roads.
I ran the normal length with the below listed 2" lift. As a matter of fact some trusted LR specialists who are members of this forum advised me that extra length shocks on a 2" lift are not necessary. More than 2" then yes.
If you plan to load it down with steel bumpers, camping gear, and three well oiled friends and two dogs, then you might like the stiffer ride of the Nitrocharger Sports, if you mostly drive lightly loaded the Bilsteins, in my opinion, offer a much smoother ride with noticeably softer dampening over normal driving conditions. I find them softer on forest roads as well handling standard washboard well. More of a luxury ride like the stock setup. Both shocks slam the (unloaded) rear end back to the ground with a thud if you hit a speed bump or pot hole to fast, which I assume then is related to the spring and not the shock.
Now that my OME Md springs have some 50,000 miles on them they are softer on the small stuff and still stiff as hell rebounding if you hit a big obstacle at higher than optimum speed.
When my stock springs were done I could feel every pebble on the road and bottomed out on any minor bump. it is obvious. New shocks will disguise the problem for about 10k miles, I tried. Sagging springs will kill shocks that fast so don't waste your money for a short term fix, just get springs and shocks all at once.
When spending this amount of money make sure you get the right suspension for your needs based on your actual use of the vehicle. An offroad suspension might look good but will be shockingly different from stock in daily use if you never actually go off road for instance.
I recently replaced the rears with Bilsteins and the ride is much softer, yet still stiff enough for challenging conditions like large potholes at low speed on mountain roads.
I ran the normal length with the below listed 2" lift. As a matter of fact some trusted LR specialists who are members of this forum advised me that extra length shocks on a 2" lift are not necessary. More than 2" then yes.
If you plan to load it down with steel bumpers, camping gear, and three well oiled friends and two dogs, then you might like the stiffer ride of the Nitrocharger Sports, if you mostly drive lightly loaded the Bilsteins, in my opinion, offer a much smoother ride with noticeably softer dampening over normal driving conditions. I find them softer on forest roads as well handling standard washboard well. More of a luxury ride like the stock setup. Both shocks slam the (unloaded) rear end back to the ground with a thud if you hit a speed bump or pot hole to fast, which I assume then is related to the spring and not the shock.
Now that my OME Md springs have some 50,000 miles on them they are softer on the small stuff and still stiff as hell rebounding if you hit a big obstacle at higher than optimum speed.
When my stock springs were done I could feel every pebble on the road and bottomed out on any minor bump. it is obvious. New shocks will disguise the problem for about 10k miles, I tried. Sagging springs will kill shocks that fast so don't waste your money for a short term fix, just get springs and shocks all at once.
When spending this amount of money make sure you get the right suspension for your needs based on your actual use of the vehicle. An offroad suspension might look good but will be shockingly different from stock in daily use if you never actually go off road for instance.
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