Be sure to get new brass keys made or the problem will return. The stock steel keys are like a small hacksaw and will slow eat up the brass wafers in the lock again.

 

FYI if you do a search for "land rover discovery sheer bolt" note the British spelling on EBay you can purchase new shear bolts. They are designed to be hard to remove to thwart theft.

 

I just replaced mine with regular bolts. If someone wants to steel it and go through all that trouble, they can have it. If your concerned about the shear bolts you could replace them with another type of tamper proof bolt.

 

......and I thought spraying wd40 on my key once a month was the quick fix to this common problem.....

 

I would not use WD40. Use a good lock lube. WD40 is really not a good lubricant. It tends to dry things out and will cause early failure. Don't ask me how I know...

 

Thanks to the writer of this post, (arm and hammer) I fixed my Land Rover today! It worked, but definitely lots of little parts coming out all over, be patient....
I am new here😃

 

I had a really stiff lock. Key would not go in smoothly and was worse locking the column and removing the key. Usually multiple attempts before it would come out.

I was looking for some Super Lube products on Amazon and ran across their Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, after reading up on it I decided to try it. Put a drop on each edge of the key and inserted it into the lock and pulled it out several times. Let it sit a few hours and then drove the truck normally. After a few days it is smooth. No problems locking the column or extracting the key. Feels like a new lock.

Yes, I know everyone says you are not supposed to use a wet lube on a lock but this one seems to work. It is not supposed to gum up over time and is super slippery thanks to PTFE.

 

Great job on the ignition switch refit. Like the title states, I acted first then read your process.
Like the dummy I am, once I got to the black disc w/ the five wires; ( '95 discovery I) looks like one on top (always hot) then four around the bottom. In my haste and the heat, it's brutal in TX right now, I used a wire to jump across it to try and start it. Top wire to (looking at it w/ hot on top) first wire left side; nothing.top to second wire it sparked; bad. Top to third wire made the starter crank, but wouldn't start; joy. By that time I started thinking about a momentary on switch or button and I saw the slot other other side the key assembly fits into, stuck a flat head in it an went to first position then second, then all the way right for cranking and nothing.
All fussible links are new and test good as the fuses that are w/ them. All fuses in the passenger compartment test good. That's all I got. What else using the screwdriver method is keeping it from cranking? There was only one good L.R. Shop ( The Rover Shoppe) but Motorcars Ltd made him an offer he couldn't refuse. Now it's like going to a Harley dealership; insane labor and shoddy workmanship. I just had a new clutch put in and both rear door window regulators in as well as running exhaust pipe thru the cat's as they were also bad. I've got three Lab's, a chocolate 120lbs, a silver; she's gorgeous, and a yellow; she's got a little something else in there but as sweet as she can be, and they want their ride back. Please help get my dogs back on the road.
Regards,

 

Great post- thanks to all who contributed! The fix worked like a charm on my "new to me" 98 Disco I. Looks like someone had already gone through a repair once, shear bolts had been replaced by hex - easy to remove. I was careful about collecting all of the small parts when pulling [what someone above called] the shuttle out - but there was no little spring or arm (must have been lost by previous repairman ;-) ) All back assembled without those parts and as far as I can tell no problems. I assume those are just for some kind of "key is in the ignition" buzzer.

 

Wonderful post Arm and hammer ! This gave me the confidence to take on the task myself.

I've attached a few notes and Images from my experience:

I first used a file to level the top of the bolts to make for easy drilling


After drilling purchase points in the bolts to fit my bolt extractor (Easy Out) they came out with little resistance


Drilling out the rivet gave me some trouble as it kept spinning with the drill. This was solved using a screwdriver and/or punch to hold part of the rivet in place.


Under the spring sits a lever that actuates a switch held in place by a black brace. The brace slides off with the help of a screwdriver. With the brace removed the switch pops off and the cylinder is ready to slide out


As Trickymonk pointed out be careful removing this as the spring will take flight if not restrained


Removing the offending pieces


And making sure to remove the springs that they may not cause mischief later


Thanks again guys!