I'm still trying to cheap out on you guys.
Thanks Dusty, so the two together will probably get me... ~1.5-2"? Maybe a touch more since my coils are originals and have sagged.
I have a rrc 3" coil lift on my d2. it gives the d2 a 4" lift in the front.
the rear would require a spacer to make it level....(I had to use a wedge with the xsprings......so that is how I achieved the level.) it will get you just over an inch unless you are very saggy
in fact if you look at rte website, you can cross reference the part numbers in the lift.
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&product_id=77
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&keyword=rr1-3
the rear would require a spacer to make it level....(I had to use a wedge with the xsprings......so that is how I achieved the level.) it will get you just over an inch unless you are very saggy
in fact if you look at rte website, you can cross reference the part numbers in the lift.
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&product_id=77
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&keyword=rr1-3
Last edited by dusty1; Mar 9, 2015 at 11:08 AM.
I have a rrc 3" coil lift on my d2. it gives the d2 a 4" lift in the front.
the rear would require a spacer to make it level....(I had to use a wedge with the xsprings......so that is how I achieved the level.) it will get you just over an inch unless you are very saggy
in fact if you look at rte website, you can cross reference the part numbers in the lift.
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&product_id=77
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&keyword=rr1-3
the rear would require a spacer to make it level....(I had to use a wedge with the xsprings......so that is how I achieved the level.) it will get you just over an inch unless you are very saggy
in fact if you look at rte website, you can cross reference the part numbers in the lift.
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&product_id=77
http://www.rte-fab.com/products?page...&keyword=rr1-3
Last edited by Alex_M; Mar 9, 2015 at 11:23 AM.
my spacer/wedge, I cut custom 3/16" to 15/16". this gave the xspring a perfectly flat base and no noise. it netted about 3/4" extra lift in the rear.
yes I did brake lines..........twice. the first ones were the tf extended ones and the were not long enough, so I had to get longer ones made.
just running dc shafts front and back from gbr
I extended cranked radius arms to accommodate.
I have ace so I made custom links to connect and keep actuator force at nuetral
yes I did brake lines..........twice. the first ones were the tf extended ones and the were not long enough, so I had to get longer ones made.
just running dc shafts front and back from gbr
I extended cranked radius arms to accommodate.
I have ace so I made custom links to connect and keep actuator force at nuetral
Sounds like a pretty killer set up, I'm envious. I don't suppose there's any way I could get a picture of your rear setup?
That's insane that you popped the extended brake lines. I know a couple guys running stock lines on 3" without issue, but they also leave sway bars connected and such, not the most flexible Discos I've seen.
That's insane that you popped the extended brake lines. I know a couple guys running stock lines on 3" without issue, but they also leave sway bars connected and such, not the most flexible Discos I've seen.
Sounds like a pretty killer set up, I'm envious. I don't suppose there's any way I could get a picture of your rear setup?
That's insane that you popped the extended brake lines. I know a couple guys running stock lines on 3" without issue, but they also leave sway bars connected and such, not the most flexible Discos I've seen.
That's insane that you popped the extended brake lines. I know a couple guys running stock lines on 3" without issue, but they also leave sway bars connected and such, not the most flexible Discos I've seen.
brake lines would have been fine with the +3 shocks, as they were retainers.
shock swap allowed enough extra drop, to pop.
I can grab a pic....if I can't find one, on here somewhere.
They probably won't handle quite as good, but I can pick up an almost new set of springs, plates, and retainers for ~$70. Then I'm just in the block for a new or lightly used set of shocks.
Ok, so here's an update. I've got a set of rear 2.5" spacers to go under the spring plates, cut out of polyurethane and new longer grade 8 bolts with lock washers. I also pulled the rear springs off of my donor truck with the idea of putting them on the front of my truck for ~2" in the front, which should level out the weight of all my tools sagging down the back. The question is, do I need to do anything like switch out spring plates in the front? I know the bottom of the front springs is designed a little differently than the rear with the rear being flat and the front not.
I attempted to do the switch myself, but one bottle jack, one floor jack, two jack stands, and a couple cinder blocks wasn't cutting it. Not safely at least. Looks like I'm going to have to pay a shop with a lift to do it for me. Bummer, any idea on labor time?
I attempted to do the switch myself, but one bottle jack, one floor jack, two jack stands, and a couple cinder blocks wasn't cutting it. Not safely at least. Looks like I'm going to have to pay a shop with a lift to do it for me. Bummer, any idea on labor time?


