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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 09:28 PM
  #11  
wreckdiver1321's Avatar
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Originally Posted by lr2001silver
Thanks for the info
Hope all is well and your having a good close to this year. Happy holidays
And you as well. Happy Holidays. That driveshaft of yours is working beautifully by the way!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 09:49 PM
  #12  
AdrenalinPlease's Avatar
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Originally Posted by wreckdiver1321
If you go with only OME springs and OME shocks (I bought mine from Expedition Exchange because they have a pretty good price) and don't buy any other parts you won't run into any other issues. OME NitroCharger shocks are factory length, so they don't allow the axle to droop far enough to require brake line extensions and messing with the cross member. It's a pretty straightforward install, not too much to it.

I have 18s too, and unfortunately aggressive tread patterns are a bit difficult to get for them. I went with 265/60R18s (30.5") before I knew I was lifting it, and they work phenomenally well, even without a lift. I went with BF Goodrich Rugged Terrains and they are fantastic, but you can get several other good treads in that size, like Cooper AT3s or Toyo Open Countrys.

You can step up to a 265/65R18 (31.5"), which is almost exactly the same size as the tires most people who have lifts with 16s use, but again, you're stuck with only a few different all terrain treads, but on the plus side this size gives you access to the BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A, one of the better all terrain tires ever made.

If you're going to keep your 18s, the best treads are in the 275/65R18 (32") size. If you make the step to those, then you're looking at the basic all terrains now including the Generall Grabber AT2, as well as some serious treads, like Cooper STTs, Kelly Safari TSRs, the newer Fierce Attitude MTs (I'm seriously considering these), Wrangler DuraTracs and Wrangler MTRs.

So it all depends how aggressive you want it to be. I'd highly recommend the lift though. Chances are your factory springs and shocks are shot and collapsed. It did wonderful things for my rig. The ride is so much better and it handles even nicer than when I bought it. I also love what it did for clearance, and it plain looks better. A complete OME lift with coils, shocks, and steering damper from Expedition Exchange will run you exactly $800 plus shipping. You might be able to find it a little cheaper, but they have great service and from my experience they ship nice and prompt.
Very informative thank you!

I'm not looking at brake lines and such so a simple 2" will do, I'm not 100% clear on whether I should get the factory length nitrochargers or the +2 shocks? OME is the standard for Lr I'm assuming?

Once I have this lift I can go to a 275/70/18? Or 275/65/18? I'm already looking at the tires.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by AdrenalinPlease
Very informative thank you!

I'm not looking at brake lines and such so a simple 2" will do, I'm not 100% clear on whether I should get the factory length nitrochargers or the +2 shocks? OME is the standard for Lr I'm assuming?

Once I have this lift I can go to a 275/70/18? Or 275/65/18? I'm already looking at the tires.
You're welcome!

Keep in mind that the 2" brake line extension and cross member spacers will take MAYBE an hour to install, and they allow the suspension to move more, so they're worth the extra effort to do if you'd like the suspension to be more flexible, which is extremely helpful in an offroad situation.

If you're absolutely against doing that and would rather just make room for some taller tires, go with the OME NitroChargers they sell on Expedition Exchange. They are very, very good shocks and are factory length, so they won't let the axles move down any farther than they do from the factory. That means you don't have to extend brake lines or add a cross member spacer.

Old Man Emu, Terrafirma, and RTE are the big three when it comes to Rover suspensions. I've almost never heard any problems with OME. They've been around awhile and are designed to be expedition duty suspension products, so they're damn near bulletproof. I have 2" OME springs on the front of my DII. Terrafirma is a little cheaper and sells longer shocks, but I have heard some longevity concerns from a few people when it comes to their shocks. I have no idea if this is true, since I have no experience with them whatsoever. RTE makes a pretty good product, but you'll still need to buy shocks.

Like I said, if you're looking for the more aggressive treads, your best bet is a 275/65R18. A Disco won't clear 275/70R18s with only a 2" lift.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 12:07 AM
  #14  
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Default +3 Terrafirma

Here are a few Pics I just remembered I had of my +3. As you can see the rear coil and shock are longer and thicker than the factory rears, I did not take pics of the fronts due to time and dirty hands but will later this week. I am adding 1" spacers to my front because it sits an inch lower than my rear. This is the HD set and I did get 3" in the rear (that really sounds good lmao) but a little under 2" in the front. The rears are longer and thicker but the front coils we only a little longer and much thicker but the shock was much longer. I know I dont have to take the fronts out to install the spacer but, its only 4 more bolts and would help give a better reference point on the TF lift. The front damper is also thicker. My ride is a little more harsh but when the rear TR bumber and TF sliders are on Im hoping for a little softer ride do to the weight. Mine had running boards on that weighed 20 lbs each and the TF sliders with tree bars 78 lbs I believe. so Im adding 136 lbs in sliders, the front ARB is 160 lbs and factory was I think 60 lbs so another 100 lbs and the rear TR rear is 90 lbs Im taking a guess that factory rear is around 30 lbs so another 60 lbs added....so 266 lbs added and that is not counting the added weight of the +3 lift which was pretty decent oh and the Blue top battery is 50 lbs and other was 27 lbs. Maybe all in all close to an extra 400 lbs. I have diff guards coming as well so more weight. Sorry for the rant. Will measure again with the spacers in and all the other gear on. Im thinking it will sit even. I did take the wheel trim guards off which gave almost another 1/4-1/2" of wheel clerance. Hope the rant is of some help.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 12:22 AM
  #15  
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Awesome looking stuff aaron! And great info! But I believe he's only looking to do a 2"lift kit on his rig. A minimal work sort of deal.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 12:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by aarongregor
Here are a few Pics I just remembered I had of my +3. As you can see the rear coil and shock are longer and thicker than the factory rears, I did not take pics of the fronts due to time and dirty hands but will later this week. I am adding 1" spacers to my front because it sits an inch lower than my rear. This is the HD set and I did get 3" in the rear (that really sounds good lmao) but a little under 2" in the front. The rears are longer and thicker but the front 1 we only a little longer and much thicker but the shock was much longer. I know I dont have to take the fronts out to install the spacer but, its only 4 more bolts and would help give a better reference point on the TF lift. The front damper is also thicker. My ride is a little more harsh but when the rear TR bumber and TF sliders are on Im hoping for a little softer ride do to the weight. Mine had running boards on that weighed 20 lbs each and the TF sliders with tree bars 78 lbs I believe. so Im adding 136 lbs in sliders, the front ARB is 160 lbs and factory was I think 60 lbs so another 100 lbs and the rear TR rear is 90 lbs Im taking a guess that factory rear is around 30 lbs so another 60 lbs added....so 266 lbs added and that is not counting the added weight of the +3 lift which was pretty decent oh and the Blue top battery is 50 lbs and other was 27 lbs. Maybe all in all close to an extra 400 lbs. I have diff guards coming as well so more weight. Sorry for the rant. Will measure again with the spacers in and all the other gear on. Im thinking it will sit even. I did take the wheel trim guards off which gave almost another 1/4-1/2" of wheel clerance. Hope the rant is of some help.
Other than brake lines did you do anything else extra to do the 3in lift im debating on a 2 or 3in for my D2 thanks
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 01:38 AM
  #17  
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wreckdriver I was giving him the low down on how weight will effect the height of the lift. The TF 2 and 3 are the same price and brake lines are $90 I believe. The steering damper is extra as well $70-75I was going to just do a 2 but decided on the 3 because who knows what will change down the line and you may regret no going higher. ZGphoto has my same lift, he would be a good one to search for posts on and read up. DiscoP all I did was change the brake lines. Lift was really easy to put in, I did not even remove the brake caliper, just un hooked the speed sensor. Brake lines are really need in the rear. The whole lift is about preference just like women...
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 01:57 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by aarongregor
wreckdriver I was giving him the low down on how weight will effect the height of the lift. The TF 2 and 3 are the same price and brake lines are $90 I believe. The steering damper is extra as well $70-75I was going to just do a 2 but decided on the 3 because who knows what will change down the line and you may regret no going higher. ZGphoto has my same lifót, he would be a good one to search for posts on and read up. DiscoP all I did was change the brake lines. Lift was really easy to put in, I did not even remove the brake caliper, just un hooked the speed sensor. Brake lines are really need in the rear. The whole lift is about preference just like women...
I hear ya thanks for the info. I think ill like the way a 3 looks. What size tires are you running on your 3 in lift. Yhanks ahead of time for.the info
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #19  
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Yeah I'm definitely not going 3" this is mostly a road car and when she goes offroad it won't be extreme enough to need that much lift, the lack of tires though disappoints me so after my 2" lift I can max out at 275/65/18 correct? And that size does have some nice aggressive ones.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #20  
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You also want to keep in mind that the taller tire you install with the stock gearing will make the vehicle more sluggish on the highway and take a hit on mpg also.
 
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