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Indications and Warnings of Front Drive Shaft Failure?

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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 03:27 PM
  #21  
JEFIII's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Hilton Head, SC
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I've been using Tom Woods driveshaft for years without a problem. As Best4x4 stated earlier, keep anything lubed and it should last a long while. JEFIII
 
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Old Jul 27, 2017 | 03:39 PM
  #22  
unpolire's Avatar
4wd High
Joined: Mar 2008
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Default Warning sounds

A distinct "clunk" can be heard when engaging Drive and Reverse. Additionally, increased driveline noise at highway speeds is very noticeable. I had about six months of warning signs and mine snapped going around a corner on my way to the shop! Catalytic converter heat contributes to the loss of grease in the u-joint, as my aircraft engineer friend pointed out months before it happened.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #23  
BobE's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Long Island NY
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Great thread. After reading similar threads I've gotten in the habit of regular greasing of the u-joints. One question. How much play should there be in the u-joints? Seems like on one of them there is maybe an 1/8 inch of movement from side to side if I move it by hand. I'm guessing that's too much?
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 08:27 PM
  #24  
KingKoopa's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2016
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Originally Posted by BobE
Great thread. After reading similar threads I've gotten in the habit of regular greasing of the u-joints. One question. How much play should there be in the u-joints? Seems like on one of them there is maybe an 1/8 inch of movement from side to side if I move it by hand. I'm guessing that's too much?
Way to much. Change it now
 
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Old Sep 5, 2017 | 09:21 PM
  #25  
LR03NJ's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Linden, NJ
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
I had a GBR Front Drive Shaft and I was not impressed with it at all for the $$$. Starting squeaking 6 months & I replaced it ASAP. You can get a nice replacement off of Ebay for 124.00 with 4 zerk fittings.
Had a GBR as well. Original factory shaft lasted longer. GBR heavy duty shaft lasted not even a year. Bought reman from them for my other disco, looked exactly as Ebay but cheaper priced.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 03:33 PM
  #26  
OffroadFrance's Avatar
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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Originally Posted by BobE
Great thread. After reading similar threads I've gotten in the habit of regular greasing of the u-joints. One question. How much play should there be in the u-joints? Seems like on one of them there is maybe an 1/8 inch of movement from side to side if I move it by hand. I'm guessing that's too much?
There should be zero, zilch movement in the UJ's otherwise the UJ's are already toast.

Let's not confuse Cardan UJ movement with Transfer box play/movement. Unless the transfer box is new, and even then, there will always be some rotational play at the flange.

My LR Original driveshaft lasted well over 100K miles and the reason I rebuilt it was the chance of a large bang and a huge bill for the autobox being I did a considerable amount of autoroute cruising and heavy towing.

IMO one of the best driveshafts has got to be the LR original equipment............. if you can afford to replace it.
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; Sep 6, 2017 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 06:56 PM
  #27  
00&04 Disco's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 214
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From: Arizona
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There are multiple threads on this forum with part numbers and great step by step instructions for rebuilding your factory drive shaft with greasable U-joints for under $60 and a couple hours. My opinion is just commit and do it yourself. You then know the quality of u-joints and steel in your shaft not just crossing your fingers on an eBay special for double the price.
 
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