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Inline thermostat fail!!!

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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 04:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
I'm still working on my 03-04 Grill Mod, and the only thing I can see fixing our issue is a larger radiator with more rows or getting more air into the radiator aka Saudi Grill type setup.
What is your 03-04 grill mod? Based on what else you wrote I expect it's a mesh, Saudi-style grill.

Also, I think it's funny how many here are talking about the humidity in combination with summer temps. Humidity has no effect on vehicle cooling. We humans use evaporative cooling where humidity is a factor.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 04:46 PM
  #32  
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Might just be the placebo effect, but one thing that I swear made a difference was changing to the Heavy Duty Fan Clutch from Autozone. Definitely was noisier than my stock but keeps my temps way down when at idle.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 05:08 PM
  #33  
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I actually found that my temps dropped when I went to the 03 Range Rover grill mod I did, it has a lot more open space for air to go through, this pic was before I put the land rover logo back on it, hence the random black oval on the drivers side of the grill
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 06:46 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
cant see the pic but post it if u can the regular way
Am sorry, Photobucket changed regulations for sharing; or needs to click on "view photo" or whatever they invented now.
Nothing special:
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 07:39 PM
  #35  
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My 03-04 Grill mod is basically turning it into a RRS grill with thousands of little holes. The air passing thru it is better vs solid slates found in the 99-04 grills.

As soon as it hits 6-7PM around here my temps will magically go from 200-207 down to 188-195 range. The humidity drops as evening falls and so does the ambient temps.

I have lived in much dryer climates and sure it's hot, but it's not the same kind of heat. I can't relate on my temps when I lived further north as I didn't have a scangauge back then, but I also went 169k on a stock 03 D2 and it never blew up in the 6 years I owned it (My ex g/f was NOT at all kind to my 03 D2 and it should have died an early death) . After living down here I've had cooling issues on all my vehicles from a 2014 Ram C/V, 2 05 Jeep Wrangler's, 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 08 Hummer H3 Alpha, 07 Hummer H3 Adventure, 98 D1, 99 D2, 02 D2, and 06 LR3. Even my In-Laws 2016 Ford Explorer runs warmer than it should.

If you aren't checking your coolant system down here you're just asking for trouble. If I lived in Portland, OR checking that would be like the last thing on my list and from what I've been told by several friends with LR's up there is that they stick with the OEM 190F thermostat as they find their D2's running to cold/rich with the 180F thermostat.

Also is a well known fact that high humidity makes an HVAC system work harder. When on a vehicle if the HVAC has to work harder the engine works harder so actually higher humidity does have an effect on a vehicle. All of my testing and results are with the HVAC on. Sorry I'm not going to own a luxury SUV & drive around like a Jeep Wrangler with no top & no doors or HVAC.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; Jul 24, 2017 at 07:47 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 07:44 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Externet
Am sorry, Photobucket changed regulations for sharing; or needs to click on "view photo" or whatever they invented now.
Nothing special:
what did you use if I make ask. Looks good if you have part numbers that would be great
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 07:47 PM
  #37  
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My inline mod maxes out around 194, in 100* weather. Usually runs in 183-188 range in normal weather.

I usually bleed by putting something under bleeder so it's the highest point in the cooling system, open the bleeder. Put my mouth around the coolant fill hole (no homo), block the little pressure relief tube from the expansion tank with my finger and blow into the expansion tank until a stream of coolant comes out of the bleed screw. While the coolant is flowing out of the bleed screw - tighten it.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 07:48 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by huggi
My inline mod maxes out around 194, in 100* weather. Usually runs in 183-188 range in normal weather.

I usually bleed by putting something under bleeder so it's the highest point in the cooling system, open the bleeder. Put my mouth around the coolant fill hole (no homo), block the little pressure relief tube from the expansion tank with my finger and blow into the expansion tank until a stream of coolant comes out of the bleed screw. While the coolant is flowing out of the bleed screw - tighten it.
thats what I've been doing
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 09:11 PM
  #39  
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Where are you from Huggi?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 10:59 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Luckyjayb
the whole was there already for the factory bleed spot
Right, but there weren't massive gaps around the factory tee.
 
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