Inline Thermostat Mod and Ultra Gauge: What exactly do I need?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
1. Why add a significant power drain to a low amp stock (130) alternator that struggles to keep up now?
2. The D1 design had the condenser fan running all them time AC was engaged. A switch and relay could accomplish that in a D2 and provide a cooling boost when needed in traffic, etc.
3. There are other fan clutch units that will alter the fan performance, and there are other fan blades available, both can increase cooling.
4. BP Utah has a bronze impeller water pump with increased gallons per minute flow that will boost cooling.
So if your goal is increased cooling there are several ways to go at it, if you want to lower HP drag of the fan clutch and replace it with increased load on the electrical system, doubt that it will make a 5 mpg increase, but you might be able to out perform my 0-60 in 3.8... gallons.
2. The D1 design had the condenser fan running all them time AC was engaged. A switch and relay could accomplish that in a D2 and provide a cooling boost when needed in traffic, etc.
3. There are other fan clutch units that will alter the fan performance, and there are other fan blades available, both can increase cooling.
4. BP Utah has a bronze impeller water pump with increased gallons per minute flow that will boost cooling.
So if your goal is increased cooling there are several ways to go at it, if you want to lower HP drag of the fan clutch and replace it with increased load on the electrical system, doubt that it will make a 5 mpg increase, but you might be able to out perform my 0-60 in 3.8... gallons.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO.
I really enjoyed the electric fan and will probably be putting it back on. I only put the fan clutch back on because I knew it would be the only way to put together test results that could be duplicated with out any more modifications other than the Inline mod itself.
Here are the things I liked about it.
1. it gave me lots of room to work on any part of the front of the engine. It was mounted on the engine side of the radiator and was a puller. However the fan I used comes out of the box as a pusher so you have to turn the blade around which is very easy and has instruction in the box.
2. the oem fan clutch is very heavy so the electric fan made me feel better about a few things. less drag on the engine, less wear on the water pump, maybe better gas mileage (not sure about this) but it just felt good not having to worry about wether it was working well or not.
3. it would heat up faster because there is no air blowing on the engine until the stat opens and dumps hot coolant into the radiator where the sensor is located that activates the fan. This is great in the winter but not sure if it will matter at all in the summer.
4. you can set it up with a switch in the cab to turn on and off whenever you want, not sure this is necessary because when the engine is hot the fan will be on, but it is nice to know that if something went wrong with the sensor, or the stat got stuck closed you would have the manual option.
The fan I used was an "Imperial" fan from Advanced Auto parts and was a 14" I will be returning it and getting the 16" when I go back to the electrical set up, I may even go with a better fan all together but have not decided yet, the 14" worked fine. It is important to remember that I only bought this set up for a temporary fix that night when I broke one of my fan blades off, and had no intention of staying with it.
However I will be going back to the electrical fan set up after I am completely done testing thermostats (only one left to test) so I can compare them both (electric fan and OEM fan clutch) accurately and post the pros and cons.
I will post pics of the set up I used when I get some time in the next day or so, but I did not see any negative effects with the electric fan other then it would take a little longer to cool the engine down at first start up but only because it had not started cooling the water in the radiator until it kicked on. but other then that it worked fine with the stock set up and really well with the inline setup. (did not notice any better or worse performance with stock setup as far as cooling) However the reasons I am going back are the horse power, less wear on the water pump and maybe gas mileage.
It is also important to note it is currently in the 30's and 40's here in St. louis. I have no test results yet for the summer.
Here are the things I liked about it.
1. it gave me lots of room to work on any part of the front of the engine. It was mounted on the engine side of the radiator and was a puller. However the fan I used comes out of the box as a pusher so you have to turn the blade around which is very easy and has instruction in the box.
2. the oem fan clutch is very heavy so the electric fan made me feel better about a few things. less drag on the engine, less wear on the water pump, maybe better gas mileage (not sure about this) but it just felt good not having to worry about wether it was working well or not.
3. it would heat up faster because there is no air blowing on the engine until the stat opens and dumps hot coolant into the radiator where the sensor is located that activates the fan. This is great in the winter but not sure if it will matter at all in the summer.
4. you can set it up with a switch in the cab to turn on and off whenever you want, not sure this is necessary because when the engine is hot the fan will be on, but it is nice to know that if something went wrong with the sensor, or the stat got stuck closed you would have the manual option.
The fan I used was an "Imperial" fan from Advanced Auto parts and was a 14" I will be returning it and getting the 16" when I go back to the electrical set up, I may even go with a better fan all together but have not decided yet, the 14" worked fine. It is important to remember that I only bought this set up for a temporary fix that night when I broke one of my fan blades off, and had no intention of staying with it.
However I will be going back to the electrical fan set up after I am completely done testing thermostats (only one left to test) so I can compare them both (electric fan and OEM fan clutch) accurately and post the pros and cons.
I will post pics of the set up I used when I get some time in the next day or so, but I did not see any negative effects with the electric fan other then it would take a little longer to cool the engine down at first start up but only because it had not started cooling the water in the radiator until it kicked on. but other then that it worked fine with the stock set up and really well with the inline setup. (did not notice any better or worse performance with stock setup as far as cooling) However the reasons I am going back are the horse power, less wear on the water pump and maybe gas mileage.
It is also important to note it is currently in the 30's and 40's here in St. louis. I have no test results yet for the summer.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO.
Thomas,
I also noticed that you have a 150 amp alternator installed, where did you get it and is it a direct bolt on or are mods needed?
I did not notice a problem with draw on the system but was just curious.
I also noticed that you have a 150 amp alternator installed, where did you get it and is it a direct bolt on or are mods needed?
I did not notice a problem with draw on the system but was just curious.
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 143
Likes: 2
jaydog101...
uping my alternator to 150amps was probably one of the cheapest and easiest upgrades I've done.
I bought a used 150amp alternator that came from a junked/parted-out 1999/2000 Range Rover. I paid $75 for it from a local junkyard. Before I installed it, I took it to Autozone etc to get it tested for free.
The bosch alternators in the Disco2 and Range Rover are interchangable so it was a direct fit/bolt-on requiring absolutly zero mods.
Cheers,
Thomas
uping my alternator to 150amps was probably one of the cheapest and easiest upgrades I've done.
I bought a used 150amp alternator that came from a junked/parted-out 1999/2000 Range Rover. I paid $75 for it from a local junkyard. Before I installed it, I took it to Autozone etc to get it tested for free.
The bosch alternators in the Disco2 and Range Rover are interchangable so it was a direct fit/bolt-on requiring absolutly zero mods.
Cheers,
Thomas
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
Thta's a cool trick with the Rangie alternator. But us D1 owners are stuck with 100 amp stock unit, and well over 80 amps of drain when everything is on, before you step on the brakes. A clamp on DC ammeter will show you what is happening.
I have electric fan in a 3.8 liter V-6 Kia, and it stays at 180F period, even in 100F+ days. And a Ford Taurus has a 18 inch electric fan that looks mighty tempting for experimenters at the junk yard.
But I would point out that the clutch fan will provide more cooling than the electric fan at slow speed / high rpm, like rock climbing, hill topping, some towing situations, sand hogging, etc. The electric fan just stays at the same speed. The mechanical fan can increase cooling at road speeds as well, if you increase the size and pitch of the blades (like the '01 Blazer model in this pix). Mine made 6-10F decrease in 100F outside temps. Fan & HD clutch $20 at junk yard, same 6 inch diameter clutch, reverse rotation, screws right on our water pump.
As to water pump life, unit on left is 175K, D1. Unit on right from donor vehicle, D2, 114K, same pump. A big part of lifespan for pump is what coolant is mixed with, don't use distilled water and you can see the results. The chewed metal was from the pump wobbling. Not saying a fanless water pump won't last longer, just that there are other factors as well. And it is quite common for a bad fan clutch to hold hands wih the water pump and jump off the cliff together (fail around same time).
I have electric fan in a 3.8 liter V-6 Kia, and it stays at 180F period, even in 100F+ days. And a Ford Taurus has a 18 inch electric fan that looks mighty tempting for experimenters at the junk yard.
But I would point out that the clutch fan will provide more cooling than the electric fan at slow speed / high rpm, like rock climbing, hill topping, some towing situations, sand hogging, etc. The electric fan just stays at the same speed. The mechanical fan can increase cooling at road speeds as well, if you increase the size and pitch of the blades (like the '01 Blazer model in this pix). Mine made 6-10F decrease in 100F outside temps. Fan & HD clutch $20 at junk yard, same 6 inch diameter clutch, reverse rotation, screws right on our water pump.
As to water pump life, unit on left is 175K, D1. Unit on right from donor vehicle, D2, 114K, same pump. A big part of lifespan for pump is what coolant is mixed with, don't use distilled water and you can see the results. The chewed metal was from the pump wobbling. Not saying a fanless water pump won't last longer, just that there are other factors as well. And it is quite common for a bad fan clutch to hold hands wih the water pump and jump off the cliff together (fail around same time).
Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 95
Likes: 1
From: Hilton Head, SC
I have to agree with Jaydog and Savbuzz that drilling the 1/8" hole is a must. I just finished this conversion and my '04 wanted to over heat before I drilled the hole. Might be my coolant sytem, but the hole solved all my problems after a careful bleeding. Just my 2 cents.
