Replace every gasket and seal on that engine before installing it. The front tranny seal is listed as "Transmission Oil Pump Seal" on AB website. Use Curil-T on all seals you replace. You might want to replace the timing chain and sprockets as well and inspect the oil pump.

 

What is the best way to get all of the specialized pulley/torque converter removal tools and seal installation tools? The Rave lists numerous tools for these items. Are they land rover specific, or will generic auto store rental tools fit the bill?

 

You don't need any removal tools especially with the engine out. Even with the engine in I did all the gaskets and seals (except for the rear) with normal tools.

 

Is Curil-t basically the same as retinax grease?

 

A regular claw type seal puller will work fine with the engine out, though Sears sells a nice "shaft in" seal puller made by Lisle that reduces the chances of scratching up the shaft. be really careful pulling them out so as not to so much as nick the steel shafts.

Dave

 

x10 on doin the head gaskets while the engines out.Way easier then when the engines in.

 

what are these problems you speak of? Is it knocking or spitting coolant out the tailpipe. Does it have a cracked sleeve that has been verified by two sources? No offense but unless two sources verify a problem then I would buy one. I could name you a hundred problems that require no engine just a few gaskets. For example on your year intake gaskets have a nasty habit of sucking oil causing the light to come on. Get a new gaskets and pcv separator and problem fixed. If its a slight knock in the upper part perhaps a new set of lifters. You are not giving much explanation but you are gong up about putting in a motor yet you have no idea about the gaskets. That is something a decent tech would already know. It takes little pride and slot less money to get a proper Diag if you don't know the answer. Instead attempting to be a big man and shotgun parts.

 

Wow, where did that come from? I really appreciate the 'big man' reference. I just asked some simple questions, not for a review of my approach to handling my engine problems. But since you asked and seem knowledgable on the subject, the '03 has two problems that have both been discussed with the local rover dealership and an independent Lr mechanic. First, it has a very loud driver's side knock which worsens as the engine gets hot. Both mechanics felt fairly confident that it is a slipped liner that bcomes more pronounced as the block heats up and expands (kind of the inverse of a bad lifter which would be noisy on startup). And second, the oil pressure has dropped recently to the point that it is less than 5 psi when hot at idle (that's as low as my gauge will read). The oil light has not yet come on. I plan to pull the drivers side valve cover to peak at the valve train for any obvious signs of problems before doing the engine swap, but in the meantime I planned to gather the necessary replacement gaskets for the '04 engine so it's ready to go if needed. The $100 in gaskets is worth the time it will save to me.

 

as stated previously... you need

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4082BK.cfm

and

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9224.cfm

 

I hate to hijack this thread but no need to start another for the same answers.
I am going to be doing the same. Tossing a 2004 (47,000 mi) engine from Roverland parts into my 2003 with bad oil pump and vin range of death.

I see what Roverland does to the engines before shipping them out but still have some questions on what should be done before installing this into the 2003.

Here is my list, please let me know if there is anything I missed or do not need to do.

Mag wires and +4 plugs
Transmission Oil Pump Seal
Head Gasket set
Head bolt kit
Front cover gasket
Front and rear engine seals
Water pump

Mike and the others with way more know how then me....does this look ok?