Try pulling and reinserting FUSE 27 in pass box. Check all connections on wiring diagram. If that doesn't help or already done so scratch head and/or wait for it to become a hard fault.
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Tried that fuse. It didn't do anything. Thanks anyway.

 

So this gets stranger by the second.


FSAG I disconnected the lead from the dash to the alternator. Checked the voltage at that terminal, and it was a consistent 14.3 through the RPM range. Reconnected and the voltage drops in and out. Tested the lead, and it is a consistent 13.3 at the lead coming from the dash, when not connected to the terminal. So I have 13.3 coming in, and 14.3 going out, and when I connect the lead to the terminal, it drops in and out.


Does this still sound like a an issue with voltage regulation?

 

State of battery charge not sensed by volt reg when wire disconnected & alt puts out max voltage, what you are seeing is normal.


Flickering light, yes/no/maybe? Easy to shotgun a a new one in if you want. If it doesn't fix light you'll have to troubleshoot further.
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I'm a little confused, but as I understand it, you've eliminated the ground side of the alternator as an issue and also the battery side, so that leaves the problem isolated to either: the alternator isn't sending correct signals to the instrument pack or there's some fault with the instrument pack and/or wiring.

In case it helps, the electrical diagrams show a brown-and-yellow wire going from the alternator to the instrument pack, then from there a green wire goes to a "header" (not sure what this is, exactly) and then the green wire continues to the fuse box (Fuse 27, 10A). That then connects via a yellow wire to the ignifition switch.

 

Missed that earlier, what drops in and out? What is in/out.
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Is the engine property grounded to the chassis. I had intermittent battery light and it was because the engine was not grounded to the engine properly.

 

If I put the voltmeter to the alternator terminal where the yellow/brown wire connects (with the yellow/brown wire connected to the terminal), the voltage is consistent at idle. If I rev the engine, it literally goes back and forth from 14 to 0. The dash light goes on when it drops, and goes back out when the voltage goes back up to 14. Idling in gear, the voltage is consistent at 14. Start to drive and it goes back and forth between 14 and 0, and the dash light goes on and off accordingly.


The main output terminal is unaffected.


Could you view the video I posted earlier of the voltmeter flashing?

 

Thanks for the clarification. Your good readings may indicate alternator beginning to go tango uniform. This would lead me to believe it's loosing gnd through brushes or regulator at times.

From Electrical Library.Unless into pulling alt apart to check and clean up brushes/slip rings I'd be looking at replacing the alt.
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I was thinking the same thing, for two reasons. The fact hat it seems to be RPM influenced, leads me to believe it's the alt. Everything is fine at idle, but any increase in RPM and the warning circuit voltage goes goofy. Also, the fact that the light does not go on at all of you disconnect the warning circuit lead from the alt to dash. Disconnected from the alt the circuit is showing 13.3 consistent volts, but when connected to the alt it goes haywire.


I'll probably just try replacing the alternator just to be sure. I tried swapping the battery just to eliminate a variable, and it had no influence at all.