2000 disco2 with around 124k miles on it.
I got the 3 amigos taken care of last october and everything when them worked great all winter. Early april, I would start to see 2 of the 3 lights come on after coming to a stop and hearing a noise. They would reset when I turned off the car. It was only a matter of time before I got all 3. Just ordered an ABS amigo, but im assuming they're on again because I'm getting some squeak and pulsating under breaking; I just replaced the module itself back in October.
I had AB replace by EBC slotted and drilled under warranty back in october when they were warped, and now im getting the same issues with the stock ones they sent me: pulsing under braking. They feel like they grab, and then let a little loose, grab hard, and looser again... every time.

I just seafoamed, replaced plugs, changed all the fluids, cleaned the TB, and some other little stuff about 700 miles ago.
Im getting the following codes now as well as these issues:
1590 - rough road, amigos, figures
1171/1174 - maf sensor/vacuum leak - I probably have both lol
0130 - o2 bank 1 sensor 1 malf (thats driver's side precat correct?)
0171 - Need a new maf is what im guessing
1668 - some security thing? no idea.

I get a creak or minor grind when I start to accelerate from a stop, and its coming from the left front of the car. Its not the front prop, thats for sure.

I'm getting more gear slap in 3rd after replacing the tcase fluid and trans fluid. no idea why, but its definitely more rough than it seemed to have been. You get a rough jump when you put your foot on the gas and when you take it off, but the one going to idle isnt as bad.

Sometimes i get a slight whistle under idle. As soon as I give it a little gas it seems to go away. It seems to come from under the center of the vehicle sometimes, and sometimes in the engine bay. I am going to get in there and spray around to see what I can find.

I cant believe that my rotors are warped again after just having replaced them. I use my gears religiously and have always been pretty ginger with them. Its weird to me to have them go out again after maybe 10k miles.

I would really love to get this car ALL FIXED and stop having to worry about little crap ALL the time. These cars shine in adverse conditions, but for a DD, its definitely a PITA

any ideas? Thanks, as always guys

 

rotors rarely warp... most of the time the loose/grab is from pad material baked onto sections of the rotors. did you bed in the pads properly when you had them replaced? see if you see any rough/darker spots on the rotors, just a few mm's of crap on there can cause your symptoms. if not that, go a step further and see if your calipers are ok, if they arent returning out one or both sides might be rubbing, heating up the rotors while driving, wearing out the pads, heating up your calipers/brake fluid and depositing more material on parts of the rotors. also, make sure the rotors seat very well, clean the hub, clean it again, then again. any garbage behind them might push even a fraction of an inch off center, when translated all those inches up the length of the rotor only multiplies in an offset enough to have a slight wobble as the rotor isnt true and parallel with the pad surfaces on each side.

the vac leak/whistle sound could be related, check the back of your throttlebody, spray each connection with some starter fluid while idling and see if you notice an engine rev change (indicating that its sucking air from one of the vac connections). the break booster (hard black plastic line with clip) is a HORRIBLE design in terms of sealing, pull it in and out, check the sealing pieces etc, they can whistle alittle, or alot, to the point where it might even buzz and sound like a freakin wind instrument.

B1S1 is drivers side precat, correct

ps. i wouldnt go with drilled/slotted rotors unless you are on a track car, there is simply less surface area to grab for friction by design! def not necessary in these things...unless maybe you are trailering in a very hilly area alot lol

 

the rough road isnt an amigo code. but it could have something to do with your brake problem.for the 1668 it has to do with superlock if you click lock twice to lock the truck and only once to re-open, it'll pop the doors but leave the alarm armed. Try clicking twice, or when you get in, make sure your alarm armed red LED isn't still flashing, clear the code and you should be good.what fluid did you put in the tcase and tranny?

 

Well I drive from Boulder to Summit/Eagle County (Breckenridge, Vail, Copper, Etc.) and back about 4 days a week and its 6%-10% Grades the whole way, but I switched back to the OEM rotors. As I was told, the bed process just consisted of being very easy on them for around 400 city miles. Thats exactly what I did with them. I will get the wheel off and see if its not seated properly as soon as this rain stops

I used valvoline 80w90 synthetic for the tcase and diff fluids, the tranny I had done because I was in the middle of finals week and didnt have time to get that done myself. I told them to use dex3, but the odds of them actually using it are probably slim and none. I need to give them a call

 

That's what they tell you when you get your brakes changed at a garage that isn't going to bed them for you and wants you to make sure you know that you will have reduced braking power until they wear in.

The very first google hit for "bedding brakes and rotors" that I found is exactly how everyone I know does it, and it works. This is what I learned when I started racing, and it works for street pads just as well.

 

Taking them out to do this later.

different note, got the abs amigo. Here is what I got from the amigo, let me know if you can interpret this
1.--Current Faults---->
Active Faults:
None
Logged Faults:
Front Right Sensor Bad Output
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
022:ECU Gnd or Reference Gnd bad
064:Front Right sensor electric fail
065:Rear Left sensor electric fail
066:Front Left sensor electric fail
067:Rear Right sensor electric fail
Logged Faults:
None
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------
..--Previous Faults--->
Active Faults:
022:ECU Gnd or Reference Gnd bad
Logged Faults:
None
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
* *
------------------------------------------------------------

 

wheel sensors might be dirty, loose or dead in the water... but looks like you have some electrical grounding issues (surprise surprise, Land Rover did the electrics in these cars with electroplated fishing line and duct tape)... might be a corroded or loose ground nut, broken or frayed cable, or loose harness on the ecu. or perhaps its the abs shuttle valve failure, its popular but i dont recall ever comming across the faults it throughs, but i do think it causes grounding issues as the break fluid shorts the pins out or the solder on the terminals rotts to ****...or something along those lines. start simple and cheap and work your way up.

 

Hmmm new rotors - maybe your calipers are acting up, slightly sticking. You getting any pull to the left or right when braking? How hot are the rotors getting? I know they get hot normally, but if your calipers are not closing and opening normally they will get really hot. You will notice a burning smell too. Smells bad...

Over time, depending on where the truck has been, mud/water/salt takes its toll on the caliper pistons. I sunk a jeep YJ in the mud and spent a week cleaning brake parts...would drive to work....right side would stick....would clean it that afternoon....left side would stick next day...would clean that one....next day both would stick....finally had to just replace the OEM calipers and call it a day because I was sick and tired of taking the wheels on and off....I hate this "carolina clay"....lol

What did the caliper pistons look like? The rubber around them etc. What kinda shape was that in? Any signs of rust?

 

grandkodiak and sloan are incorrect.

you have one problem. it is "Front Right Sensor Bad Output"

the rest of the errors are from previous scans and if those scans are from previous users. It has nothing to do with your truck.

Check the front right sensor make sure it's connected. Could be a bad connection, but most likely the sensor is shot. Could be vibration in the hub that caused this meaning you need a new hub and sensor assembly.