<sigh> Yeah, I figured. I just hate giving them money for something that you should be able to do yourself..... imagine if microsoft charged $100 everytime you needed to reboot your computer after a change. Thanks. I'll post what happens.

 

OK.... just came from dealership. They reset the adaptive values on the ECU, but it did no good, car ran just as before. So I thought, "hey I have another ecu in the trunk, lets try that one, maybe the one in the engine is defective." That one did the same thing. (at least they only charged me for doing it once) The tech came to speak to me, they ran diagnostics and he said the TPS is not sending the correct signal. (I replaced the TPS about a year ago) Sooooo he was thinking that either the TPS went bad or I damaged the wire when I was replacing the fuel injectors. So I started dreading the fact that I would have to go back and get the adaptive values reset once again...... then driving home I realized, I now have an extra ECU in the trunk that had the adaptive values reset and the car was not run for more than a minute on it! It only takes little things like that to make me happy these days. He also went on to tell me that my xyz switch was going..... hmmnnn.... D1s don't have xyz switches. Maybe he just sees too many D2s. Anyway, I beleive that's a linkage that needs to be adjusted. I have another TPS at home, I guess I'll try that first and then trace the wire down and make sure it is intact.

 

Please keep us posted on this one.

 

Came home, tried a different TPS, no good..... adjusted kickdown cable.... still no good. Going to go the junkyard tomorrow and get a replacement harness and wire for the TPS and splice it in..... only thing I can think of is that it is a bad wires.

Still starts up no problem.... runs great for about 10 seconds and then quickly sputters and dies.

I'm losing my mind.

 

well, the junkyard was closed today.... so I decided that I would redo the seal on the plenum cover and ram housing just to rule that out. I used permatex high tack last time and it seemed to be getting gooey each time the engine got warm. Noticed it dripping down the ram housing yesterday. I checked for a vacuum leak there and didn't find anything, but who knows, I'm going to let it cure for 24 hours and then see it runs any differently.

 

New Plenum gasket and ram housing gasket..... no vacuum leak, still starting, running for 10 seconds or so at normal idle, sputtering and then dying out. Unlplug the TPS sensor, car idles at roughly 2000rpms in park, put it in Drive and idle goes down to about 1000.

Tomorrow I will splice in a new harness for the TPS as the dealership said the TPS was giving the wrong signal to the ECU.

 

Ok.... Changed the harness on the TPS. Still not working. Starts, Idles for 10 seconds, does out. I believe it runs so rich that it stalls.

I'm running out of options here. Does anyone have any more ideas? Is it possible that I bought injectors that are running so rich that my car won't run? It ran with the injectors for a few days before this started happening. The idle was a bit erratic, but the the disco seemed to run better. I'm tempted to remove the new injectors and put the old ones back in. Please someone has to have some more ideas.

I was thinking alt or battery, but disconnecting the TPS harness has the car running at 2000-3000 rpm without stalling.

I love this truck, but I can't stand this anymore.

 

I can dump a entire can of SeaFoam into the truck and she wont stall, she'll spit and sputter but not stall.
I am out of idea's, sorry.

 

"I can dump a entire can of SeaFoam into the truck and she wont stall, she'll spit and sputter but not stall."


lol I used to be able to too! I'm going to put the old injectors back in and see what happens.

 

So I put the old injectors back in..... no difference. On a whim I swapped out the fuel pump (the one with the brand new chevy pump put in the fuel pump housing) with another used LR pump (mind you, there were no fuel pressure issues)..... it started running more or less normally, no stall, idled between 700 and 1000..... so I drove it around for a while feeling very satisfied. After that, every time I started it up, the idle increased. Right now it's at 3000rpm at idle in P or N, and it drops to roughly 1000 in D or R. No vacuum leaks to be found. Throttle body is clean, IAC is new???? Anyone have ideas on my new HIGH idle issue?