First I have read many threads on this subject but just want to verify nothing has changed.

I originally noticed my PAS leaking after a small fender bender my wife was in. Needless to say no one with Insurance believed our Rover had no leak before the incident.

So I came here & looked for answers & ended up thinking it was just the low Pressure hose from reservoir to bottom of the pump. Purchased new hose from Atlantic British. Installed new hose then came more problems.

Tried bleeding the system as many said including the Rave with no luck. Finally figured out a trick to bleed the PAS system that worked. But not before spraying fluid everywhere unfortunately.

Now comes more problems after washing down the engine. The infamous codes for two front O2 Sensors. I know people say this doesn't happen from washing but it seems to with ours & it is always fixed with two new O2's.

Worse than that is the leak wasn't fixed & upon further inspection using my new Toys (Electronic Scope recorder & Lighted Inspection Mirror) I found the pump was actually leaking although it still looked a little like the bottom hose was leaking.

So I ordered a New pump from AB & it will be here next week along with O2's etc. I also purchased the Pentosin CHF 11s for new pump install.

So now for my questions:

1. I have read the Rave & the R&R looks pretty straight forward especially if you have correct tools, is this correct? Any tips appreciated.

2. Once new pump is installed does it require manual priming before use & if so does this just consist of turning pulley manually?

3. If so does it matter which direction?

4. I read of using a hose on bleeder to purge old fluid, does this actually work?

5. I also read once old fluid is purged you can just put hose in PAS reservoir to finish bleeding system, is this correct also? If this works it seems like this will save allot of wasted very expensive fluid.

6. Im going to use the synthetic fluid so is Lucas still necessary?

7. Not 100% related but is there any tricks to water proofing the connections on the O2s so that they aren't fried so easily from leaks & washing?


Thanks for all the help here & Sorry for dumb or repetitive questions. I am unfortunately a perfectionist by nature so I research anything I do too much & have been very satisfied with LR dealer which is another story.

 

As long as you do not allow the hose to drain out, you should not have to belled the steering. I replaced my with a new pump last month, straight plug and play, added fluid and it ran like a champ.
I still add a little. 1/2 bottle of Lucas even though I also run synthetic steering fluid.

 

Thanks Mike how did you remove all hoses from pump without getting air in system Im confused I guess?

As for fluid while it was leaking I just added regular fluid so I figured now with new pump I really need to purge old fluid out of system?

Just thought of another Question: Do you which way does the viscous fan turn for removal?

 

Counter clock wise.
Remove the hoses from the pump prior to removing the bracket/pump and let them drain into a catch pan. Try and keep the hose to the gear box from pointing down and draining too much.

 

Not 100% related but is there any tricks to water proofing the connections on the O2s so that they aren't fried so easily from leaks & washing?

You could coat it with liquid electrical tape until your satisfied that its sealed up.

 

Have you actually done this, I was thinking of something like the heat tape that is water proof?

 

Yes i have not on this D II but other toys yes. The o2 sensors are supposed to have seals the when pressed together form a water tight bond but its possible your are not sealing up right for whatever reason i was a electrician by trade and have used the liquid tape before.

 

Update:

Pump was delivered from AB yesterday evening along with the broken radiator overflow hose.

I had already stated the tear down before pump arrived so the rest went smooth. I did have all the correct tools for viscous fan etc which really helped I think. No broken bolts etc. We removed reservoir & thoroughly cleaned it out using air to dry it out.

I also decided it was as good a time as any to clean all visible areas on engine & I cleaned the PAS bracket housing also.

Now it did take me a while (actually longest part of the job) to figure out how the Pump disengaged from the bracket since I didn't want to break any part. After finally figuring this out I felt stupid.

Next I just installed the pump housing etc in reverse order. I also used a Torque Wrench since I am a little **** about doing things correct to the best of my ability.

1. Now after everything was back together & we had no extra parts leftover I filled the reservoir with 1 liter of Pentosin CHF 11S.

2. Started engine & pump started up with minimal noise

3. I used a Crow foot 11mm wrench to loosen the bleeder since I also used a hose on it to not make such a mess. Made the hose long enough to reach to a Rubbermaid shoebox container.

4. Had wife turn steering back & forth a few times while I checked fluid exiting hose. Didn't take much at all before it was a consistent Green color. Probably used more than I should have really but I wanted to make sure it was clean.

5. Tightened bleeder left hose in place took it for a test run which went well & wife loved the extremely quiet steering as well as the fact it worked.

I was thinking of leaving hose attached but have since decided to remove it for safety.

All in all I purchased 5 liters of Pentosin based on what some said here & only used a little over 1 Liter so 2 liters will be returned.


Next project thanks to fluid all over engine now I have to change the O2s but I have done this before so maybe it will go smooth. I do plan on using more Dielectric this time though.


Thanks for all the advice as well as all the past post I researched. Also RAVE was very Helpful.

Im not a writer so I will try to edit this to read better later.