Just did a front driveshaft rebuild and when we popped open the double Hookes/Cardan joint we were surprised to discover a component we didn't expect: a CV ball joint that is not mentioned or shown anywhere in the RAVE manual (that we could find).

We didn't know that it was a CV ball joint -- or that it was supposed to be seated in the flange end of the double joint. The ball+race either was so loosely seated it just popped out during disassembly out or worse was just floating around there in the double joint for who knows how long.

Not having any instructions on it, we tried to just reassemble the double joint without pressing the race of the ball joint into the receiver on the flange. After several frustrating hours, we finally lost some needle bearings in the ball joint, which turned out to be a stroke of good fortune as it took us to our local non-franchise auto parts store, where they let us go back in the stock and search thru u-joints until we stumbled upon the Moog 617 CV for Dodge, which is the same CV ball joint as in our front shaft.

This led to an internet search, where we finally found a great explanation about the CV joint from someone who posted a step-by-step rebuild on something called "Scribd" (look it up using search "double cardin joint discovery 2 scribd" as I don't think I can paste links in threads, can I?).

Once we understood the purpose of the CV ball joint, we finally got it together including pressing in U-joint caps in under 20 minutes.

So I am just posting this as:

1. a cautionary tale for anyone doing a front driveshaft rebuild that the RAVE doesn't tell the whole story; and

2. to see whether anyone else has ever had the floating CV joint like we had inside the double joint (very weird as it appears not to have damaged anything inside the double joint, in spite of the new ball joint having to be properly pressed in on a 20 ton HFC press).

 

Mx section in Rave doesn't address rebuild of front shaft. The wholes stories are can be found searching here or on the web.
......
You may want to delete the duplicate thread you made on this.
......

 

Because it's critical and difficult to rebuild RAVE doesn't recommend. It's a full days work to do.

https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2...epair-kit-oem/

 

Not for me. Didn't have to pull the ball/race, it was just "loose" in there.

No kidding: when we "opened the double cardan joint, the ball/race fell right out: that's how we lost a couple of the needle bearings, necessitating a replacement.

That's the odd thing I am trying to figure out: why it wasn't banging around or making more noise if that race wasn't even seated and just floating in there.

No way you can get that double cardan back together unless that race is fully seated in the flange. Trust me we tried.

 

BTW, good deal on that rebuild kit.

We paid almost that much just for the centering bearing.

 

BTW number9 how do I delete a thread? I went into that duplicate thread as the thread starter and couldn't find a "delete" option, only an edit option. Thanks.

 

JGS4x4 looks like they have some good prices as well on other parts (though shipping will be the gotcha). Bookmarked their site for future reference.

$180 for a complete front driveshaft sure seems worth it just to avoid the challenge of pulling that centering bearing (the rear shaft bushing was no easy job either).

 

JGS is OK for the UK and europe but expensive for the US, particularly freight.

IMO I would buy a good quality HD US made driveshaft with well know UJ's and ensure there are grease zerks in each UJ and possibly the centering ball. Rebuilding a Cardan driveshaft isn't easy, speaking from experience, and it takes a full 8 hour day from start to finish, you'll need good tools, a lot of patience and a swear box. The centering ball is a real bitch although the UJ's are easy.

 

Guess I am feeling luckier by the minute that the ball joint in my cardan simply fell out.

Fortunately, I have a brother locally that is a car nut and has one of his garages turned into a shop: press, huge band saw, torches, MIG and TIG welders, etc.