Just got home from completely spontaneous purchase of '03 Disco SE
#1
Just got home from completely spontaneous purchase of '03 Disco SE
Wasnt even looking for these. Matter of fact, wanted a Ford Excursion 7.3 just for towing reasons. Saw this. Wife liked it.
I know nothing about these. In 4 minutes online, I see I just bought a maintenance hog. Oh well. Im used to 1000hp+ cars, so this shouldn't be too bad.
This is for my wife's "fun" grocery getter and our mountain/4 wheeling adventures. Need some advice on my plans I want to start immediately: Please give me specific names/parts/vendors if you have suggestions. I really appreciate it!
1. Want back seats (3rd row). Are foldable seats from the side an option to install, instead of permanent 3rd row?
2. Want lift kit/bigger meat all around. What kit? 2"? 3" I live in New Mexico. Will do desert/moab type of wheeling.
3. what size tires are typical and don't kill highway power, etc?
Any other advice. I will be reading forum religiously now. Thanks!
I know nothing about these. In 4 minutes online, I see I just bought a maintenance hog. Oh well. Im used to 1000hp+ cars, so this shouldn't be too bad.
This is for my wife's "fun" grocery getter and our mountain/4 wheeling adventures. Need some advice on my plans I want to start immediately: Please give me specific names/parts/vendors if you have suggestions. I really appreciate it!
1. Want back seats (3rd row). Are foldable seats from the side an option to install, instead of permanent 3rd row?
2. Want lift kit/bigger meat all around. What kit? 2"? 3" I live in New Mexico. Will do desert/moab type of wheeling.
3. what size tires are typical and don't kill highway power, etc?
Any other advice. I will be reading forum religiously now. Thanks!
#2
Check with a dismantler like Paul Grant (this forum) on seat options, not every junkyard has a Rover.
Shop, owner, and electrical manuals are called the RAVE, free download links below.
Front drive shaft, if oem style sealed U joints on double end; will dry, split, and flail hole in tranny. Rebuild info in our tech area or replace with fully greaseable after market. Sometimes with no warning.
The oem heat gauge points at 50% from about 130 - 240 F. Plug in your scanner or Ultra Gauge to see real coolant temps. A 180F grey thermostat is available to drop those acros the board.
"Power" and "Rover" are mutually exclusive terms. This pix was taken before lug bolts sheared off and took it into the wall.
Shop, owner, and electrical manuals are called the RAVE, free download links below.
Front drive shaft, if oem style sealed U joints on double end; will dry, split, and flail hole in tranny. Rebuild info in our tech area or replace with fully greaseable after market. Sometimes with no warning.
The oem heat gauge points at 50% from about 130 - 240 F. Plug in your scanner or Ultra Gauge to see real coolant temps. A 180F grey thermostat is available to drop those acros the board.
"Power" and "Rover" are mutually exclusive terms. This pix was taken before lug bolts sheared off and took it into the wall.
#3
Sounds like you just put the cart in front of the horse. May I ask what you plan on doing with it, are you aware the 03's don't have a locking t/case so you are limited on traction unless you rebuild the t/case at which time you can go to lockers and gears.
How many miles on the Disco? Might want to read my sticky thread at the top of this section on ,major services and do all of them before you look at all you changes.
Have you ever owned a 4 wheeler before?
How many miles on the Disco? Might want to read my sticky thread at the top of this section on ,major services and do all of them before you look at all you changes.
Have you ever owned a 4 wheeler before?
#4
#5
NUMBER ONE: Pressure test the cooling system. If it checks out ok, make sure the viscous fan clutch works correctly. Step 3, replace the expansion cap. Dont even test it, just replace.
NUMBER 2: Driveline: Check the front driveshaft U-Joints for grease zerks. If none; replace. If there are some, grease them and make sure EVERY JOINT squirts grease. It only takes one of the four joints to not take grease for the WHOLE THING to fail and consequently take out the transmission housing $$$$.
NUMBER 3: OIL. Change it... PERIOD. Rotella 25W-40 or a simalar diesel oil for 3 changes to clean out the engine. Then run a thick oil for high mileage gas engines. Yo dont need to constantly clean out the engine with the diesel detergent oils.. for longevity at an already high-mileage anyway. Use a quality filter. Mobil 1 301 is good. The purolator/mann filter is just higher capacity witha questionable relief bypass (do your homework for your engine).
NUMBER 4: Your engine will never sound like a Honda. Rvrn if you fix "all" of the oil leaks.. your rear main seal will probably be leaking. Keep the oil up and leave it be. It's a Rover... It self lubricates the chassis this way.
NUMBER 5: 2" lift is cheap and simple. 3" to 4" with a bit of work but for the cost of regearing, might as well go 5" and not rub 33"s. (no cutting).
NUMBER 6: It's a Rover. It WILL break down. Mostlikely at the worst time with the least funds in the ol bank account for it. Take it easy on it and dont daily-drive it. Get a commuter car and save the Rover for fun.
MOST IMPORTANTLY #7: HAVE ROVER FRIENDS. I'm on the fielsd and NOBODY WANTS to work on a Rover. We are here online because of ease of connectivity. Get in touch with some LOCAL Rover guys that share your passion....
Because passion is what Rover guys have... sensibility is what Toyota guys have.
Lastly, know you are driving a great piece of off-road machinery for what it is made for.
Stock, this is no rock-crawler or trophy truck. It does what it does and does it well.
Have fun with it and have your CC ready.
Cheers!~
NUMBER 2: Driveline: Check the front driveshaft U-Joints for grease zerks. If none; replace. If there are some, grease them and make sure EVERY JOINT squirts grease. It only takes one of the four joints to not take grease for the WHOLE THING to fail and consequently take out the transmission housing $$$$.
NUMBER 3: OIL. Change it... PERIOD. Rotella 25W-40 or a simalar diesel oil for 3 changes to clean out the engine. Then run a thick oil for high mileage gas engines. Yo dont need to constantly clean out the engine with the diesel detergent oils.. for longevity at an already high-mileage anyway. Use a quality filter. Mobil 1 301 is good. The purolator/mann filter is just higher capacity witha questionable relief bypass (do your homework for your engine).
NUMBER 4: Your engine will never sound like a Honda. Rvrn if you fix "all" of the oil leaks.. your rear main seal will probably be leaking. Keep the oil up and leave it be. It's a Rover... It self lubricates the chassis this way.
NUMBER 5: 2" lift is cheap and simple. 3" to 4" with a bit of work but for the cost of regearing, might as well go 5" and not rub 33"s. (no cutting).
NUMBER 6: It's a Rover. It WILL break down. Mostlikely at the worst time with the least funds in the ol bank account for it. Take it easy on it and dont daily-drive it. Get a commuter car and save the Rover for fun.
MOST IMPORTANTLY #7: HAVE ROVER FRIENDS. I'm on the fielsd and NOBODY WANTS to work on a Rover. We are here online because of ease of connectivity. Get in touch with some LOCAL Rover guys that share your passion....
Because passion is what Rover guys have... sensibility is what Toyota guys have.
Lastly, know you are driving a great piece of off-road machinery for what it is made for.
Stock, this is no rock-crawler or trophy truck. It does what it does and does it well.
Have fun with it and have your CC ready.
Cheers!~
#6
LOL. You guys are great. And love your passion. Was with 2 LC owners last night. Started second guessing my purchase for sure. But whats done is done. I will start tearing into a few things today. This is where the passion will build and I'll become one with it.
Great advice everyone!
5" lift seems extreme for this. But I like extreme sometimes. I will research and look for pics. As long as I can re-gear for power, Im not opposed. 5" is not too high for COG, etc?
Great advice everyone!
5" lift seems extreme for this. But I like extreme sometimes. I will research and look for pics. As long as I can re-gear for power, Im not opposed. 5" is not too high for COG, etc?
#7
First, how many miles on it and second do the major service.
Are you going to want to run lockers and gears?
5" is way too much for that top heavy truck, stay at 3"s and with the proper tires, CDL modification and lockers, you can easily run with your Rubicon buddys.
If you want some help, send me your number and I'll be glad to answer all your questions.
Are you going to want to run lockers and gears?
5" is way too much for that top heavy truck, stay at 3"s and with the proper tires, CDL modification and lockers, you can easily run with your Rubicon buddys.
If you want some help, send me your number and I'll be glad to answer all your questions.
#10
Yes I need to work on those! Don't even know the name of the color, but the light gold. 76k miles.
So big decision for tonight/tomorrow. I want to get my lift ordered asap.
2" OME
3" RTE with fox or other shock
Really tough decision. Need to drive down highway straight and stable at 80 (ish). But also want good clearance. With 3" RTE, do I have to ditch the sway bar? IF they are both equally well road-mannered, 3" is what I would do. But???
So big decision for tonight/tomorrow. I want to get my lift ordered asap.
2" OME
3" RTE with fox or other shock
Really tough decision. Need to drive down highway straight and stable at 80 (ish). But also want good clearance. With 3" RTE, do I have to ditch the sway bar? IF they are both equally well road-mannered, 3" is what I would do. But???