I am starting a new job on Tuesday, and I just took my Land Rover out of storage after 2 years to use as my commuter car. Its a 2000 Discovery II w/ 80k. I've been driving my Grand National as my everyday car, but she's now over 120k and I'm storing her with the hopes of turning her into a show car. I've never stored a car this long, especially not one as finicky as the Disco, so I'd like some input as to things I should be looking for as far as maintenance and upkeep. A little background on the truck: new tranny 1500 miles ago, in the last 5000 miles I had a 60k tuneup, 20k ago I had coils installed and MAF replaced (all by the dealer). There is no ACE, no moonroofs. Yesterday I changed the oil, using a Wix filter and Mobile 1 10w 40 high mileage. As I was turning the Disco around to pull it into the garage to flush the coolant, I noticed the rear brakes were grinding, so I took it down to have the rear brakes inspected (I imagine my calipers are probably frozen). Should have it back tomorrow. Saturday I will flush and replace with 50/50 coolant, clean the TB, and hopefully the intake as well if I have time. Here are my questions:
1. What should I be looking for as far as problems that may pop up after being stored for so long?
2. When cleaning the intake, I usually run water through a vacuum line. I see others are using Sea Foam. Is water not ok for this vehicle?
3. I realize the MAF is an extremely sensitive piece of electronics. When disassembling the upper intake to clean the TB, is there a procedure as to how I should handle the MAF?
4. I have a leaking PS pump. I knew this before storage, and about 50 miles before storing, I added a bottle of Lucas to help with the leak. Should I add another bottle to the current PS fluid, or should I bleed the system, remove and seal the pump with RTV, then fill and add a new bottle of Lucas? The hoses are fine, its the PS pump that leaks. As a side note, what's the proper wrench size to remove the serpentine belt?
5. Lastly, is there a recommended jacking procedure? I use a 3-ton high lift Craftsman jack w/ stands, but I'm having trouble getting the truck high enough to get the stands under the axles. Where should I be placing the jack in order to get the stands under the axles?

Thank you in advance. I appreciate everyone's input.

 

Put your jack on the axle and jack from there, if you lift on the frame it will never go high enough.
Lift one side at a time.
As for the power steering leak, do NOT add another bottle of Lucas, just drive it and give it a chance to work.
Just drive it after changing all of the fluids.

 

you will want to change all your fluids, it has been sitting for two years with moisture collecting in all your cases, now that moisture/water is going to mix in with all your fluids.
Quick example my jeepster sat for years, i got it started and drove it for a while and the streering felt funny. I got around to draining the front diff and it had about a quart of water in it that had collect from sitting. the truck only had 1800 miles, yes hundred miles. it was all from moisture collecting and settling.

 

Your fuel in the tank, and everywhere else, won't be in such good shape either, so a fuel system cleaner (SeaFoam, Techron, BG44, etc.) would be a plus. And that battery is now two years older, does not matter if it sat on a shelf, it still ages, worth thinking about a change.

 

Don't waste money on having your brakes checked, you most likely just have rusted rotors from sitting too long. Go dry it, the noise should go away as long as you were not having brake issues prior to storage.
Your battery will probably be pretty weak after being stored that long so a new one may be needed soon.
Gas and your other fluids are the main thing, especially p/s fluid and brake fluid.

 

You mentioned draining and filling the front and rear diff. I looked in the RAVE, it tells you how to drain it, but not how to fill it again. Where are the fill plugs/valves for the diffs? Is this really something that should be done? Its an easy drain, and not a big deal, but I'm under a serious time crunch. Also, my serpentine belt is pretty worn and cracked. The RAVE shows you turn the tensioner bolt clockwise to loosen. Is that correct? Seems contrary to "lefty loosy, righty uptighty."
Lastly, I was going to need new brakes soon anyway. I did a lot of heavy towing with my truck, and they wore out fast. I went down to the shop where the brakes were being inspected, they showed me the brakes and there was some serious rot down there. The rear brake dust shields were completely disintegrated. I touch one, simply touched it, and it broke off. The mechanic told me it would be wise to replace all four rotors and pads. I do trust the man, he was my father's employee and now owns the shop after my father retired and sold it to him. He's only charging me for parts, so I'm going to have everything replaced, if for nothing else but peace of mind. I'd never forgive myself if something went wrong while driving with friends or family, or hurt someone in another vehicle as a result of break failure.

Thank you, everyone, for your input. I really appreciate it. Its like a little family here, everybody helping everybody. If there is anything else, no matter how simple or mundane, please let me know. Thanks.

 

Do not clean your MAF, just to be cleaning it or you could kill it.
as for the coolant flush, do not use Dexcool, go green, replace the t/stat and coolant pressure cap and throw in a bottle of Water Wetter or Purple Ice to enhance the cooling system.
As for your brakes, go for ceramic pads, like the Akebono pads which will last longer stop quicker, make no dust and don't squeak or throw the 3 amigos. Make sure you do a full 2 quart synthetic DOT 4 brake flush when done.
Lastly, you might want to download a free copy of the Rave CD, shop manual, so you have a better idea on how to work on your truck. There is a link to them in my signature section.

 

First make a sketch of your belt route....

The tensioner assembly is rotating against tension to release the belt, not un-screwing. Just sort of lifting up and reducing the arc of contact with the belt. Diffs have drains on bottom and fills on the mid point, see attached pages, this is the level of info you will find in the RAVE, which can answer many questions faster than you can wait for a reply on the forum.

You want to be sure you can open the fill fitting before you start draining.....

Transfer case has a smaller drain on bottom edge, and similar 1/2 inch square drive on side for the fill.

 

If you look at the diffs you will see the fill plug.
If you are in a time crunch take it to your quick lube and have them change the gear oil in both diffs and the transfer case.
Unless it was stored in a climate controlled storage unit everything that had air space will have water in it from condensation collecting from temp changes.

 

I've had the battery on a float charger for a few days, it holds a decent charge, but I will replace it next weekend anyway. Replaced the serpentine belt. Probably the easiest thing to replace on this vehicle. I see how the tensioner rotates against the tension. Also had the gurgling noise in my heater after flushing the coolant and replacing. I tried the "engine running" bleed method to no avail. This morning I tried the "cold engine" method that Mike tells people to use, worked fine. No gurgling any more, heat runs great. So far, everything seems to be in fine working order, except at cold start, the truck does not want to idle correctly. It idles really low, almost close to stalling out, but once I rev it a little, it idles fine, and once you drive it a bit, it starts up fine while the engine is warm. I cleaned out the TB, and that operates fine. Any suggestions? Bad gas? Leaking vacuum line? Clogged intake?