I have two questions and thought I would just post them together and see what is said. I replaced my bank 1 Knock sensor about a month ago and the codes have come back. I don't have the specific numbers in front of me but there were two, one saying knock sensor bank 1 and the other was a general evap code. I cleared the codes once after I changed the sensor and drove for a while but they popped back up yesterday. My first thought is that maybe I didn't clean the mating surfaces good enough but they really didn't look dirty. Any thoughts on this would be great because I didn't think knock sensors went out very often. (btw: I used a bosch from Advanced Auto that looked exactly like the one I took out)
Second question: I was converting to coils this past weekend and found that the nuts welded on the back of the bottom bracket were not tapped. I couldn't use the bolts provided for this reason so I got some that would fit through the untapped nut and used some locking washers and nuts on the back. The reason I ask is I am planning on going to OMEs at some point and was wondering if my current bolt setup will work... If not I guess I need to know how to "tap the nuts" (sounds dirty...) I don't remember the size of the bolt I got but it was one size under the standard bolts that came with it and I got the highest grade that they had at the auto parts store. Thanks for reading this if you made it this far and hopefully someone can shed some light onto this.

 

Get the codes read, we can't help you this way.
Chances are the knocker sensor wasn't bad in the first place, what codes did you have the first time around?

 

If you really need specific numbers these are the two P0327 and P0440 thanks

 

p0327 means "Knock sensor 1 circuit low input" which means that your vehicle is'nt getting a reading from your driver's side knock sensor. I had the SAME exact code on my vehicle. I later found out that it had come unplugged from the Knock Sensor. Check your wiring to make sure that they haven't been pinched off somewhere. If i remember correctly, they should be tightened to 16 ft/lbs.

 

Yeah the connection looked and felt good. There didn't appear to be anything wrong with the wiring but I didn't follow it all the way up.

 

check for proper resistance on the wires. chances are its stretched. 440 is a purge valve code.

and the rear requires self tapping bolts. use a little oil and cut them and you are fine.

 

Alrighty so it would seem that you all think it is the wiring. I will check it thouroughly and get back to you all.

 

It can easily be the wiring and or the new sensor, get a good signal and read the signals from both knock sensors and see what you find.

 

No advice to offer, but I would be interested in the part number.

 

I will look and see if I still have the box. I just went to the counter at advance auto and they found exactly what I needed. I still haven't figured out what is going on with it but I have had some other issues crop up that I am trying to sort out at the moment...