Guys thank you for the responses. Your help pointed me in the right direction.

Ok, so the proper wire is RG174 with a seven strand core. This is a picture of the spec sheet. The cable is 3/32" in diameter. Not your typical coaxial cable. This cost me about $5 per meter. I bought 3 a meter length. The distribution co. was https://www.digikey.com. Search for RG 174 from Fairview Microwave once you get into Digikey's website. I will be splicing this around Oct. 5-6. I will post pictures of the process.

 

FWIW that knock sensor on D1 GEMS engines is shrouded by a pretty substantial metal heat shield to protect from the exhaust header and downpipe. Maybe some shielding will help protect the new cable.

 

Ok! I believe I have successfully spliced and repaired the Knock sensor wiring and path. Notice the size of the RG 174 cable and source of purchase from the package. I overlapped the shielded splice with a section of shield from a standard RG Coaxial cable to insure the shield is uninterrupted. All joints were soldered and shrink wrapped.

 

Good job!! codes gone?

 

Knock sensor codes are gone! I still have the rough idle implausible code, which has to do with the ABS sensors at the wheels. I will tackle that next.

 

Well this thread was a nice find with the cable details.

Thank You.

I just replaced my bank 1 knock sensor and did not get rid of the signal low error code.
Looked at the cable and it had some old repair and I unfortunately had to make a new "botch" repair to it, so I can have the car driving without the error, being my daily.

The shielding braid was just so fragile I couldn't get it taken apart and reconnected properly and just had to twist the old end on the cable and taped over, should do for a while.

Where does the other end of the cable go?
I was wondering if I would replace the whole lenght of the cable when I get to it in the summer..

Before, no connection


After, some connection