No Nut still intact. Got home late didn't get back to it yet. shouldn't have to remove it , I don't think?????

 

one would think in order to get the hub off the axle, you would have to remove the hub locking nut.
but I have not replaced my DII hubs yet, so it is quite possible I could be wrong.

 

If your just replacing the O'ring you do not need to remove the HUB.

 

But if the hub is rusted onto the knuckle it might be easier to remove the hub using a 3 Jaw Hub/Bearing removal tool -- can get from Autozone/Advance/etc for free, just make sure the threads are in good condition before leaving the store. My first attempt with the tool did not work due to worn out threads. Harbor Freight sells this -- I got from Advance for free to use -- http://www.harborfreight.com/8-three...ler-69224.html

I just replaced my hub two weeks ago -- getting the hub to break free from 13 years of rust was not easy but once it was off getting the axle out is easy.

UK

 

What O-ring?
Im replacing the seal around the axle where it fits on the long axle that goes to the diff. There is diff oil coming out behind the CV joint.I don't think that is an o-ring But I havent seen it yet either

 

I thought i might need a puller. may try that as soon as I can get back too it.
Go Cats

 

If you are just replacing the axel seal you don't need to separate the axle from the hub because you need to pull both to access the seal.
but the 3 jaw puller won't work without removing the axle nut.
I was lucky because my hubs just banged loose with a hard rubber mallet.
Good luck

 

I am hoping to "bang"mine out without taking the Nut off the short axle. But if i have to use a puller then I will and re-grease or replace the hub and CV, I really hope to avoid that.
It's 92 f in the garage probably wont get to it till this weekend. until then Im going to keep soaking it with penetrating oil. Maybe I get some Kentucky Jelly and put on it

 

I finally got back to working on the seal. It was bad. I had to use a BFH to get the axle out. It was either going to come out or break. It finally came out. (220000 miles later) The only problem I had was getting the seal to seat. I tried several things and it kept popping out. I destroyed one after a bad round of frustration.
Went to Auto Parts and and borrowed a seal putter inner tool. Made a jack from a piece of threaded rod nuts washers and piece of oak floor to jack it in to the race. Really had had to tighten it very tight to get it to seat. Put RTV on the outer race before inserting and grease on the inner race. Put it back together and all is well once again. The hub bearing was good The CV and Ball joints were good.
I took a few pics that i will post later.. Glad it's done. Big Hammer is important in removal of the assembly.