Lets team up to do a head gaslet job on our trucks!
#11
#12
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Find a parking lot and get to it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover
#13
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I have to say that I too was paranoid to do a head gasket job for the first time, but its actually pretty straight forward.
I had a local mechanic help me on the first one I did and he shared a few techniques.
1) He was completely neurotic about cleaning every bolt and adjacent hole with brake parts cleaner, then blowing it out with an air hose.
2) He used Valvoline "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" molly fortified grease for the head bolts.
3) He added a super thin layer of "hylomar" gasket maker at the water passages on the block to heads and heads to intake. Says he learned it from an old school machinists who does a lot of TVR race motors.
4) Use blue lock tight on every bolt that is on the inside of the motor, except head bolts. You don't want something coming loose in there.
5) "Right stuff" on the valve covers, both sides of the gasket.
But I do like JFALL's parking lot style!
I had a local mechanic help me on the first one I did and he shared a few techniques.
1) He was completely neurotic about cleaning every bolt and adjacent hole with brake parts cleaner, then blowing it out with an air hose.
2) He used Valvoline "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" molly fortified grease for the head bolts.
3) He added a super thin layer of "hylomar" gasket maker at the water passages on the block to heads and heads to intake. Says he learned it from an old school machinists who does a lot of TVR race motors.
4) Use blue lock tight on every bolt that is on the inside of the motor, except head bolts. You don't want something coming loose in there.
5) "Right stuff" on the valve covers, both sides of the gasket.
But I do like JFALL's parking lot style!
#14
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YES, you must un-torque heads in the opposite direction that you install them.
This is were everyone goes wrongs and break sockets, and scream and yell that they cant get the rear head bolts out, Because they should be the first to come out. otherwise you have all the pressure of the first 6 bolts, now on the two that are left.
also a 5/8 6 point shallow impact socket is what is really need to break the bolts free, off shore shining chrome sockets will just break.
This is were everyone goes wrongs and break sockets, and scream and yell that they cant get the rear head bolts out, Because they should be the first to come out. otherwise you have all the pressure of the first 6 bolts, now on the two that are left.
also a 5/8 6 point shallow impact socket is what is really need to break the bolts free, off shore shining chrome sockets will just break.
Last edited by drowssap; 12-18-2014 at 07:30 AM.
#15
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Looks like me and your mechanic friend have similar complexes!
1) He was completely neurotic about cleaning every bolt and adjacent hole with brake parts cleaner, then blowing it out with an air hose.
2) He used Valvoline "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" molly fortified grease for the head bolts. I used ARP Ultra Lube under the Stud washers/nuts. NOT ON THE Block THREADS.
3) He added a super thin layer of "hylomar" gasket maker at the water passages on the block to heads and heads to intake. Says he learned it from an old school machinists who does a lot of TVR race motors.
4) Use blue lock tight on every bolt that is on the inside of the motor, except head bolts. You don't want something coming loose in there.
5) "Right stuff" on the valve covers, both sides of the gasket.
These were my best friend.
1/2" Drive 5/8" wobble (Impact Drive if you can find them, if not the standards strength are sufficient)
1) He was completely neurotic about cleaning every bolt and adjacent hole with brake parts cleaner, then blowing it out with an air hose.
2) He used Valvoline "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" molly fortified grease for the head bolts. I used ARP Ultra Lube under the Stud washers/nuts. NOT ON THE Block THREADS.
3) He added a super thin layer of "hylomar" gasket maker at the water passages on the block to heads and heads to intake. Says he learned it from an old school machinists who does a lot of TVR race motors.
4) Use blue lock tight on every bolt that is on the inside of the motor, except head bolts. You don't want something coming loose in there.
5) "Right stuff" on the valve covers, both sides of the gasket.
1/2" Drive 5/8" wobble (Impact Drive if you can find them, if not the standards strength are sufficient)
![](http://www.armstrongtools.com/MagentoShare/media/catalog/product/cache/5/image/1200x1200/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/A/R/ARM_15-590_FRNT_MAIN.jpg)
Last edited by coors; 12-18-2014 at 07:25 AM.
#16
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Find a parking lot and get to it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover
#17
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Right. I glossed over all of the states and missing NY in there.
I don't really have a garage, I have a single bay I work out of, but that works for my stuff most of the time. Nothing fun like two post lifts or anything, just some Rhino Ramps & hand tools. It's also unheated, which is why I try to keep my serious projects waiting until spring/summer/fall.
The motor I ripped apart to do a head gasket job on was in rough shape, so I knew I'd have to bring it to a machinist. I guess they should be done even on a non-overheated motor. I have the address of the shop that rebuilds some of the motors for Atlantic British, so I was just assuming they would have the expertise to measure/machine.
If you're serious, let me know when you get closer to doing it.
![Embarrassment](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/r8fZzl5.png)
The motor I ripped apart to do a head gasket job on was in rough shape, so I knew I'd have to bring it to a machinist. I guess they should be done even on a non-overheated motor. I have the address of the shop that rebuilds some of the motors for Atlantic British, so I was just assuming they would have the expertise to measure/machine.
If you're serious, let me know when you get closer to doing it.
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