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Lifting 2" with SLS

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 07:35 AM
  #11  
acamato's Avatar
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From: St. James, NY
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You shouldn't need to remove the driveshaft, the driveshaft is not limiting articulation, the sway bar is. Some have disconnected the swaybar and put the bottle jack btween the axle tube and chassis.
My DII has ACE and I did not need to disconnect the swaybay. I used a bottle jack and had enough room to remove the spring without a compressor.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #12  
CBRacerX's Avatar
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From: New Hope, PA
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Originally Posted by acamato
You shouldn't need to remove the driveshaft, the driveshaft is not limiting articulation, the sway bar is. Some have disconnected the swaybar and put the bottle jack btween the axle tube and chassis.
My DII has ACE and I did not need to disconnect the swaybay. I used a bottle jack and had enough room to remove the spring without a compressor.
I beg to differ. I had my swaybar disconnected at both ends (one would have been enough) and the front driveshaft absolutely interferes with the crossmember once you try and get the axle low enough to install the spring. I wish it wasn't so - but that's the way it is
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 08:28 AM
  #13  
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During my install, the driveshaft did come in contact with the cross member. However, placing the bottle jack between the axle and the frame allowed the driveshaft to serve as a pivot point for the axle. I carefully used the bottle jack to lower each side. It really doesn't put too much stress on the drive shaft, it just sort of pivots around it on the cross member.

I performed this with both front wheels off, which minimizes the amount of force that you are placing on the driveshaft/crossmember when using the jack.

I didn't have to remove my crossmember to complete the spring install.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 09:19 AM
  #14  
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From: New Hope, PA
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Originally Posted by TripleThreat
During my install, the driveshaft did come in contact with the cross member. However, placing the bottle jack between the axle and the frame allowed the driveshaft to serve as a pivot point for the axle. I carefully used the bottle jack to lower each side. It really doesn't put too much stress on the drive shaft, it just sort of pivots around it on the cross member.

I performed this with both front wheels off, which minimizes the amount of force that you are placing on the driveshaft/crossmember when using the jack.

I didn't have to remove my crossmember to complete the spring install.
One way this might be easier would be to remove the springs and sway bars from both sides, then install the passenger side spring first. I did the opposite and that may have made the drivers side too stiff to allow the axle to pivot enough to install the spring.

If I did it again, I would try the above sequence.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:59 AM
  #15  
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I did the passenger side spring first...

I have the ACE package and did not have to disconnect the sway bar.
 
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