Little bit of help needed if you can
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Winching
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 579
Likes: 8
Beat the hell out of it. Lol.. I'm so used to mechanical mercy.. this should be different. I'll give it a shot. Gonna drive it to work tomorrow and Flog it on the highway a bit. I'll see if I can get the MPG to read negative... hahahahaha
Mudding
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 164
Likes: 5
Did you open the bleed valve to let air out? Per the RAVE, you detach the coolant expansion tank and raise it 8 inches (it pops out, no screws), the pull the upper radiator hose out of the guides on top of the rad, then open the little black plastic bleed valve at the junction front and center. Close the valve when water comes out and put everything back.
Also, consider the fact that there may be a blockage or water pump problem. Remember, the D2 is pretty much the only car ever that doesn't have a thermostat. It is a coolant bypass / relief valve that opens on pressure, not temperature. This is why the D2 has such large temperature swings, the "thermostat" isn't controlling temperature, it is controlling pump backpressure. There's a reason no one else copied this design and LR never tried it again.
Also, consider the fact that there may be a blockage or water pump problem. Remember, the D2 is pretty much the only car ever that doesn't have a thermostat. It is a coolant bypass / relief valve that opens on pressure, not temperature. This is why the D2 has such large temperature swings, the "thermostat" isn't controlling temperature, it is controlling pump backpressure. There's a reason no one else copied this design and LR never tried it again.
Last edited by evoblade; Dec 11, 2015 at 07:14 AM.
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 579
Likes: 8
Lol... I'm no stranger to the RAVE bleed process. Blockage has crossed my mind. If I go by what I see... there is flow, the stupid pressure cap IS leaking.. as usual. Maybe that is a sign of something else. If I buy another cap, it will be the second one I have bought. All of them wind up being junky MotoRad caps.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 189
From: Coastal Georgia
As soon as I hit a damn stoplight temps begin to rise.
After fixing a coolant leak, filling and bleeding per manual my idle temps would sometimes be +15 or a bit higher somtimes kicking off the electric fan at idle.
Drove 30-50 miles per day, each morning for a week or so while stone cold I removed bleed screw and topped off via the bleed fitting using a small funnel. First morning may have added 8 oz and amount decreased each day until air fully displaced by coolant. It did take a week of a few minutes per day but didn't need to keep removing reservoir, wasting coolant flowing out of bleed and making a mess. Low speed/idle temp rise gradually settle to acceptable level. May help doing the same?
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Last edited by number9; Dec 12, 2015 at 11:36 AM. Reason: delete sentance
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 579
Likes: 8
It may have hit 201.. was busy watching traffic for an opening.
It is confusing to me about the temps, especially with that stat in it. The only parts of the cooling system that I have not replaced are the heater core, and pressure tank.
It is confusing to me about the temps, especially with that stat in it. The only parts of the cooling system that I have not replaced are the heater core, and pressure tank.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,935
Likes: 189
From: Coastal Georgia
It may have hit 201.. was busy watching traffic for an opening.
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Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 579
Likes: 8
I'd love to.. if it didn't begin meltdown at idle. That alone means there is something wrong. I have a difficult time with that. Basically I can live with bad lock actuators. Not erratic temps. Lol