Have been a voracious reader of the boards since buying a 2000 Disco 2 about 2 weeks ago, and got busy this weekend. Changed the plugs- nothing remarkable about the old ones, just worn (new wires on order, old ones are STI), changed the oil (brownish/reddish thick, yucky), put on the 180T-Stat (now have that damned waterfall in the dash), new front prop shaft (from Lucky8- Eric from there was great with getting me the right parts and on-time, kudos), and did some electrical triage with the battery and starter cables (temporary fix, need to install connector better). The Ultragauge is on order, so no codes yet, but I have a big, bright HDC light on constantly, and weak/intermittent ABS and TC lights to round out those 3 amigos. Thanks for all the info and write-ups, it's made LR ownership much less scary (for now), and mechanical fixes much more do-able. now about those 3 amigos...

 

I've bled my system to death after replacing the t-stat and I still get the waterfall sound. Seems most noticeable when cold. However my ultra gauge show good temps so it doesn't necessarily mean you're going to have issues from it.

 

Waterfall: Follow the bleeding procedure carefully and exactly. When it says to raise the overflow tank as high as it will go, remove it from its clips and do so. Make sure you have the HVAC on too. fully circulate the coolant then re-elevate the tank and bleed again.

Continue until waterfall stops. Unless of course you've had the waterfall before the T-stat change.

 

If you haven't taken the thing out for decent trip one the highway you may still have air trapped in there. The bleeding procedure can't fill the heater core because the top of it is above the outlet. As for having the heat on, you don't need to do that anymore because there is always full flow through the heater core at all times. Cars used to have a valve that shut off coolant flow but that trashed the aluminum heater cores so now they use blend doors to control air flow.

Did you back flush the heater core? There might be a partial blockage.

 

thanks for the replies. I've been following the discomike recommended bleed procedure- take off bleed screw, take off tank cap, fill, seal it up...I don't remember seeing anything about letting the engine run while doing it. am I doing this correctly? any help/suggestions appreciated...

 

Did you take the overflow tank out of its location and lift it physically as high as it will go or not?

 

You are correct that the engine need not be running. I usually bleed, drive a day, bleed again and that gets it. A steep incline helps or ramps to raise the front. Also messaging the hoses, while bleeding, helps push up any trapped bubbles. (Not rubbing...squeezing)

 

yeah, I've been elevating the bottle. although the hose is kinda short and it don't raise too high. and yeah, I've been squeezing the hoses too. did not have the chance to do it this morning, but will continue for another couple of days. as always, thanks guys...