Give a little more details here. I thought these pumps were not really DIY rebuildable. a you just unscrew the front and back halves and use some sort gasket material? What is gray "stiff" silicon?

 

Hey spike...I do believe the power steering pump is on its way out. I have changed the fluid twice and the second time I added a little lucas power steering oil. Its still howling like crazy. So, I have a couple questions I was hoping you could answer.

The howling is coming from what I believe to be the power steering pump. If I want to change this out, what part do I order? I checked out the schematics listed here:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-404-steering.aspx
and im not sure which part im looking at. Is this a bad pic or what? Im pretty sure its not part#15, but I don't know.

Also, what's the replacement of the pump like? What am I getting into? Looking at a Discovery II power steering pump online, it just looks like a drain, pull, refill type job. I don't know though as I haven't really attempted to crawl under there and check it out yet.

Also, this question may be a little dumb, but Im going to ask it as I have no shame. The fluid came out yellowish again when I pumped it out. Is there a possibility of cross contamination between fluids somewhere? Im pretty sure theres not, but I find the yellowish power steering fluid really odd. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

OOOh yea...does anyone know why the reservoir is split? Almost every time I go out to start it I check the fluid level. The reservoir in the rear is darker in color than the front reservoir. Does anyone understand the purpose of the split reservoirs? Thanks..

 

You need part number 17 in the diagram, that is your pump.
Yellowish power steering fluid means that there is air in the system, the P/S fluid is frothy from the pump sucking air and mixing it with the air like a blender.
The reservoir is split because you have ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement), that is a hydrolic system to help control body roll in hard cornering.

Get a used pump from here.
www.roverlandparts.com, a new pump will put you into the poor house.
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...covery-ii.aspx
http://www.roverlandparts.com/1999-2...eringpump.aspx
Also check www.autosportsunlimited.com and www.car-part.com

 

Even the non Ace model have a split in the tank, no idea why though. There is no "fluid cross contamination" your new fluid is just mixing with the old fluid in the lines and pump. You did not do a drain just a flush so there is a lot of old fluid.

the hardest part about changing out the pump is getting the viscous fan off everything else is simple.

 

I would imagine just because it is cheaper to have one tank and not 2 made.

 

I have the same problem and cannot tell if it is the inlet tube under the pump or the gasket between housing pump. i would bet gasket, i know the pump is not dead because it is pumping fluid and air back to reservoir . i added lucas stop leak and filled up res., jacked wheels up and turned wheel lock to lock but still noisy and leaking. How long before stop leak kicks?

 

DII pumps suck, the gasket or the seal around the shaft leaks. I have not had luck with any PAS leak stop but you should give it a couple weeks. Well the Lucas if it is going to work will work fast because it is a thickener, the seal swellers like White Shepherds will take a little while.

 

also could not tell if it was the hose or the pump becauseit is so close to the top on the inlet pipe. i believe it is the gasket though. I added the stop leak and filled reservoir. Even jacked wheel up and turned wheel lock to lock . The power steering is intermitant and noisy. Howlong before the lucas kicks before i know if i need to buy a new pump, or should i just get one asap---

 

I could spend 500 at rover connection or 200 for a oem at autozone --what would you do

 

The Lucas should be fast acting as it is a thickener. Also go to advanced auto and get some white shepherds stop leak and try that.