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Lr disco 2 how i fixed the overheating issue

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #51  
David Slack's Avatar
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From: San Diego area
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This is an elegant solution. As I just started hearing that gurgling sound and seemingly random run-up of the engine temperature, this is a timely post for me.

Also, has anyone tried simply removing the plastic ball from the whole at the top of the TS? I was thinking of doing that but worried it might somehow inhibit proper TS function.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #52  
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Default Overheating POS

Originally Posted by Flyin2jz
I understand people wanting to do the fix right. I'm going on 4 months now without any overheating at all. The truck runs at the normal operating temps even at 90degrees outside. Even if u have a bunch of money wrapped up n your truck you have to realize they aren't worth much at this stage of their lives. A rational person can't put 1500 bux in a fix if u can't do the hg repair yourself. Especially when a nice decent mileage truck is worth 5k tops. That would simply make you stupid not a do it right type guy. I simply posted this up to allow people like myself that know they aren't worth that much to enjoy their truck. I love my disco 2. So please don't think I'm bashing them. I just know what my trucks worth and what's a justified amount to put into it. Cheers guys.

flyin can we get those pics, I look like I am in the same boat as the others because of poorly made vehicle. Damn British Engineers are funny. Must be taking too many tea breaks and not paying attention to their freakin jobs. I have had 3 of the obvious problems with this POS. Grease fittings on the front prop shaft, had to remove and drive with rear prop shaft till I could cough up the $400 buck for a new one. The brittle heater lines going from the TB heater plate and the one to the radiator , how stupid can you be to use plastic in a high pressure system like that, why not rubber or copper? And now the newest problem which really isn't new because I have had cooling problems since I bought this thing but now it is building up too much pressure in the hose going from the t stat , the 4 hosed one. Already blew 2 hoses and now I am fully aware now that it is a pressure problem coming from somewhere, when I bought it it had already had a gasket job done on it along with other cooling system fixes as well. So, I am stumped, when she comes back from the shop for having it diagnosed and if they give me this $1500 song, I wanna try this t stat mod so if you can , please send over some pics.

thanks,

DSII 197,000 miles
replaced front prop shaft
new coolant recovery tank
modified TB heater hose and radiator hose
New Alternator
replaced TB heater plate kit (2 x)
Replace Serpentine belt
all of the scheduled maintenance including the transfer gear box oil fill up
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #53  
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #54  
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From: Elizabeth City, NC
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This is not a mod nor is it an elegant solution this is plain old backyard shadetree rigging. It is your truck do what you want but call it what it is. This is not an advisable long term solution for your overheating problem. This is more of a limp home type of fix, such as using a pair of panty hose for a v-belt back when cars had those. This is rigging not fixing. It's expensive to be cheap.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #55  
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WASUP I HAVE MY DISCO OVERHEATING I CHANGED THE SPARK PLUG WIRES AS THEY WERE DAMAGED AND GAVE IT A FLUSH , I CHANGED THE TSTAT AND STILL THE TRUCK WAS OVERHEATING AFTER TEST DRIVING IT , THE COLLANT WAS COMING OUT THE RES. I TOOK OUT THE TSTAT AND PUT A BOLT INSIDE TO LEAVE THE TSTAT OPEN ALL THE TIME NOw IT DRIVES COOL. BELOW IS A PIC OF HOW THE TEMP STAY AFTER IT BEEN DRIVING FOR AN HOUR,, IS THAT TEMP NORMAL? I KNOW IM LOOSING PRESSURE BECUSE OF THE RES CAP BEING OLD AND WORN OUT, ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY A GOOD CAP FROM?






 

Last edited by sito007; Aug 12, 2010 at 06:49 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #56  
vandev's Avatar
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Default you are kidding right?


Do you actually think that you can solve a heating problem on a $40,000.00 truck with a screw or any snake oil treatment.....??? You cant, you are buying time.... The only way to fix the overheating problem on this POS engine.....for good is this...pull your engine and re sleeve it with flanged liners..... Thats it..or run it off a cliff and get your insurance money... if you have a overheating issue on your truck you will always have one untill you kill the cancer.... believe me i have tried all the lame *** fixes and they only buy time....go fix it and get on with your life....i assume you much better things to do than trying fix something that came new ...broke already...
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 01:51 PM
  #57  
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after driving the truck for week it went bad again. the dam engine light is blinking and the engine is trembling . went to a land rover specialist and told me i have to rebuild the head and gaskets $1300 with labor. im going to tell him the change my belt and replace the timing chain aswell, should i get the waterpump replaced aslo??
 
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #58  
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Default good idea

Originally Posted by sito007
after driving the truck for week it went bad again. the dam engine light is blinking and the engine is trembling . went to a land rover specialist and told me i have to rebuild the head and gaskets $1300 with labor. im going to tell him the change my belt and replace the timing chain aswell, should i get the waterpump replaced aslo??
Thats a pretty good price...you should think of doing it yourself and save about $1,000.00.... its not hard....if you change the timing belt change the sprocket also..and yes water pump and hoses... i would have your raditor checked as LR raditors dont last 10 years...they just dont....get it rebuit , checked or get a new one...
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by vandev
Thats a pretty good price...you should think of doing it yourself and save about $1,000.00.... its not hard....if you change the timing belt change the sprocket also..and yes water pump and hoses... i would have your raditor checked as LR raditors dont last 10 years...they just dont....get it rebuit , checked or get a new one...

how do i go about doing this myself? what do i need to get the job done right?? do i get the heads done by a machine shop or shop i buy them from britsh atlantic?? thanks for your hep
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #60  
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Default k..

Originally Posted by sito007
how do i go about doing this myself? what do i need to get the job done right?? do i get the heads done by a machine shop or shop i buy them from britsh atlantic?? thanks for your hep

i pulled my entire engine out of my truck and completly dissembled it to the bare block with a husky socket set my wife gave me 6 years ago for christmas. You will need a few metric sockets you can buy at the auto zone. You dont need to pull the moter to do the heads. download the rave and go over it. when you pull the heads you take them to a machine shop and give them new valve seats. It should cost arounf $190.00 for both heads rebuilt. The gasket set from AB is $179.00 for everything you need. get new thermostat and waterpump as the waterpump is only $99.00. How many miles on the truck? you could also do the oil pan gasket and check the timing chain while you are at it. Mine was streached way out. I look at it ..if you are going to pull the heads you might as well check, timing chain, oil sump, cam, lifters, push rods and rockers while you have everything off. But thats me....

Let us know and we can help you, Chris
 
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